I'm glad I picked up an upgraded carbon gravel and road frame during the 11.11/BF sale. Good luck finding affordable carbon framesets now. Wear items like chains, cassettes and tires I use non-Chinese components so that should be fine. Wheeltop and LTwoo electronic groupsets won't be as lucrative from a cost perspective. SRAM will be the big winner in this. 

or possibly microshift sword black since it's closest to the budget ltwoo/sensah parts that doubled in price for US.

yes, it'll compatible with whatever sram 3-bolt chainrings you find. they also make a 110bcd spider you could use w/older chainrings.
it's got an odd spindle length for a road crank - I had to space it out w/shims to 73mm I think.

I have been wanting a full suspension frame to upgrade my hard tail but I am holding on the purchase because I think the prices will drop in the coming month and I am not really in a rush as I am in love with my current mtb. I will probably end up doing a full build and bring the HT to France to ride when I am there…

Having just recently done a ride on a borrowed full-sus ride in AZ I would encourage you to shift more focus/$ to components and less on the frame. current "entry-level" frame from Kona was plenty stiff and a nice well-dialed in shock made all the difference. I was pleasantly surprised.

I have pretty nasty Raynaud's syndrome so Pogies are pretty much mandatory for me if it is much below 40F.   I often stuff an XL adhesive "hot hands" pouch in each one as well.  The combo of a thinner glove + pogies + the hot hands packet works better than any one glove i've come across aside from obnoxious ski gloves.    I may try some heated grip elements on my MTB grips this year or grab some heated gloves for road&mtb.

the one big disadvantage of hot hands as you know is they require oxygen, so once you get them going/saturated and throw them inside a neoprene overboot they poop out and don't last nearly as long as something electric. it's more of an emergency item, not a sustainable solution for long rides.

I'm starting lean towards 3 bolt direct mount cranksets with 2 pinch bolt non-drive crank arms. They have both chainring/power meter flexibility, while being compatible with different size bottom brackets.

Like for example T47 has several variations with 68mm external cups, 86.5mm internal cups, and 78-79mm internal/external cups for bottom brackets! That's not including variations in 24mm/29mm/30mm spindle diameters. I guess the actual interface is now standardized, but under that standard are a plethora of different sizes.

yes, I prefer the Shimano pinch-bolt/axle pre-load cap arrangement as well b/c you're not stressing that cap threads much. The interface that Evosid selected (can't tell if it's legacy FSA or maybe an earlier version of the current Rotor axle) invites you to strip out or break off the hollow bolt b/c you have no idea when you hit the end of the splined section. At least SRAM had it tapered in the same way that square taper works. Not having any torque settings listed isn't helpful, either.

Can someone help me for the right DT Swiss Freehub XDR Body for this hub? And should i also change some other parts on the rear hub like Bearings or the spring or the ratched system?


https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004904398758.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.337.95615c5fDrduz1&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

KOCEVLO Stern Ratsche Straße DISC Bremse Straightpull Hub 100x1 2/142x12mm 24 loch Licht 270g straße 60T Ratsche Naben ENDURO

Would be great if someone can help me or has experience with this rear hub.

I bought j-spoke kocevlos as well and honestly regret it now - they don't even have model numbers listed. There's a post above that has a link for replacement end-caps and drivers for goldix hubs which kind of look equivalent, but you have to really look at the drawings and dimensions for your hub body to have at least some confidence prior to purchasing.

had the same thing happen to me - had to grease both axle bolts and re-torque them. it sounds like they're going to snap.
didn't even think of the DS bolt initially b/c I'm so used to bonded Shimano and Sram cranks, then i was like "oooh, removable axle, how cool"