Thank you both 

I'll compare the measurements you have with my own and see if there are any huge differences!

Water, water in the downtube!! There is no drain hole, I had to remove the bottom bracket! I need to check and see if any of the ISGC tapped holes go through into the frame, if they do maybe I can get a vented screw to use as a water drain. I really, really don't want to drill a hole anywhere! It seems an extra small hole could be placed in the aluminum BSA bracket pointing down, I will send a e-mail to Ican and see if they take suggestions...

Also, the wheels have taken on water! That's probably gonna get at the sticky side of my tape and ruin it!

Is this normal for carbon bits? To be fair, I'd call the amount of water I used cleaning mud about the same as throwing it in a lake. It's also unfair to call it mud, it was more clay 

I did a few things this evening, nothing too exciting. I took advantage of the Horst link and purchased some 50mm heat shrink and cut it into sections, then disassembled the rear pivots and slipped it over the chainstay for a ghetto chain guard! If you do this trick, I suggest shrinking the wheel and ground facing side before doing the outer and upper face as it seems to pull the heat shrink tighter with less heat and looks a little neater in the end. Lots of the heat shrink this size has glue included and takes much more heat to shrink, I wouldn't get that stuff!


https://s17.postimg.org/lz88ucan1/IMG_20180122_185229.jpg

I also bled the dropper post and I'm happy to report it works a lot more reliably than it did when I got it! It used to get ~1" of soft travel if you were to stop midway in the stroke occasionally, not very good. I haven't had that issue since the bleed, it only has ~1mm of vertical play. I am also glad I did not get a 150mm travel post, I would not be able to use the extra travel!

My brakes are still somewhere between the UK and USA, I may check the tracking number rather frequently 

More to come 

 

Most parts have come in! Still waiting on brakes, and some bleeding tools for the post...


https://s17.postimg.org/fy44dvxp9/IMG_20180120_190801.jpg


https://s17.postimg.org/5bab8ga4d/IMG_20180120_190709.jpg


https://s17.postimg.org/9kf1an88t/IMG_20180120_190745.jpg


https://s17.postimg.org/i2ohez71p/IMG_20180120_190721.jpg

Some notes on what's been done...

My steerer tube is weird looking, I am leaving it long for a while till I know how I want it permanently.

I taped up the Ican rims using Kapton tape, I ordered 35mm width and I had 20mm on hand from previous projects. The 20mm works much better as it's easier to pull tight with no wrinkles. The 35mm is perfect considering the drop center geometry (34mm inner width) but it's impossible to tension the drop center enough while keeping the bead surfaces flat and wrinkle free. No sealant yet and I can hold pressure for days with the 20mm tape, the tire is still easy enough to install and remove with no tools using the drop center. Partially mounting the bead by hand is all that's needed for seating the bead with an air pump. I am super happy with the wheels so far!

The routing for an internal dropper post is confusing, there are three outlet holes on the down tube as well as an inlet hole on the seat tube. At first glance it seems the routing is meant to go inside the down tube, out around the lower shock eye, then into the seat tube on the non-drive side. There is a hole inside the BB threaded shell, this makes it easy to run the internally routed dropper post internally the entire way with no aggressive bends and no worries on crank clearance to cables on the non-drive side. If the seat tube hole is an outlet for an external dropper post it's angled the wrong direction! I'm not really sure what's going on with the extra holes...

I found the chain length sizing kinda confusing, but I managed to work it all out using the bike itself. The chain growth is pretty radical with 60mm shock travel, keeping the chain short enough for full droop travel on the 10 cog while keeping a chain long enough at full compression on the 50 cog is tricky. These limits are pretty radical, not normal operating conditions by any means, but I managed to make it perfect. The lower chain guide I picked actually helps, it shortens the chain at full droop but does not do so as much at full compression. I'm not sure if this is the intended design, I didn't know it when I bought it but I like it! I am using 118 links on my chain, if this helps anyone else.

I also purchased Linakge software and modeled the frame as best I could using the given documents, hopefully they are at least to scale for this to be anything accurate. The most descriptive PDF does not give XY dimensions of piviot points, only direct dimensions in some places and no angles, useless!!


https://s17.postimg.org/b0vlpqp59/image.png

The following is a graph of anti-squat with 21-32. 50t is around 125% at 20% sag, and 215% on the 10t.

I wonder how well I can ride with no brakes?

 

Thanks, I hope everything I've picked works out alright in the end too!

I've been ordering parts and waiting for them to arrive for a while now, it's all finally showing up! I got the frame and wheels, they made it through shipping in excellent shape!



Here's a list of what I'll be running...

Ican P9 Medium frame
40mm ican carbon wheels with novatec hubs
Maxxis DHF/DHRII 2.8"
Rockshox Monarch plus RC3 210x60, 8x30mm upper bushing, 8x25.4mm lower
Rockshox Lyrik RCT3 180mm dual position
Reverb 125mm Post
Eagle GX groupset, 165mm GXP crank and 73mm adapter
Magura MT Trail Sport brakes, 203mm front/180mm rear
35mm stem, 740mm Ican riser bar

I e-mailed Melody at Ican around the beginning of December, paid for a P9 frame and wheelset near the middle of the month and they just shipped everything on the 4th and sent me photos and tracking numbers. She said US customs refuses packages sometime in December so had to wait till after the first.

I don't think Chinese new year is till around mid February, I made sure to ask and make sure my frame would ship before then!