I attempted the no-bleed method, cut the hose just below the olive/pin because i could not get it off - which then led me to lose a bit of oil.  So, I'll go ahead and pick up a bleed kit and end up doing things the "correct" way after all.  But it was worth a shot.

Frame looks real sweet with all the cables routed internally! 

The shaft on my current crank is the correct size.  My previous BB was BSA with 68mm shell width (Niner did this for a couple years on the Air9).  So my issue is finding a solution that can convert PF30 at 68mm shell width that can accommodate a GXP spindle.

Problem Solvers may have . . . err, solved my problem:
http://www.bikewagon.com/problem-solvers-abnormal-46-bottom-bracket-24-22mm-gxp-spindles?CAWELAID=400006350000138451&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=400006350000349065&cadevice=c&gclid=CJzd5aS4i8ACFc1_Mgod5kwANg

Well, shoot...

I assumed 73mm width because I thought the 68mm width was the road standard and 73mm was the MTB standard.

Thanks for the response, guess this BB won't work for me.

@Carbon_Dude - I once tried that very thing when my weight weenie-dom ran full-on into my neurotic desire for optimization (plus Gorilla Tape's expensive!).  Unfortunately, the WTB rims I was using wouldn't set up right.  This proved to be tough even with a standard all-the-way-around gorilla tape rimstrip though, and the extra thickness at the bead provided by the contiguous tape was the only way to get tubeless set up to hold air.  Neither the rim nor the tire were tubeless-specific, however, so I'd like to see a second running of the experiment.  And I just so happen to be in the process of a new build...

Thanks in no small part to this very forum, I've got a IP/FM/MC-036 build in the works.  Parts are still coming in, and some parts are migrating over from my current ride (and therefore can't be pulled until the end of the build - lest I risk being without a mountain bike in the interim).

As mentioned in a separate post, I have a chiner road bike, so I went with what I knew and used the same chendor to purchase this frame.  It arrived the other day, light, well-packaged, looking sweet, and ready to be built up. 

Wheels were off of Pinkbike, e13 hubs laced WTB KOM rims.  Front axle converted to 20mm TA.  Rear axle set at 142x12, but that may have to change because though I thought I was getting the frame with the convertible 135 -> 142 spacing, I measured it and it looks to be 135...  anyone have any insight into how the spacing is converted on these models? I could remove one side of the dropouts but that wouldn't get me 7mm more of spacing, and I can't remove both without losing the derailleur hanger I think...?

Went budget on the rear shock and got a deal on a Rockshox Monarch R.  This may be upgraded down the line for a model with at least lockout.

Went over budget and got an RWC needle bearing (just one) to replace the lower bushing.

New Praxis BB to convert PF30 to SRAM (so I can use my current crankset)

New old stock Rockshox Reba RLT from pinkbike - 20mm TA, 120mm travel

The legacy parts co-opted from my current Niner Air9 (alloy hardtail):
Niner carbon bar at 720mm
Deore XT hydraulic brakes/cables
SRAM L-handed rear shifter (forget model)
SRAM XX crankset
Wolftooth front ring, wide-narrow for 1x set up (36t?)
Shimano cassette (11-34?)
Racing Ralph Snakeskin Evo tires (about 5mo of use, so these will be replaced in the near future)
Crank bros candy pedals
KS dropper post OR Shimano PRO carbon post
Bontrager saddle

Here's a frame pic to get things started, more as things progressed.

Hi all,

First time poster, but I've been harvesting information from the forums for a little while now as I prepare to build my first carbon full suspension bike.

I've previously built up a road chined, and love it.  Lots of miles, solid as a rock.  Though I did opt for the frame that requires a proprietary seat post/clamp (Scott Foil replica) that has posed some minor issues.

Building up this bike will be budget-minded, so I'll be pulling most all parts from my current hardtail.  My current bike has 135mm rear dropouts, so my current wheelset also has this spacing.  I know there are devotees to the new standard, at 142 x12, but I'll need to spread the cost out over time so I'd like to stick with this wheelset for a little while.

My questions to the forum are:
-What feedback can you give about the interchangeable dropout option that allows 135 or 142x12 (a $20 upgrade from ICAN/Miracle vs 135mm)?
-For an XC racer/rider is the difference between the two options tangible?
-Might I just convert my 135 QR to a througbolt and achieve similar gains in terms of stability?
-Any experience with an ICAN/Miracle IP/FM/MC-036? (My road bike was from them and I visited their offices in China last year, so I'm comfortable with the company and assume the frame is more or less identical...)

Thanks!