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Messages - Carbon_Dude

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1771
Component Deals & Selection / Re: SRAM XX1 1x11 Discussion
« on: April 20, 2014, 08:13:10 PM »
Well, guess I spoke too soon.  My XX1 derailleur has the dreaded creak problem, will keep you guys updated on the fix.

UPDATE:  I contacted the eBay seller that I purchased the XX1 R/D from and they offered to cross-ship a replacement.  All I can say is props to West Coast Bicycle, they rock!  I will be shipping out my R/D in the morning, I should get the replacement hopefully by Friday or Monday.  In the meantime, I guess I will be riding the IP-057, which is why it's nice to have two bikes, when one is down for repair you have another so you don't miss any rides :).

1772
First post updated.

1773
I need to keep telling myself, "I'm not going to build another bike, I'm not going to build another bike..." :).

1774
29er / Re: My FM-057 Build Thread.
« on: April 20, 2014, 08:54:11 AM »
If you over tighten the brake line, it will leak and the brake line might even pull right out of the lever, it sucks when this happens because now you need a new insert and olive and then you need to start over again re-connecting the brake line.  If you squeeze the lever and have no leaks, and the lever is firm, you are god to go.

That's the same grease, Park Tools Polylube, that I used throughout my two bikes.

For either of the two Chiner builds I've done, I've not used any carbon paste.  There is some debate that if you don't need it to solve slippage problems, you don't need to use it.  Given there would only be two places I would even think it could be applied on my bikes, seat post and bars, I found that if I tighten the clamp and stem to the proper torque (5 N-m), I have zero slippage issues.

I suppose if you add carbon past you can reduce the torque down to maybe 3-4 N-m but for me it's just one less thing to worry about.

I purchased a Ritchey Torqkey to help with setting the torque more easily on carbon parts: 
http://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-TorqKey-5Nm-bits-T-15/dp/B009F93S9C

I have a torque wrench but this is something I can take with me on the trail and make adjustments and not worry about over tightening the bolts.  I suppose I could also just make note of how much I turned the bolt when I loosened it and re-tighten it the same amount but I thought the TorqKey was pretty cool, quick and easy.


1775
29er / Re: My FM-057 Build Thread.
« on: April 19, 2014, 05:14:41 PM »
Also be careful with how much torque you apply to the hex nut, if you over-tighten the nut you will crush the olive.  I've done this twice.  I guess that's why they include the crowfoot wrench so you can use a torque wrench to properly tighten the nut.

1776
29er / Re: My FM-057 Build Thread.
« on: April 19, 2014, 04:39:28 PM »
If you use the pair of yellow blocks that hold the brake line (they would have come with the Shimano brakes), it's not too difficult to install.  Just clamp the cut end of the brake line between the yellow blocks, pinch the blocks in a vise or vise-grips, and tap the insert down with a hammer making sure it bottoms out.  Also make sure you have all the other parts on the brake line prior to installing the insert.


1777
Since I have both bikes, I thought I'd start up a thread comparing the two bikes.  I will include component lists, costs, and weight.




First up, IP-057 Hardtail, weight as built 19.5 lbs (8.85kg):


Specs:


Riding Impressions:
The IP-057 is a great bike, with my setup I've created a very comfortable riding position with the WTB saddle and riser bars.  I built this hardtail because I wanted a 29er and I wanted something simple.  Last April when I put this bike together, the IP057 frame was still new and I needed to wait approx 30 days for delivery.  I'm glad I did.  The carbon does a really good job of damping small vibrations.  It just doesn't beat me up like an Aluminum frame bike does.  Even though you don't feel any flex with this frame, the carbon will give somewhat to help soak up small bumps.

My favorite part of riding this bike is the way it climbs, so efficiently that you just feel as though you are using 30% less energy to make it up a long climb, or you can get up the hill that much faster if I put in the same effort as I did on one of my old bikes.  The bike is also good downhill, maintaining good control over rough sections. 

So, to sum it up, the IP-057 is a comfortable, light, and efficient ride.


Next up, IP-036 Full Suspension, weight as built 24 lbs (10.9kg)


Specs:


Riding Impressions:
When I built my IP-057 last year I had no plans of building a carbon FS 29er but here I am with two bikes now.  One of the reasons I built this bike was that I liked the FS on the 26" Epic that I had, but the bike just felt too small after riding a 29er.  The Epic was a 2004 but I had put in many upgrades.  I made the decision to sell the Epic and my Trek 69er to help fund a new Carbon FS 29er.  Even after building the IP-057, I had not totally made up my mind to build another Chiner.  I did lots of demo rides from Intense, Giant, Scott, and Specialized.  All the big brands have their strong points but their main weak point was price.  I just couldn't make myself pay 2X for a bike with lesser components.  I was also lucky enough to test ride a locally branded IP-036 at a nearby MTB race.  The bike felt good, certainly good enough for half the price.

