Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - lRaphl

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
29er / Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
« on: December 09, 2020, 09:50:09 AM »
Quote from: reddi on December 09, 2020, 07:52:11 AM
I'd highly appreciate reading some experience about the DT Swiss. Preferably with a picture ;)

I can't talk about the R232 or the R535 and also not how they work out on the FM936 but I was using a X313 remote on my old IP-036 and I only have good things to say about it.  In the OPEN mode, it was plush and active. In the DRIVE mode, it was giving great support while staying enough active to smooth out the trail. In LOCK mode, it was totally locked out. So I was using the DRIVE mode on flats and uphill and switching to OPEN mode when going down or on really rough trails. The DT remote was great, I got used to it fast and sometimes I wish it was possible to use it on my new bike. The X313 remote didn't seem to like to be in between modes and I had to make sure the cable was properly setup. When in between, even by not that much, it was making a whistling sound. I guess the 232 and 535 must act the same way and I would make sure the cable pull is right for the shock if you're planning to use another remote than the DT one.

2
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Best sub $400 carbon 29er wheels
« on: December 07, 2020, 08:43:09 AM »
Most vendors will supply the option of HG/XD/Microspline freehubs. In your case, you just ask or select XD and you should be good. Somewhere between 25mm and 30mm of inner width rims should do the trick for the rims. You should also look for at least 28 spokes per wheels and if you're hard on them, then go for 32 spokes for some peace of mind. The low cost carbon wheels will all be using hubs like Bitex, Novatech, Powerway or other chinese brands. They aren't that bad but require more maintenance for sure. Again, for some peace of mind, I would pay a little more and get some DT 350 hubs. If you can go with brass nipples, you should do it. It's a little bit more weight but they won't corrode as fast as aluminum nipples. Sapim and DT anodized aluminum nipples resists a lot better but most chinese wheels comes with Pilar aluminum nipples and those corrode pretty fast. As for hub width, just check for BOOST 12x148 for rear and BOOST 15x110 for front.

I hope this help.

3
29er / Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
« on: November 17, 2020, 09:26:10 AM »
Quote from: helmat on November 17, 2020, 08:43:14 AM
Is there a 42.5mm shock with remote lockout? I can't find one?

Yes, there are some. Like the RS SIDLuxe Ultimate.

https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-sidl-ult-a1

4
29er / Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
« on: November 06, 2020, 09:02:00 AM »
Quote from: Roby13 on November 06, 2020, 07:59:42 AM
I just found out that the Synonym Race runs a 70mm stem on the M and 80mm on the L , so is not that I have to modify anything.

I don't want to sound rude or anything but it seems like you had already made your mind even before asking your first question and came here in hope that other people would make you feel good about it. I understand that, for you, the sadle to BB is the biggest factor to check since you're having problems with your knees and it's ok. To me, ETT is way more important since I have lower back pain issues if the seated position is too short or too long. Because ETT is the bigest factor for me, the M would be the best solution and I'm 1.75m. If you think a M is the best for you, go for it. For the price of those frames, you could even buy a M and a L to test out which is best for you.

5
29er / Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
« on: September 29, 2020, 07:17:19 AM »
Just to remind you that in the good old days of QR on the back that small 4-5mm part was in fact fully open (no material at all) and as long as your QR was tightened properly there was no problem.

6
29er / Re: XC frame with 200mm rear shock
« on: September 09, 2020, 08:38:18 AM »
It must be the eye to eye that is 200mm with either a 51mm or a 57mm stroke.

7
29er / Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
« on: July 31, 2020, 12:03:06 PM »
Quote from: Vipassana on July 31, 2020, 11:43:12 AM
I read that people thread a tiny steel bolt into the nipple and then use a magnet to pull them into the holes.  Seems like a PITA.

This is exactly what I'm doing and it's working well as long as you have a strong magnet. You need to remove the valve stem to insert the nipples in the rim but you would have to do that also if you were to remove the tape to change a nipple so it's no big deal.

8
29er / Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
« on: July 31, 2020, 09:32:13 AM »
Quote from: Colt__Seavers on July 31, 2020, 09:05:48 AM
Yeah anodization helps! It all comes down to the method and to the thickness of the aluminum Oxyd layer which gets created by the method.

No holes in rim bed also help a ton. A bit of a bitch to build or change spokes/nipples when they break but also no need to tape the rim and no chances of sealant going between the tape and the rim up to the nipples.

9
After The Ride / Re: What is "All Mountain" and good "Technique"
« on: July 31, 2020, 09:00:04 AM »
I would expect a huck to flat from 2m high ending up without any problem with this type of bike. I'm doing 1m huck to flat with my IP-036 (100mm rear/120mm front) on a regular basis and never had a failure over the past 4.5 years of use.

As for proper technique, if they think everyone will land perfectly smooth and controlled EVERYTIME using their bikes, then they under engineered them. To me, the front wheel is supposed to fold up way before. And having a headset too tight would mean being unable to turn the bars easily and I'm pretty sure your son would have told you about that.

10
29er / Re: Chinese SC/AM831 Group Buy
« on: July 22, 2020, 03:09:54 PM »
I went with a RSD Wildcat v2 frame. I already have a RSD Mayor v3 and love it. This frame was on my short list and I just could not resist anymore! ;)

11
29er / Re: Chinese SC/AM831 Group Buy
« on: July 22, 2020, 11:32:04 AM »
Please remove me from the group. I ended up going with something else.

12
29er / Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
« on: July 07, 2020, 10:29:50 AM »
NS Bikes also use a 37.5mm stroke shock for their race version with 100mm of travel. Carbonda state 100mm with a 40mm stroke.

https://nsbikes.com/synonym-rc-1,427,pl.html

13
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Review Thread
« on: June 23, 2020, 08:51:23 AM »
My first chinese carbon frame was a Denfu FM-098 road frame that I bought in 2012. This is still my only road bike and I use it for around 2000Km per year (so around 17000Km so far on it). I built it with a pair of carbon wheels from Farsport (24mm profile) and they are still as true as new. They are my only wheels for that bike. I've put a Ultegra Di2 groupset on it and the only problem I faced was the ferule stop at the chainstay that was blocking the Di2 cable from going through. I enlarged it and everything went well after that. No crack, no creak, no problems at all with this bike!

I also have a Iplay IP-036 Mtb bike. It's on its 5th summer and still in one piece. The rocker bolts need to be cleaned and greased a bit too often for my taste but outside of that it's rock solid. I broke a shock bolt 2 years ago and destroyed a rear wheel and derailleur the first year but outside of that I can't seem to find a way to break the frame. ;)


Edit: added crappy pictures! :)

14
29er / Re: Chinese SC/AM831 Group Buy
« on: June 07, 2020, 05:30:12 PM »
Well, it took me a while before taking a decision of what type of bike I wanted next. Put me in for this frame!

Size: medium (17.5)
Color: UD matte
Location: Canada

15
26er & 27.5 (650b) / Re: Planning an FM10 build from TanTan - Sizing?
« on: June 02, 2020, 09:26:18 AM »
I'm 1.75m (5'8" 3/4) and would not go with the 19" for one single reason. I would not be able to fit a dropper in there since the seat tube would be way too long. Nowadays, a dropper is mandatory on this kind of bikes when things are pointing down.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10