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Topics - carbonazza

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16
I finally tried cheap Ti spindles two months ago.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/RockBros-Titanium-Ti-Bike-Bicyle-Pedal-Spindle-for-Crank-Brothers-Egg-Beater-Candy-1-2-3/1752403716.html

However while hunting a creak that appeared recently, I found out it was coming from the left pedal( amplified as usual by the frame ).

Look at what I saw when disassembling it (the top one):

Scary isn't it?

The bottom one is new, as I received two left side by mistake :)
The other spindle(right side) is not as bad, but already well underway.

After breaking 2 crank brothers in 2 years.
And having tried cheap Ti spindles, I'm afraid it is time to look for another brand of pedals.

Anyone has relatively light pedals and still happy after months of usage :) ?

17
Component Deals & Selection / GCN at Taipei 2016 video
« on: March 14, 2016, 03:41:37 AM »
An interesting video of GCN talking( positively ) about the no brand frames we love so much :)

18
29er / After a 256, after a 041, here comes my Workswell 062
« on: March 10, 2016, 10:12:30 AM »
After a few recent issues with the frames, the lefty, broken pedals, etc.
I realized that having just one bike was not a viable option anymore.

While I can fix most things, some issues may take a very long time to sort out.
Which means no ride during that time.

So after having tried a 256, then briefly a 041, I was wondering what I could do now.
RS VR6 made so much positive noise about his bike it was intriguing.
And a very reasonable price helped me decide for a 062

I took the simple PF30. Since I had the BB and the XX1 crank already.
Verified multiple times with Ken there about size, BB, etc. (Ken was very helpful and nice).

As promised the frame arrived about 10 days later here in Europe! Well packed and protected.


Some goodies come for the price, which is a very nice touch:


They have definitely some issues with the bottom bracket.
The one you see in the picture, looks like a PF30 outside, but expects a 24mm spindle.
For me PF30 means a 30mm spindle, so I couldn't do anything with it.

I prefer to start the internal cabling before anything else.
So I can guide the hoses easily by the headtube or the bb shell.

First the rear derailleur. Full hosing. Entering from the top.
Unlike the 041, I was able to make it enter from the left side.
And make a nice curve for both the rear brake and derailleur hoses.

The front brake hose does not touch both hoses.
The result is clean, no need of any cable handlers or stickers to protect the frame. I like it !


Then over the BB ( note the bare carbon PF30, like some brand bikes ).


Till the end of the right chainstay, where you can remove the cap and grab it easily.

Very easy.

Now the rear brake.
As some other reported already they made it much harder than it should.
Starting from the back.


It goes out below the BB, and can be directed to the downtube.


I was quite disappointed to see a bottom hatch like the 256.
However it is somehow better built here.
But after two years riding in mudland, I noticed the mud and water get inside the frame anyway.
It is finally better to drill holes or leave an easy way out for the gunk, before it stagnate and drown the bearings.
So I took it off, for now, and ride without problems.

Now comes the pain. How to get the hose in this pesky little white tube:


Here you can see the white tube through the hole of the rear derailleur.
If there is a next time, I'll start with the brake then the derailleur.

After trying various options, I took a copper wire as a tool.
It was fiddly but it went out rather easily:




Time to put the headset.
There was some play as the black top cup didn't press correctly.
Some shims came with it.



One was enough.


I put my trustworthy BBInfinite bottom bracket.
With some Loctite. With the same ceramic/stainless steel bearings I took out of my 256.

Now... the fork!
Fed up with my Lefty's issues, I wanted to be maintenance free for the fork, and go for a high end rigid.
But my LBS had something else.
He was making a very good price on a Lauf fork.
As the Lauf went out a couple of years ago, I liked the idea. So jumped on it.



I'm riding XC almost exclusively, so the 60mm are more than enough.
My wrists thank me after each ride compared to a rigid.
I went through some rocky parts too, and as someone pointed on the web you just have to adapt to it, and everything goes fine.
It shines on the cobbles too( we have quite a few of them in Belgium ).

In addition, losing about 500g on the front makes a huge difference handling the bike.
I still have to order a carbon rim, and build the front wheel( my previous front wheel has a Lefty hub).

