Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - deezums

Pages: [1] 2
1
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: March 02, 2018, 06:32:15 PM »
FYI i built this up over 6 months ago - you can see it here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1349.0.html

I did a 29er build, so let me know if you have any questions.

Just going through your post - i routed the dropper cable over the BB shell (all internal). As for the additional holes, I covered it with clear tape.

Thanks for posting what you did! Yours and rideczeck's build logs are a main reason why I ordered this frame!

With all this talk about shocks and since you're here, did you order that Topaz straight from DVO? I looked around for deals on them but couldn't find much for under $500 or so.

I managed to get a pretty good deal on this Monarch, apparently they came on some trek slash. I bought this one as a factory takeoff on ebay for a touch over $200. I was planning on ordering more volume spacers, it has two now and I can still get through all the travel pretty easily with 12mm or 20% of sag. I think it might be because the frame has a linear leverage ratio and the debonair can is supposed to make the shock less progressive. From what linkage says, it goes from 3.35mm/mm to 2.3mm/mm at full compression. If I am not mistaken, this means it's 150% linearly progressive ratio, as in it's right about 2.85mm/mm at half the travel. I think Specialized Enduro is similar, some people complain about the debonair can and attribute it to the geometry being linear, I assume they mean linearly progressive? But what kind of slope are we talking? I should roughly sketch one of those up, curious what they look like in comparison.

I need to know what my shock does, too. Need to build adapters for my homemade shock dyno.


2
29+ & 27+ / Re: Ican P9 build
« on: February 25, 2018, 12:51:06 PM »
You will want to get offset shock bushings so you can shorten the 216mm down to 210. The p9 uses 8mm upper and lower shock hardware. If you use 2mm offset bushings you can get down to 212mm eye to eye. Without the offset bushings I think you will get interference between the seat tube and suspension piviot.

Ican also sent me a nice expanding fork plug with my frame, as well as a headset bearing set and carbon spacers, carbon seat tube clamp. Besides upper and lower shock hardware you should have about all you need. You'll want 8x30mm and 8x25.4mm bushings.

I am using a 180mm 2016 Lyrik, I found it for cheap since it's a few years old and technically isn't a plus sized fork. Fat tires fit with reduced mud clearance, and it's 180mm so it's got the proper 571mm axle to crown dimension. Finding a fork long enough to maintain the head angle and bottom bracket height is kinda tricky, you can get headset extensions. Kinda wish I knew of these before I bought my fork! Stacking one of these on top of a 160mm fork should get you right where you want to be!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Production-Privee-Headset-Extension-18mm/322722633987?epid=2226274538&hash=item4b23c49903:g:8vQAAOSwor1aZ3WI

 

3
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: February 23, 2018, 03:47:21 PM »
I wish I could be more help but I haven't many points to reference, other than the two stumpys pictured above. Those are both large, my frame is a medium and feels less cramped than either now that I have my bars angled properly. If you look at the comparison between a medium P9 and a Large SJ6F here you'll see they are pretty dang close except the chainstay...

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/specialized-stumpjumper-fsr-carbon-6fattie-2016-l,ican-p9-2017-m/

I wish I got a 150-170mm dropper post now, I had mine as low as it would go and it was great till I hit a climb. I've been slowly raising it, and I've been bit by the saddle twice now!

I might look into making some spare lower piviot bolts, just in case. I should have measured the thing while I had it out. Guess I still need to replace those bearings, anyway. What's your guy's opinion on the enduro bearings, I think they have more bearings for better load capacity? They aren't cheap, must be good  ;D




4
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: February 20, 2018, 07:55:16 PM »
I took the rear apart today and measured the bearings. They're all one size, 6801's! A few are totally shot, super chunky turning, the rest are OK. I thought my spraying the bike with the hose for two hours cleaning clay off might have caused some water intrusion but everything under the dust shields looks OK. Now I am thinking they were low quality to begin with or there was some glue intrusion maybe? There are 11 in total, the front chainstay piviot has two bearings on the drive side and one on the non-drive side. Interestingly, the suspension piviot is all aluminum and only painted or coated black, some cool machining went into that piece. The chainstay piviot bolt is aluminum but solid construction. I remember seeing something of these breaking on other Ican frames. I'm looking back now and can't find where I saw that now, were those that snapped hollow?

Anyway, what I found with the sticky bearings doesn't seem like something that would cause the squeaking I'm hearing, argh!!

Back to crummy cold and wet weather for the near future, boo   :(






5
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: February 19, 2018, 10:13:50 PM »
Nice! Funny you mention this as I bought one a couple weeks ago also. Which one did you get? There is a bit of a learning curve but I think I have it figured out. It's the cut settings that seem to be variable. I've been using some Oracal 651 with great results but I've also got some black reflective vinyl that's been a bit of a pain. I've set the depth so it's cutting halfway through the paper and it's still a PITA to weed. It also decided to leave an adhesive deposit on the cutting blade which then pulled all the letters off and I ruined half a sheet.

