Any caliper that has a banjo bolt and doesn’t have that obnoxious bleed port of the cheaper Deore M6000 calipers would be recommended. M7000, M8000, M9020 would all work fine. The newer Deore M6100 should work as well as they seam to have moved the bleep port.

I put XTR Race M9100 brakes on mine and while it works fine, a caliper with a banjo bolt would be preferred due to the hose exit hole location on the chainstay. I found a spare XTR M9020 caliper that I forgot I had and that fits perfect so that will be the replacement.

Little hiccup in the build process. Shimano Deore M6000 calipers will not work on the back end. I’ll order up some ZTTO banjo bolt kits and swap the caliper with some XT calipers that’s on another bike.

Looks just like the bxt 056.
I broke mine in xc a forget about warranty.

That doesn't sound like fun! I looked at the BXT one as well. This one has the seat stays quite a bit higher on the seat tube than the BXT frame and the geometry is different as well.

Sorry if this has been asked but i was not able to find it.   what does a basic Ti frame from Waltly cost?  i know this is a loaded question as there is a lot of customizing that can be done but just a run of the mill gravel frame or road frame?  I would really like to go this route but i kind of want to have a ball park before i get going.  Thank you in advance.

$700 to $1000 plus shipping which will be about $200 to the US.

Dropping it off at the shop to get the Phil Wood EBB installed. Luckily my bike building skills are slightly better than my photography skills. 17.4 pounds as pictured, still missing the pedals, crank, chain, and BB.

After a 10 year hiatus from riding, I got back into it in 2011. Grabbed a couple of the lightweight ones shortly thereafter so somewhere in the 10 year range, not sure exactly. Only one I broke was my fault as there wasn’t enough room in the frame to get the bottle out properly. Repaired with some G-Flex epoxy and some fiberglass and it’s on my winter bike now. That’s when I started getting the side load ones for certain bikes. Between my kids, wife, and myself, I’ve bought and sold just a few. But I don’t think any of them have over 1,500 miles of use.

The right chain length and a B-screw well set, are to me what generally makes a smooth shifting, even on an MTB.

I find that most bikes, even from reputable shops, have the B-screw in too far (pulley too far from cassette) and the chain is at least two links too long. Those two adjustments make a significant difference in shifting performance.