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Topics - carbonazza

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31
After a very gratifying MTB build.
I got a kind of virus, and cannot think riding a road bike without building it.

My first doubt is about shifters.
Electronic or not?

Here's the first answer I got:

Personally I think Nintendo gears are the best thing since sliced toast! The price, less so :-\ and until someone starts paying me in something other than cake to ride bikes I can't justify Ultegra/dura-ace prices so Di2 105 needs to hurry on up.

Sram Red is iirc still the lightest groupset if that's your thing (I stopped being such a weight-weenie after about 30 seconds of playing with http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesLessWeight_Page.html)
Sram also have a wireless electronic groupo on the way but not till next year some time and I'm not expecting it to be cheap.

32
29er / How to setup the XX1 derailleur?
« on: August 06, 2014, 03:27:31 AM »
Setting up the XX1 derailleur, is probably easier to do than a dual-derailleur setup.
But it took me some time to get it right.

Hopefully this post will help you make your shift crisp on the XX1 derailleur quickly.

It is mainly about having the right cable tension.  If there are glitches when shifting.
If the cable is to tight, the chain will not move easily to a smaller sprocket.
If the cable is too loose, the chain will not leave the small sprocket, to the next.

While you can do some first alignments without the chain.
I found it easier to align and obviously test everything, with the chain on.


1. Align the derailleur to the small sprocket
Leave the derailleur in its default position.
The chain should be on the small sprocket(the harder to pedal one).



Adjust the Small Sprocket Stop screw(the one near the cable pulley).
And have the derailleur sprocket centered inside the chain.
May be unscrew it a little more, to move the derailleur slightly outward, to ease the shift to the small sprocket.

Turning clockwise any of the stop screw, will send the derailleur towards the center of the cassette.


2. Prepare to put the cable on


Rotate the shifter nut(where the hose arrives) clockwise, until it can't turn anymore.
And insure you have the shifter set to the small sprocket position.

Insure the hose and cable are placed correctly.
The hose fully inside both ends. In the shifter nut and the derailleur.

Pass the cable through the derailleur pulley, up to the screw.
Put some tension in the cable. But not to much.
Tighten the screw to attach the cable to the derailleur.


3. Adjust the cable tension
Start to shift. To move the chain to the second sprocket.
Unless you got the cable tension right. Chances it won't move.
Shift back.

Now, go to the shifter, and rotate the small nut.

You should hear a click, when you turn it.
Turn it, for instance 3 clicks at a time.

Then try to shift again. And check if it moves to the next sprocket.
If not, shift back, rotate again the nut(it took me about 15 nut clicks, if I remember well).
Shift again.
 
When it leaves the first sprocket.
You should be able to shift up all the range.

Fine tune the tension with the nut, so the chain move on all 11 sprockets perfectly.
Try to be rigorous with the count(3, 6, 9, etc.), so you know what tension you are at all time.
Make some tests to improve, and come back to the best position you had before.

Beware when arriving at the biggest sprocket. Do not go too far.
And send the chain in the spokes(I did it, see the next step to prevent this).

Insure the derailleur top sprocket is always at the specs vertical distance(12-16mm) with the cassette, when shifting.
To do so, adjust the screw that moves the derailleur up/down from the axle(see the first picture).


4. Align the derailleur to the big sprocket
When the chain is on the bigger sprocket.
Adjust the Large Sprocket Stop screw.
And have the derailleur sprocket centered inside the chain.


5. May be restart...
If the initial cable tension was too tight, you won't be able to unscrew more the shifter nut.
Or if you had to turn the nut too much, and want to get it better.

Insure the shifter and the nut are put back to their initial position.

Unscrew the cable from the derailleur.
If it is harder to move to smaller sprockets, loose a little the cable.
If it is hard to go to the larger sprockets, tighten a little the cable.

Restart at step 3.

I had it to tense initially. Unfortunately, I did cut the cable too early.
Now I have only 2cm cable left after the screw.
So, do not cut your cable too early.


I'm not sure if this is specific to the Gripshifter, and it won't work with the classical shifter.
Please post any easier method, or let me know if the post can be improved.

33
29er / 256 build by carbonazza
« on: July 31, 2014, 06:16:39 PM »
My 256 frame finally arrived this Tuesday(2 weeks stuck at the customs).
Unlike all others 256 here, this one came from Honsen Bikes.
Shipped on time. With a nice and professional communication with Leo there.

I started the build the same evening(well... part of the night too).
Slept a little, as I was too excited. And finished it the day after.

Our group of friends ride the Wednesday evening.
So... the question was: Go or no go with the new bike?

I did ride a Cannondale Rush for a year now( 2008 second hand - 26" - full suspension - carbon ).
This one is "New", 29er, hardtail and quite light (9.05 Kg).
Many differences at the same time. Not sure which one counts more.

As green as it was, I took it on the 35km(~21 mi) muddy, rocky & rooty ride.

It is an amazing upgrade!
It is sharp to handle, predictable, sorry for the cliché, but I feel much more in contact with the terrain.
And no one could catch me anymore in the climbs and sprints 8)

I just regret I didn't rush as usual on the very rocky or technical part of that trail.
Some silent fears in my head: What if the frame/bar/stem/seatpost break loose. What if some bolts are not tightened enough, etc.
A few rides, and this will go away.

I will add some more details of the build, pictures, parts, etc. later on.
Enough talks! Here are some pictures.







Thank you very much to the forum founders and all members, who gave me all information I needed to build my first bike!

34
29er / Do we need of a top head set plug?
« on: July 15, 2014, 10:15:38 AM »
I saw this build for Marek Konwa a Polish racer for the Olympics.
http://veloart.pl/en_project-29-konwa.html

If you look at the picture of the headset, there is no plug at the top.
To my surprise there is no plug to my Cannondale Rush either, just a plastic cap.

Is the plug just an extra security thing?
Anybody else riding without it?

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