I'm still not fond of the mad-max-like look, but I love the ride.
A chiner generates loads of questions when riding in group. Imagine a chiner with a Lauf  :D

The rest of the assembly went fine. The bar and levers.
The carbon stem I got with my 256( for two years ) had a crack on one fo the 4 screws that tighten the bar.
I took a Procraft aluminium stem. I love this brand. They make beautiful and light parts for a very reasonable price.

I didn't cut the fork tube yet totally, as the stack is 3cm lower than what I was used to.
My back doesn't look to complain on this more aggressive position, so I will cut it soon.

And here are some more pictures of the final result.




After a few hundreds of kilometers on it, some ride impressions:

I'm not sure the 12mm shorter chainstay is the only reason, but it is much more playful and easier to handle than the 256 and the 041.
I feel more with the bike, than on the bike.

But when jumping out of the saddle and hammering the pedals, the rear is flexing quite a lot. More than the 256.
Especially comparing to the stiffness of the 041 which is a blade. This is my only negative point that makes me miss my 041.
And the 27,2 mm seat tube makes it as comfortable as the 041 when eating small bumps ( the 256 definitely not ).

19
29er / After breaking my 256, here is my brand new CS-041
« on: December 18, 2015, 06:32:58 PM »
First of all some picture of the new beast  8)
I wanted it fluo green or yellow, but didn't want to deal again with the hassle of the Belgian customs, so it ended again all black.





As many others here, dealing with Peter for this frame was a pleasure.
And luckily he had it in stock.

I took most parts from the 256:
  • Lefty( freshly back from a warranty repair, the bottom piston was scratched/toast)
  • 30mm carbon wheels, with a rear DT swiss axle
  • XX1 cassette, this was my second and probably the last. Even with a new free hub, Shimano's are much cheaper
  • XTR rear derailleur and shifter
  • KMC X11 SL chain, as it was new, I reused it
  • Hope Evo E4 brakes with KCNC Razor Rotors
  • Crank brothers pedals
  • my beloved "aliexpress" carbon seat
  • stem and bar that came with my 256

Unfortunately the bottom bracket was only available in BB92 and the seatpost diameter is 27.2, not what I had previously.
  • I got a discounted Procraft seatpost from a shop here.
  • A carbon seat clamp from aliexpress
  • And had my "carpe diem" moment for the crankset and felt for a Next SL
  • An Absolute black oval of 34

It weights a nice 8.6Kg( 19 lbs ) with pedals and tire sealant.

Here are some random impressions from the build and my first rides with it:
  • The frame is clearly stiffer than the 256.
    I was used to feel a little flex when sitting just before riding. Here nothing, it is hard as a bench.
    This probably comes from a much stronger rear triangle
     
    Well, it is strange. When hammering the pedals or cornering it feels definitely stiffer, and do not forgive when you hit bigger bumps
     

     
    But at the same time, the 27.2mm seatpost is kind of elastic, and eats the small bumps
    For instance making our awful Belgian paved roads, all of a sudden, much more comfortable.
    Although, it took me a couple of rides to be used to this strange new floating feeling.
     

     
  • The oval ring, is something I would suggest all 1X riders to try.
    It is not a very expensive test and it can make a big difference(it did for me)
    Especially on steep climbs or when you push hard.
     
    As stated by Marcin from Absolute black, it definitely gives you an unfair advantage over your friends
    On the 256, I started with a 28 XX1, then moved to a 30.
     
    Then I tried the 32 oval, it was a revelation.
    But then the 4 smaller sprockets of the XX1 cassette were toast after just a year( I'll go Shimano after this one ).
    So I was definitely too small in front. And jumped directly to an oval 34(an "ovality" of 32/36)
     
    I clearly suffer more on some climbs, but I use the whole cassette evenly, and can even challenge some roadies now.

    Just have a look at the design of the BB30 ring: http://www.absoluteblack.cc/sram-oval-bb30.html
    For me it is an engineering work of art. The one I took off my 256, decorates my desk now :)


     
  • The frame arrived in perfect state, well packed and protected.
    The cable stops looks more finished than the 256.
    With various options to nicely plug the unused holes.
     
