Isn't it a 54mm gap?  That's what the specs say.

The bearings are very sligtly wider than 54mm.  I would believe 56 could be correct, maybe even 58.  To fit a 54mm trunnion shock in there you need to use the two 10mm ID washers that come with the hardware kit.  I recall hem being closer to 2mm thick, but thats going by memory.  Nevertheless, the distance from bearing to bearing is greater than 54 mm.

That was quick, 2 hours of me riding and shock bolt snapped. The frame was nice, I was having an issue with my chain tension and the derailleur not expanded XT 12sp.

Also with a dnm 36rc 200mm it hits the part they adjusted, emailing them right now about it and a replacement bolt (will that even last 1hr longer?).

Really had plans to buy a HT frame for me and a FS for a friend.

Read my previous posts, Ive run into both issues.   

For the shock clearance, use a dremel and sanding disk and remove some carbon where the nose of the shock rubs.  Then smear on tiny but of 2-part epoxy to seal the fibers.  The seat stays are plenty strong enough, and the arch portion is thick carbon.  Lots to work with, it seems.

As for the bolt, you have a couple different choices.  The option that will get you up and running today is to run to the hardware store and get a 5/16 x 3" bolt and nyloc nut for a couple bucks.   Youll need to find some old chainring bolts from your parts box, or visit a local bike shop.  Alloy bolts are better because you need to drill the threads out.  Then you can use the female chainring bolts as an adapter so the 5/6 bolt will fit snugly in the 10mm bearings ID.

http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2876.msg22209.html#msg22209

There are some other more elegant solutions, but will require ordering special parts.  The 5/16 bolt will get you back up and running immediately, even if it will look a little funny for a while.

Good luck.

Mine did indeed come with the aluminum races bonded in place, however it did not come with the headset itself.  I did get a seat post clamp, and TWO rear axles, for some reason.  I paid a little extra for two spare derailleur hangers, so maybe they threw in an axle with those?  Dont know.

Skelt, sorry, I had assumed you had already contacted warranty support to see what they can do for you.  So far my experience has been generally positive with them, but shipping times are particularly painful due to the global pandemic.  For that reason, I'm doing my best to self support through DIY fixes.  Good luck to you.

Hi! I just found this site.

Yeah i'm having some teething problems with the frame.  Like one of the posts above my front bolt for the rear shock also snapped! Doesn't fill you with confidence that the carbon itself is solid, but it appears to be....i hope.

I've ordered a titanium m10x80 bolt and nut, 3mm spacers, a rubber o-ring and washer from ebay.  Also ordered 10x50 mounting kit from: https://www.tftuned.com/tf-tuned-mount-kit-127mm-m10/p2938

I also had to hand make a aluminium adapter and drill the holes in the correct location to stop the frame rubbing.

Fingers crossed that'll be it!

Edit: i ordered the frame on the 5th of march 2020

Welcome, glad to hear from you.  Your fix seems to be a pretty good workaround.   Sucks that we have to modify things ourselves to get some added reliability, but small price in the grand scheme of things...  The carbon itself appears to be pretty stout.

I currently have two fixes for the broken shock bolt:

#1, more of a preventitive measure, keeps the existing stock bolt in place.  Instead of using spacers, I ordered a length of 1/2" OD .049 wall stainless tube for ten bucks on ebay.  The inner diameter is a perfect fit to the 10mm shaft.  I cut a section of tube to 54mm in length.  Since the hardware now spans nearly the entire width from bearing to bearing, the bolt should be much less prone to breaking at the thinner center section.  The shear strength is on the 10mm section of the bolt, not the center 8mm section.  Youll need to use the trunnion mount inner washers on either side of the tube.

#2 is similar to the fix mentioned earlier, and will help while you're waiting for replacement parts to arrive, assuming youve already broken the bolt.  I'm using off the shelf 54x8mm mounting hardware, 8mm ID 2mm thick spacers, 8mm x 70mm sex bolt (or 5/16" x 3" bolt cut to length).  And use drilled out alloy chainring bolts to fit the 8mm bolt in the 10mm inner bearing race. 

I'm still using the second option while I wait for the warranty replacement bolts, then I'll move to option 1 purely for aesthetics.  I think both options are considerably stronger than the factory bolt, and neither is particularly expensive.

I didnt find the chainline to be particularly bad with this frame.  I dont have issues keeping the chain in teh big cog, though i dont use teh granny gear all that much.  I had just a touch of ghost shifting that I finally ironed out.  It was partly due to loose pivots, partly due to b-limit, partly due to barrell adjuster, partly due to cassette break in, etc.  A few more miles and things seem  to be holding much better.  I will say, the second to biggest gear seems to be a touch noisy, but doesnt jump out of gear at all.  Ill try to grab a pic, but for the most part, I dont find chainline to be an issue at all.

They contacted me and said the bolt shouldnt have snapped, and that its a strong part.  They will be sending me TWO replacement bolts.  Cool of them, but I dont trust them to hold any better.   I realize that its just too long of a span to support with that bolt.  In my opinion, the fix is to use a proper 8x54 shock mount hardware, that way the strong tube spans the whole 54mm width.   I could drill (or ream) the tube out from 8mm to 10mm and it would still be relatively strong, and I would be able to use the replacement bolt.  But honestly, I think the strongest configuration is what Ive already got now.  I just need to dress it up with a clean looking button head sex bolt.  Wow, that sounds dirty.

Another option I thought of, other than fabricating those adapters out of chainring bolts, is to simply replace the pressed in bearings with ones with an 8mm inner race.  Then you could use the 8mm bolt directly without any sort of adapter.  That would be clean.  I'm currently using 5/16 washers, and they are a perfect tight fit, acting as a dust shield.  Maybe Ill pick some up in black oxide, or maybe ill just paint them.

All in all, I think I'll consider what Ive done to be an upgrade / mod and leave it in place, rather than risk what could be a catastrophic failure.  If anyone wants to play it safe, I would certainly suggest going with  the trunnion shock given the choice.  But if you already have a standard shock you want to use, dont shy away from the frame just because of this issue.   Modding it to use 8x54 hardware is trivially easy to do.

So, more bad news with the frame.  Had another failure I noticed yesterday.  The very clever through bolt that allows mounting a standard shock instead of trunnion shock, well, it snapped in half, and bent.  Luckily I was able to hammer it out, and seems no damage to the frame or bearings.  I'm a heavy dude at 235+ lbs ride weight (105 kg ish?) but this happened at moderately tame riding, XC or light trail style stuff.  I heard a pop going over a log rollover and inspected the carbon, but didn't find any problems. I rode another hour without issue, then rode the streets home.  It wasnt until the next day I notice the bolt was a bit proud, and couldn't be screwed back together.

Anyway, I have a fairly simple and inexpensive fix in place right now.  A stainless steel 5/16 x 3 inch (or 3-1/2" cut down a bit) bolt fits snugly through the 8mm shock hardware, but is too loose in the 10mm frame bearings.  I found some loose chainring bolts from old style 104 BCD chainrings fit the 10mm bearing just fine, and have a shoulder to keep them located.  I simply needed to drill them out 5/16 to slide the bolt through.  Anyway, there's the tiniest little bit of play, but nothing I'm concerned about, so Ill continue riding this way until TanTan can come up with a suitable replacement.  And if they cant, Ill just come up with a more elegant version of this stainless bolt.  It works well enough.

So there you go.  Another ding.  I feel like they're using their customers as their QC department.  At least I got a really good deal, and tend to enjoy wrenching and tinkering on the bike.