I got a UScutter MH365, the little one. I've worked with lots of cheap chinese laser cutters, cnc routers and other oddities, this one is by far the smoothest one I've played with yet.

I'm using some greenstar outdoor stuff for now, figured I'd practice on the cheap stuff but it's honestly not too bad where I've used it so far. I did a few tests to calibrate blade offset and messed with the roller pressure so it doesn't emboss the material so much. I also turned up the cutting pressure quite a bit and the speed way down, I think I have it around 60mm/s and 180-200g for a pressure.

I managed to cut a tiny little brake rotor, going to make a "Right hand front" sticker to warn people! This complicated mess weeded just fine but the big block text to the left did not! I think it is because most of the cuts on the artwork were continuous, but the text had sharp corners where the blade stopped or restarted. I imported a raw DXF as a test, it cut that segment by segment as if there was no continuous contour!! Not good for weeding!



That black reflective stuff is cool, I'm going to have to get some of that! I might try using a new blade to see if I can keep from wasting a sheet, I've accidentally ran across the wear strip a few times on accident besides all the vinyl I've cut.


6
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: February 18, 2018, 07:27:06 PM »
I've been busy enjoying the bike! I got some new tires, the WTB Ranger Fast/Light. Dropped over a pound of rotating mass, 532g to be exact! I also picked up some cheap plastic fenders, you can use a front one on the rear rather easily.

I've also been busy helping build jumps, no dig no ride!


https://s17.postimg.org/rp4quzjd9/IMG_20180213_171529.jpg


https://s17.postimg.org/iu3wkhhq5/IMG_20180218_162223.jpg

I also bought a vinyl cutter, it's a learning curve but I think I'm figuring it out!





I believe my piviot bearings are going out, I took the rear pivots apart and found some rust. I get some squeaks on occasion. Thinking I might have to take the thing apart and measure everything, either that or wait till after the 28th to hear back from Ican!

7
29er / Re: Carbon Integrated Handlebar for MTB
« on: February 11, 2018, 10:02:45 PM »
Nice !
This prototype testing may be more dangerous than a cassette  ;)

It is funny the effort to make it the same shape as a classic stem + bar.
On my Canyon, it is totally flat, and seems more of a one piece.

I wonder if it's effort, or just using a standard alloy stem/bar as the mold?

Still very cool!

8
29+ & 27+ / Re: Ican P9 build
« on: February 11, 2018, 09:58:02 PM »
The BB width is 73mm, I used a 3mm sram eagle boost offset chainring and standard 68/73mm GXP BSA BB with no spacers. I think that means you'd want the 52mm chainline, if I'm not mistaken.



9
Component Deals & Selection / Novatec D791SB and end cap compatibility
« on: February 04, 2018, 09:14:32 PM »
I'm running a Sram Torque cap front fork and a novatec D791SB hub with standard 15x110 thru axle endcaps. I don't mind much, but getting the front hub lined up with the fork is a right pain.

I took a random search just out of curiosity and found these, they appear to be torque cap compatible endcaps! The listing only gives compatibility with "D541SB,D881SB,XD641sb,factor, and some oem/odm hub such as spank kore" Bummer, not my hub!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOVATEC-hub-Torque-Caps-for-SRAM-RockShox-Forks-15x100-15x110mm-Boost-31TC-/302547608141?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1&var=601385023191

I found this web page and it makes me think that all of these novatec hubs use similar endcaps and they call it "multi axle system." I'm curious how likely it'll be these fit if I order them, they aren't expensive so I don't mind trying them for the sake of knowing.

http://nguide.eu/faq/convertible-vs-non-convertible-hubs

Has anyone any experience with these novatec hubs multi axle system? Any guesses on how likely they are to work?

Thanks!

10
29+ & 27+ / Re: Ican P9 build
« on: February 03, 2018, 09:37:00 PM »
I searched and searched for such a thing and wasn't able to find it!

It certainly opens up the fork selection for the P9 quite a bit! Too cool, wonder why they aren't more popular like shock offset bushings.

11
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: February 03, 2018, 09:34:40 PM »
I think I figured out what a lot of my problems were on hitting these jumps, I had my handlebars rotated way too far back and I'm guessing lost a lot of leverage over the front end. I was having a hard time getting the front to pop off kickers, no matter how hard I tried to preload it just seemed to eat it up even more and leave me no speed till the rear hit and tries to send you OTB...

Rotating them forward moved me forwards a good bit and I'm able to manipulate the front much easier. I can pretty reliably clear the jump between the trees in the last photo  ;D

I went and rode some real trails today and had a blast, part of the ride was maybe a 500-800 meter 20% grade to "earn the decent" and this thing eats it up so we did it twice! It climbs better than the 2013 stumpy elite on the same hill, and I seemed to be having an easier time than my buddy on the SJ6F with the 9-46 ethirteen cassette. I forgot to use the dual position front shock the first time up and really didn't notice much of a difference the second time, kind of wishing I got a solo air now since they've got more easy upgrades. Maybe I just need to find steeper hills!

