In there any disadvantage to the long cage version, other than a bit of bulk?

I'm still torn on gearing. The 10-50t range with a 40t crank gives a great range, but I'm not sure about the 10t cog.

There's also a SRAM 12 spped, 11-44t available, bit narrower range mainly on the high end (11t), but the gaps are a bit smaller too, in the important flat ground 25-35km/h range.

Will the 10-50t be more fiddly and hard to calibrate? Any advice or thoughts? I'm a fairly fast rider but I do want to hang on to a low gear below 1:1 ratio for steep climbs. 40 front 44 back is about as high as I want there. 

Ah, right. Boost is MTB axle, not bottom bracket. I got it mixed up with Sram dub wide. Disregard that point or swap DUB wide for boost.

So if someone makes a boost gravel frame, better to use boost wheels, rather than standard road / gravel wheels and adapters. Right.

650b is not the answer. They have their place but it is not the same category of bike for someone trying to hop on board with the current trend at the pointy end of racing.

Sure it is. He didn't say he was racing, just that he wants big tires. My answer is you're not going to get 700c 60+mm tires on what meets most current definitions of a gravel bike, and especially not here on the forum where we discuss general use framesets available online direct. In fact those tires aren't even on sale at all as 700c x 60, they're instead sold as MTB 29er, for a reason.

If you want to buy a 'gravel bike' and fit 2.1 or 2.2" or so, your best bet is 650b / 27.5.

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/650b-vs-700c-for-gravel

The rolling diameter is similar so it's not that big of a deal.

He obviously meant the 3T Extrema, but there are tons of other gravel bikes with >50mm clearance. Among the cheaper frames, Peak Torque managed to fit 2.35" Hans Dampf front and Racing Ralph rear on his Yoeleo G21.

The 3T Extrema uses Sram dub wide. More of a one-off frame. Maybe a similar frame could be made by Chinese manufacturers, but it's basically introducing a whole new bike category between gravel and mountain bike. Buying parts would be frustrating since "gravel crankset" and the thousands of results, don't fit.

The Yoeleo G21 only clears 53mm tires and has interference issues between chainrings and the frame, leading to buyer frustration. I did a quick search for Peak Torque, good channel, and when he tried to fit his crankset on and it didn't fit, he called the frame "dogshit". Yes he came around to liking it, after getting it to work.

Gravel bikes are based on road bikes, so 700c tires will max out around 50mm. There's a whole question whether we should all support more one-offs like Sram Dub Wide, to give us more preceisely what we want, or stick to established standards.

It's an interesting discussion because rather than Sram Dub Wide, mountain bikes are just a bit wider than gravel, so are a good component set, and actually cheaper than gravel parts. So what we want is mtb frames to adopt a more traditional triangle shape and rider position used by gravel bikes. Which is what the Salsa Cutthroat does, and a lot of steel touring bikes too.

While that is nice, for most gravel bikes, manufacturers have been keeping gravel bikes frames oriented to gravel bike parts, on the basis that they both fall under 'road' category. Paved road and gravel road. But also, sticking to road standards is sneaky as parts cost more and make more profit. For example, the invention of GRX. Or how gravel bikes don't use post mount brakes, when they worked fine. But requiring new 'gravel and road' flat mount, allows Shimano and others to use the exact same parts but charge more money, for a smaller niche market. More profit, for awhile, until the Aliexpress companies catch up and make parts that are just as good for less money.

That said, I could have been more polite, true @serge_K. Sorry. If you want to run wide tires, get one of these frames that clear 50mm, and fit a set of 650b wheels. Then pay attention to tire size and research some wider tires in the 2.2-2.4" range that are a bit taller than wide, and you're good to go. The bikes look awesome configured this way too.

Help with gearing?

I'm confused by Wheeltop saying minimum cog "10-11t". Does that mean 10t may have issues? Anyone with specific experience?

I'd like to get the additional occasional speed of 10t based on my browing of gear calculator. The 10t-45t shimano cassettes look good to me (even though I need microspline wheels), or there are 10-46t XD cassettes.

Better to be safe and stick with 11t?

I've researched this and came up mostly empty.

Every single link in the Bikepacking.com article about bikepacking wheels is now dead. Road and gravel wheels seem almost exclusively 24h rear, and typically 20h front though at least there are 24h front available.

However I found Light Bicycle, available in the US and Canada I believe, who offers custum wheel-builds with the Industry Nine 1/1 hub, which has 28h rear as an option. Price is still lower than western brands.

Looks like Light Bicycle, or put up with 24h/24h from other brands.

I've been comparing a lot of geometries, and seeing this one is super relaxed it's likely a good fit for me.

Me too - I have zero flexibility and a seperate road bike, so relaxed fit makes sense.

I have this frame and bought it for similar fit reasons.  It isn't THAT crazily high stack in reality. 

I see your photo has external handlebar routing while @hugo has set his up semi-integrated. I don't mind either actually, but is yours a slightly earlier puchase? Any thoughts?

@hugo looks like L-TWOO and 140mm brakes, yeah? Might ask for the 160mm adapter.

Which T47 bottom bracket did you buy?