    Sadly the rear brake entry is still a simple and quite ugly hole in the frame.
    The internal routing was dead easy for the rear brake.
     
    For the derailleur, the inner hose looked well done, so I decided to try it(no frame drilling this time)
    It was very easy to route as well.
    Unfortunately the cable enters the frame on the right, and it makes a rather ugly curve, an need a sticker to protect the frame.
     

     
    Hopefully it will stand the mud I live in most of the year( I added some teflon at the cable end ).
    If not, I will go again full hosing, but it will probably be a pain to drill and route.
     

And finally some minor issues:

  • The drop out on the derailleur is different, there is no more an option to put a headless screw to tighten the nut
    And the axle seems 5mm too short, not coming flush with the nut. Not sure what I will do, but my rear-axle-peace-of-mind is gone.
     
  • The cable stop for the front derailleur is ugly and riveted( can't be removed easily ).
     

     
  • The headtube is 5mm shorter, making the lefty assembly less compact than on my 256
     

     
     

A couple more pictures before leaving:
 

 



Sorry my ex-256 colleagues  :P, but I definitely feels it as an upgrade.
It makes a more racy/radical bike.
The 256 was already great and sharp, but this one is some steps higher.
 

20
29er / Broken frame
« on: November 19, 2015, 05:14:02 AM »
Last week during my Wednesday night ride, I felt on the side with all my weight on the frame.
It happened already quite a few times, but a rock was just there to welcome my seatstay, that broke in two pieces.

Obviously my co-riders mocked its Chinese origins. Next time buy a real bike, etc.
I'm sure, under the same conditions, any of their carbon bike would had suffered the same fate.
The seatstay are the thinner tubes in general, and it was a very unlucky fall.



I wish you never hear a cracking frame noise. It is a very sad sound.

While I fixed my frame in the past, when my chainstay was hit.
This one looked impossible to fix, to then ride it with confidence.

Sooo, I contacted Peter, who happened to just have a CS-041 19" in stock :)
Hopefully he should ship it soon.
The frame, a new crank and a new seatpost depleted my road bike savings I was slowly accumulating for next spring :(


21
29er / Bended XX1 derailleur cage
« on: July 01, 2015, 10:32:01 AM »
During my last ride, a big branch found its way between the derailleur and the wheel, and bended both.

Truing the wheel was easy, only a couple of spokes were hit.

I read SRAM cage parts are not replaceable => $$$  :-\
Did someone already re-aligned a derailleur cage that was bended? If so, how?

The dropout was slightly bended too, but clearly this is not the weakest link here.
The derailleur suffered the most.

22
29er / Add some sealant in your tires, now!
« on: June 26, 2015, 04:06:54 AM »
Just a friendly reminder that we are in the summer.
And the sealant in our tires dries faster.

I had my first flat ever on a track this Wednesday.
Without any doubt because of a dry tire, although I did fill it a month or so ago.

And oddly enough, on Thursday, I got a big 5mm rusted screw planted in the same tire.
The noise of the screw hitting the chainstay is scary.

I removed the screw and put the hole down.
This time, it was full of sealant, and a fair amount of it went out, but it plugged the hole!

I then pumped the tire, with this incredible little cheap pump and finished my ride.

23
After The Ride / About living in a wet area
« on: April 24, 2015, 07:57:08 AM »
Just outside of Bristol, England

Our roads in summer:
 

Our roads in winter:
 

SamSkjord, I'm reacting a month later to your pictures.
And didn't want to hijack the "where do you live?" post

Bristol looks much like Belgium, but worse :)

Do you ride the whole year?
Do you clean your bike each time?
Do you have to change bearings(other parts?) regularly?

Are there any others who ride in the wet too(cold or warm)?
How do you cope with it?

24
29er / Chainstay badly hit during a ride
« on: February 15, 2015, 02:40:18 PM »
Not sure how this happened.
But one of the chainstay(brake side) of my 256 was hit during a ride today  :'(

I've read some car custom shops make repairs here in Belgium, but for about 250 EUR!
I guess this involve some paint work, which does not apply here, and it could cost less.

