Quote from: cmh on September 14, 2016, 02:05:51 PM

Peter at xmcarbonspeed is one of the favorites here on the forum if you're talking about suppliers for Chiner frames.

I contact him to quote a mtb wheelset but I refer about to buy a Scott Scale frame, I know it is some OFF-TOPIC.

Oh, yeah, no idea there beyond finding a local shop.

Pivot does the chainstays that way. However, the upper link is different between the Pivots and the WW frames.

Huh, well that answers my next question of whose design they're ripping off. I bet Scott and Specialized are happy to not be the only ones. 

The 041 had a bad batch with a defect on the seatpost.
It has been fixed now.

...so the question is what will break next. Maybe nothing, but it seems (based on my statistically invalid sample of 1 frame and others I've read about here) that when you sign up for a newish/early batch Chiner frame, you get to be the beta tester. The crack that showed up on the 041 happened so frequently and under such ridiculously easy riding conditions, it's pretty evident there's no real testing happening of the new frames. It's great when you have a two year warranty with a reputable seller -- but when you spend a couple months waiting for the replacement to arrive (to be fair most of the delay was waiting for a new batch with the fix) that's time you might be without a bike. Maybe the 041 will be the next 057, but my recommendation remains to wait for others to prove it and stick with the 057.

Almost looks like there should be a metal dropout on that side.  Even though I know this has been discussed before.

Get some washers to fill the gap? Seems a bit ghetto but not completely out of the range of feasible.

Another vote for BB7s. I've run them in the road and MTB version and had zero complaints. Easy to set up.

Only problem I had was an endurance race in a downpour, brake pads would wear through in a lap, and BB7s don't auto-adjust like hydros. Had to stop and adjust at the caliper to get any braking. Of course, avoid the insanity of a mudfest endurance race and you'll never have that problem.

Beyond that, I highly endorse the BB7s.

Thanks for the reply cmh. Quite honestly, I'm not looking for weight savings and I'm realistic in what I'm getting. I'm just looking to replace a frame that was broken. The most inexpensive (somewhat) way of doing that, as well as the most intriguing, is to go to a Chinese carbon vendor.  Well, I could go for a cheap nashbar/performance frame, but I don't like any options there really. I've looked at used eBay offerings, but there really hasn't been anything that was of much interest...other than a 2011 Horsethief frame and I think that was a little overpriced. Most likely the cheapest option would be to buy new, but where's the fun in that?

Yeah, as long as you're going in understanding what you're getting, there's no reason to not go with one of the proven frames. As I understand it, the 202 has been around for a long time - I almost bought one used on here when I first started looking at Chiner frames - I think it's been around longer than the 057. That probably explains why it's less expensive, but that also means it's well proven.

Regarding the cheap Nashbar/Performance frames, I had the Nashbar aluminum CX frame... no real complaints but honestly I never really loved the bike.  If you compare apples to apples, the Nashbar carbon 29er hardtail is $499 - you could get a better frame for less than that going direct.

Full disclosure: my emphasis on getting something that's a proven design comes from getting an 041 that cracked at the seat tube under a light rider on a very tame trail. It was a fairly new frame design, and I get the idea that the early adopters also get to be beta testers. Older frames like the 057, I know several folks who have that one and they aren't light and they don't ride easy trails and they have no complaints. So, my opinion is let some other fool (like me) be the beta tester, stick with something that's older and has been proven to work.

Buying used is always a crapshoot. I've had mixed results on that front as well. Some good bikes that got years of reliable service, some that weren't as good as expected.

Now as for geometry? I can't help ya there, seems to be a black art, and I find just riding the bikes to be the biggest thing. Kinda hard to do in your case!

Is your rear racesport raceking tubeless? I can't get mine tubeless. 2.2 version

Continental's XC lightweight tires have always been tricky to set up - the old SuperSport design had paper-thin sidewalls and would leak like a beast until a couple of rides and plenty of sealant finally got it to hold pressure. As for the new RaceSport, they're far better at holding pressure but I still find some of them trickier to get to seal when they're new. I've set up around 7-8 just this year, and some hold fine on the first shot and some need repressurizing - but the key is as long as you've got a good rim with a good seal, just make sure you have enough sealant, air it up and go for a ride. All the shaking of the wheel and bouncing it on the ground helps but sometimes a tire just won't properly seal up until you do a ride on it.

So if you're still having trouble running yours tubeless, put in more sealant than you would normally, air it up, use soapy water to check and make sure there aren't any big leaks, then take it out for a ride. I think you'll find it'll hold pressure much better after that.

HTH