Spent some time working on some jumps in the afternoon too, with shovels and bikes both...



My buddy jumping the stumpy, then my bike after the sun pretty much gave up. He slipped off the brake levers and almost ate a tree, I moved them in quite a bit to work them with one finger  :)

I need to get a MTB friendly gopro setup!

12
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: January 31, 2018, 09:11:00 PM »
And I think I'm gonna have to do it again! I left the rear brake line too long, it gets stuck on my lockout. I still need to adjust a bunch, still not sure how I want it. The bars are all a mess, I need to do something about it. I ran the brakes backwards, it makes more sense to me with experience riding motorcycles.

I managed to get some more riding in, and pictures! There's a fun little spot not far from where I live, where I keep managing to hurt myself  :)


https://s17.postimg.org/mlmiz5dod/IMG_20180131_172642.jpg


https://s17.postimg.org/9u8csnjbx/IMG_20180131_172655.jpg


https://s17.postimg.org/szbm2eqa5/IMG_20180131_172823.jpg





I think I'm going to get new tires, thinking WTB Rangers or Maxxis Chronicles. Something that rolls just a bit easier!

13
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: January 28, 2018, 01:30:19 AM »
I don't think this frame has a hole, I checked the iscg holes and they are blind so I can't use them as a drain. I might just have to drill one

My brakes finally came, tomorrow I might get some real riding in!

Bleeding brakes sucks! It took much longer than I thought it would, all the daylight was gone by the time I was done. In the end I made a hanging handlebar reservoir and used a syringe to push/pull fluid back and forth 800 times. I found it best to only trigger the brake lever while pulling fluid through the caliper, then waiting for all the tiny microscopic bubbles to collect on top of the syringe before pushing it back through. Also zip tied the calipers vertical and tapped them with a plastic handle a lot to dislodge bubbles. When I was finally done I capped off the master cylinder while using the caliper syringe to purge all air from the bleed port. I had to remove the calipers and make sure to have them above the master cylinder when removing the syringe from the caliper, then I'd use the syringe to add a few drips of fluid to the port before installing the cap. I'm pretty happy with how tight they are now, but I think I can make them better still.

I came up with a trick for the rear brake cable, there is no cable stay on the seat tube and the cable naturally wants to flex out into the crank arm. Since I did not use the odd extra dropper post hole I was able to use it and a zip tie to make a seat tube cable stay.



Here is a shot of the rear at full droop travel with the 210x60 shock, the seat sure gets close  8)



I took the bike out to some jumps earlier, while I still didn't have brakes. I tried sending it, but it's still pretty muddy and no brakes don't mix well. I ate it a few times and christened the pedals on my calves really well, but the bike took it all like a champ. I cased one pretty good too, used all but the last 10-15mm of the front shock but still managed to roll over. Whoops!  ;D

The bottom bracket is really really low! It's going to take some getting used to, feels as though you'll hit everything. I got a pedal down hauling around a corner on a paved trail and skipped the rear out pretty good, could have went a lot worse.

I think I need to slow down before I really hurt myself  :)
 


14
29+ & 27+ / Re: Ican P9 build
« on: January 25, 2018, 06:25:35 PM »
They are being a little deceptive with the head angle, 66.1 is the spec on the general drawing and it's 66.9 on a more detailed drawing of a medium frame and that is all with 571mm ATC fork, not a 160mm. That's kinda far off from 65, more like 68... Cane creek 40 headset, I thought the P9 was like the P8 and could not use press in offset headset? Am I missing something? I did not miss that the axle to crown dimension is strangely missing from the site  ::)
 
Here is the detailed drawing I mentioned earlier.
https://s17.postimg.org/96mfjdjgt/P9-275_PLUS-_M-_Model.jpg


15
29+ & 27+ / Re: Sanity check my P9 build, please!
« on: January 23, 2018, 06:38:17 PM »
I'm not sure I can bring myself to drill a hole, and I'm not too keen on pulling the bottom bracket apart often!

I believe I can figure a way to control a proper drill bit to do so without delamination, but not so much when crossing over into the aluminum. The aluminum bracket also has a 5mm lip inside where it meets the downtube, for complete drainage I would need to drill the downtube. This lip also makes it interesting getting dropper screws out of the frame, careful while removing those hose covers ;D

I'm not sure what I would like to do, I'll have to think about it for a while. Maybe I can use a thicker version of plastidip to seal as much as I can? I wish the seatpost were a little easier to remove!

If I dry out my wheels and put a little sealant in with the nipples I wonder if it'll help keep that water out. I'm not as worried about the wheels as I am the bottom bracket.

Thank you both for the nice comments! Carbonazza, were the frames you drilled alloy or carbon?



Pages: [1] 2