So in February I decided to start building a IP-036.  I knew I wanted to go again with XT brakes and an XX1 drivetrain.  However, I needed to choose wheels, fork, and a rear shock.  I found deals on a Fox CTD fork and Fox CTD rear shock, both with remote lockouts.  When I rode the Scott Spark 920 it had dual lockouts and I thought, hey might as well do that setup.

Today I took the IP-036 on it's third ride.  It takes at least a couple rides to get a good feel for a new bike and make any adjustments needed to get everything just right.  After this ride, I can say for sure that I am glad I now have a FS bike to go along with my hardtail.

The great thing about a FS 29er is that it makes every root, rock and bump feel much smaller.  The suspension does a really good job of soaking up the rough trail and giving the rider a much more comfortable ride.  Being FS, the bike is also very fast and controllable downhill.  I hit a higher speed this ride than I usually do on the same downhill on my IP-057 with less effort.  I can probably eek out another 2-3 mph top speed on the IP-036.  For this build, I went with a 90mm stem and flat bars, this gives the IP-036 a different feel, a 20mm shorter stem is making the bike feel smaller even though the wheelbase is longer.

If I were to go on an all day ride I would take the IP-036 for its comfort and the ability for it to soak up the trail, if I wanted to go on a short ride and just run a 1-2 hr long sprint, I'd chose the IP-057 for it's great climbing ability.

1778
29er / Carbon Frame Summary Blog Page
« on: April 19, 2014, 01:44:56 PM »
This is a good reference page for someone looking to decide which model Chiner frame they want.  He has listed several hardtail frames, no FS frames as yet but he just started the blog page a short time ago.

http://bikingtoplay.blogspot.com/2013/11/chinese-carbon-bike-frames.html

1779
29er / Other IP-036 Chiner FS Carbon Builds
« on: April 19, 2014, 01:41:41 PM »
Here is a link to another MTBR member's IP-036 build.  He did a nice job with his blog and he continues to update it as he does some upgrades and he also talks about an epic 7 day ride he took on his bike.

http://steveboehm.com/wordpress/

1780
29er / Re: My FM-057 Build Thread.
« on: April 19, 2014, 11:40:44 AM »
Most likely they are different, use the Shimano insert and wait until you have a spare to shorten the front brake line.

You should have gotten one extra with each Shimano brake.  If not then you will need to order spares or see if the LBS has one, they are like $5 each.

1781
29er / Re: My FM-057 Build Thread.
« on: April 19, 2014, 09:20:54 AM »
Those steps sound about right, I didn't bother with covering the hose end, not much fluid was lost but either way is fine.  One of the tools that I bought was a hydraulic line cutter, it slices the brake line leaving a clean edge, I also used a pointy tool to make sure the line was nice and round after the cut.

I also bought a Park cable cutter to get clean cuts on the cables and cable housings.

One more thing I bought was cable lubricant to reduce friction and help prevent corrosion of the cable in the housing.

1782
29er / Re: My FM-057 Build Thread.
« on: April 19, 2014, 08:24:04 AM »
Definitely don't need the tubing, I don't even remember if mine had any.  The cables feed right through and out the other end.  One thing you can do is feed your cable from back to front, for example, for the brake line you would not disconnect the caliper.  You would disconnect the lever, and feed the brake line from the chain stay up to the head tube.

While you are at it, you might as well shorten the cable so you can use the no bleed method of shortening the brake line which is basically these steps:

1)  Remove pads
2)  Squeeze the lever a few times to push the pistons inward about 5mm
3)  Disconnect the lever
4)  Route your rear brake line through the frame
5)  Mount your caliper
6)  Determine how much cable to cut
7)  Install new olive and insert
8)  Reconnect the brake line to the lever
9)  Push the caliper pistons back using a tire lever
10) Reinstall brake pads & Yellow block.

You should be good to go with no air in the brake line.

1783
29er / Re: Welcome to Chinertown!
« on: April 19, 2014, 08:10:50 AM »
Whoever's idea it was to start this forum hit the nail on the head. Great idea, and I'll be hanging around to see how it progresses. Also, the name cracks me up! Good luck!

That would be Sitar_Ned, I'm just an invited guest :).  I agree, he's doing a great job with the website.

1784
I rode a Origin8 Fat Bike a few months back at the Southeast Bike Expo, it was a totally different experience.  I didn't think I would like it but like anything bike related, once you try it, you want more.  The tires are so huge that it reminded me of riding one of those old fat tire mini bikes:



The tires had about 9psi of air in them and if you leaned left or right, the bike would turn in that direction.  According to the Origin8 website, the bikes weight is 42lbs, but it didn't feel quite that heavy.  Carbon rims may knock off a few pounds but that would still be a heavy bike.  The tires alone must weigh 3-4 lbs each!

Here is a link:  http://www.origin8.bike/product-description/?prod_model_uid=7933  Although the bike I rode had a traditional rear derailleur, not the Nuvinci internal gear hub.

1785
Fat Bikes are definitely a lot about having a cool looking ride that turns heads.

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