Or try a DIY repair kit such as: http://carbonmods.co.uk
They do not take any responsibility for bike frame repairs.
But they say that if you want to do it anyway. And at your own risk.
It is better to use, their fishing rod pole repair kit: http://carbonmods.co.uk/Products/fishing-rod-pole-repair-kit.aspx

Or may be simply go to an LBS?

Does anyone had to deal with this already?

25
29er / XX1 chain line on a 256 frame
« on: December 15, 2014, 05:54:46 PM »
I'm on chain worries today...

I don't know the theory behind the chain line.
And what is a good or bad chain line.
And if this plays a role in chain wear.

But it looks odd to me that the chain is straightest when on the 3rd smaller sprocket.
See the picture.

I was expecting the chain to be straight when sitting in the middle of the cassette.
Do you have the same angles?

26
29er / Flabby XX1 chain
« on: December 15, 2014, 05:45:29 PM »
My chain looks flabby when on the smaller sprocket.
Not sure it was like this before. You can see the picture.

From the second sprocket and up, the chain get straight.

I don't have a tool to check the chain wear.
But used the 12" trick, and have 305.5mm instead of the planned 304.8mm.

Should I remove one link? Or tighten something on the derailleur?

27
29er / 1X owners - How did you plug the front derailleur hole on your 256 ?
« on: November 24, 2014, 04:12:55 PM »
I removed the whole plastic guide that was sitting at the bottom of the frame.
The pipe that guides the front derailleur came with it.

Now I have a ~6mm hole, just behind the bottom bracket.
It collects all the water/mud it can.

I use a duct tape for now, but need to change it.
And was wondering if you found a more permanent way to plug it.

28
29er / Did you check your dropout screws recently? (256 frame)
« on: November 13, 2014, 05:56:16 AM »
While cleaning the rear derailleur this morning.
I noticed some play between the frame and the derailleur.
All four screws of the dropouts were lightly loose.

May be you should check yours.
Beware, the heads are Torx not Hexa.

29
Component Deals & Selection / Problem with SRAM PF30 Bottom Bracket
« on: October 28, 2014, 07:19:08 PM »
Back in June, when ordering my 256 frame, I thought PF30 is the new standard, and took this format.
Then I installed the stock SRAM PF30 that comes with the XX1 groupset.

So far so, good. No creeks or any noise, and without the need of loctite.
Spinning the pedals by hand - without the chain on - was far from smooth, but ok.

Things started to get wrong after the first real ride in the mud.
The bearings were immediately contaminated.
Spinning was sticky, and the bearings made a noise like there was sand in them.

I took the bearings out, cleaned them. And packed them with grease.
If you wonder. They were pre-loaded correctly and I don't pressure wash the bike.

Unfortunately SRAM's BB looks to be designed either for dry conditions only. Or as disposable gear you discard after a race.
A the next wet ride, the bearing were making again the scraping noise and the spin seriously degraded.
It may be a little mental-thing(like many on a bike), but having a resistance when pedalling was depressing.

So I started to look at alternative options.
And found bbinfinite.com

I liked the design immediately, and ordered one.
Mounting it was easy, and wow... what a difference!
The spin was so smooth that I made this comparison video:


Now, after a few weeks of very wet/muddy rides(see the attached picture of a soft one).
The BBinfinite is now making a light noise too(non-drive bearing).
But it keeps spinning like in the video.
Nothing compared to SRAM's noise and friction.

I returned the BB to SRAM(through bike24.com), explaining the design issue for wet rides.
They were very kind, and returned me a new BB.
Unfortunately without any word or explanation, so I guess nothing will change on SRAM's side.

30
29er / How often do you true your wheels?
« on: September 19, 2014, 08:45:17 AM »
Yesterday while putting oil on the chain, I noticed the rear wheel was not perfectly true anymore.
Over an area of 6 spokes and max 4mm out, and only minor scratches on the rim.
The front wheel is still perfect.

The last rides were rough and fast.

I contacted light-bicycle.com who built them, for advice.
And they told me that after a few rides, you need to re-true the wheelset.
While I knew I would have to learn this, I didn't expect to have to do this so often.

How often do you true your wheels?

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