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Messages - seahog32

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16
After The Ride / Re: Leadville 2015 - Chiner Edition
« on: August 03, 2016, 11:29:56 AM »
Belated congrats and thank you for all the valuable info. The only thing that I find to be missing is how much time if any did you take for the altitude aclimatization. I'll be riding Leadville this year in 10 days from today. I am superpumped mentally, switching between profound doubts and sheer euforia several times a day. Hell I hate waiting! I wish I was already there riding!

17
29er / Re: Jar_head's WCB-M-062
« on: July 27, 2016, 10:46:45 AM »


Does anyone have an idea how the f*** I can get the screws out without damaging the parts?  :o

Heating the screws without heating the carbon parts directly. How to do that is another question. Soldering iron??

18
29er / Re: Chinertown's 10,000th Post Giveaway!
« on: June 11, 2016, 09:50:58 AM »
But I don't need another bike!

Really, I do not need it!!

Or do I??

I really should not!

Or should I?

Maybe just one more.

Only this one and then I quit!

No, I can handle this!

Must be strong, conquer the lust!

But what if this one would be the perfect one?

There is nothing like a perfect bike!

You have plenty, enough is enough!

Repent your sins! Fight the greed!

Oh why oh why am I so weak?!

There is no salvation for me, I'll burn in hell for eternity.

Oh WTF!

ENTER!



19
29er / Re: BB30to24 bottom bracket Problems
« on: May 02, 2016, 03:50:32 PM »
BSA is my prefered type BB. If nothing else, it is the "devil" I am familiar with. Servicing is super easy too. That said, in the past I've been looking at a frame available with PF30 only and when I expressed my doubts about it this one was suggested as bomb-proof solution:

http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/

For other different reason the deal was never closed. That means I can't speak from personal experience. What kind of adaptor/conversion kit did you use if I may ask?

20
29er / Re: Broken frame
« on: November 30, 2015, 02:53:02 PM »
I am not an expert on carbon fibre bike frames. It can be just the image quallity too. However, this is not how I remember broken composite materials to look like (simple fiberglass, kevlar and kevlar/carbon mix of racing kayaks' shells). Without trying to stir any shit, does it not look like there is too much of resin and very little of fibre in that broken seat stay? Or am I completely wrong?

Hmm, not sure. Hard for me to see. Is that a known cost cutting tactic in the carbon industry?

"Known" - I would not go that far. Let's say conceivable. But more than blunt cost cutting it may be simply a manufacturing issue. The quality of any composite material, no matter the fibre part of it, is measured as the fibre:resin ratio. The higher, the better. Basically what you desire is the resin to penetrate in between the fibres with no "empty" space left and then as much of the resin as possible to be removed again. Vacuum is used for high-end boat shells. Probably quite labourious, time consuming and requiring sofisticated machinery. Don't know exactly how much it all applies to bike frames but would not imagine there should be much of a difference.

Again, not an expert, just my 2 cents.

21
29er / Re: Broken frame
« on: November 30, 2015, 12:33:08 PM »
I am not an expert on carbon fibre bike frames. It can be just the image quallity too. However, this is not how I remember broken composite materials to look like (simple fiberglass, kevlar and kevlar/carbon mix of racing kayaks' shells). Without trying to stir any shit, does it not look like there is too much of resin and very little of fibre in that broken seat stay? Or am I completely wrong?

22
After The Ride / Re: Chinertown Strava Group?
« on: November 22, 2015, 06:04:10 PM »
May I join even if I don't own a "chiner"?

After some soul searching I decided to go with an alloy frame early this year. It might have been partially that I am not quite comfortable with this disposable first world culture. Although, shamefully, my choice was hardly any more ecological going for a relatively expensive titanium. Moreover, I did not even build it from scratch. Canadian import regulations simply favour complete bikes (as long as they are "made in the US") - sigh.

23
29er / Re: Craig's .057
« on: July 22, 2015, 10:48:00 AM »
Great video. But wait! Building a bike while not drinking a single beer? Is that even legal?

25
I am using both kind of brakes regularly. I don't feel any particular need to play an advocate to either of the sides. I would be similarly likely to point out advantages of disk brakes on a traditionalist road bike forum. I have no intention trying to change the minds of people who have already made them up. I simply believe that both sides need to be heard before making a decision. What I wrote above was just a short list of concerns that you can typically hear in the road cycling world that someone not quite familiar with road bikes may want to take in consideration before jumping on the train. I personally  find some of them a bit ridiculous. Sorry if I did not make myself clear enough about that.

That said, I must admit that I am actually one of those who find the look of disk brakes on a road bike to be "wrong". That is of course completely irrational view. I mentioned that one just to show that some arguments against them are rather laughable and I am mentioning it again to show that I may be biased. On the other hand, I got quite comfortable using disc brakes on my commuter hybrid (Spesh Crosstrail) with a no-name Chinese carbon (MTB) fork. If anybody is interested, my commute in the morning includes 700 meters over less than 10 km of a continuous descend. Due to shortage of time I do that on a highway while coming home in the afternoon I enjoy the luxury of a mixture of paved back roads, gravel FSR's and singletrack trails. The point of "knowing how to use"  hydraulic brakes on a long descend is quite obvious. However, sometimes it is not reasonably safe for me to pass those pesky logging trucks whose (strangely sane) drivers insist on not going any faster than 60km/h on that descend and thus I am forced to drag/ride the brakes whether I like it or not. The discs tend to get quite hot in the process (to the point that the spit boils on them instantly). Never had any problems with brakes performance but would not be comfortable pushing them much further (like on a descend twice that long). Those are MTB brakes, even if rather cheap ones (Shimano M446 if I remember correctly), though, and there is/will be a significant push to make the existing/coming dedicated road bike disc brakes as light and generally as small as reasonable possible. The placement of the reasonability line is rather uncertain at this point IMO. Hence the overheating concern.

It is an indisputable fact that the industry is moving towards road disc brakes. What are the incentives for doing that should stay open for another thread if any one is interested to start it. I am certainly not hearing too many demands for them from the road cyclists but maybe I am struck by selective deafness or some other condition middle aged men are prone to. My wife would be happy to give you the full list, I'm sure.  Anyway, the industry will keep coming with new stuff. Whether it is a real improvement only the time can always tell. Btw. our LBS owner just came back from some bike expo and is raving about the new S-Works Allez. For those who are unfamiliar with the Spesh lineup, Allez used to be the cheap, alloy alternatives to the top of the line carbon road racing frames. Well, not anymore. These frames are supposedly  as light as the carbon models now and likely stiffer. Not trying to bash the carbon here, just a response to the remark that road pros used to be against the carbon when it was first introduced.


I personally am unaware of any disc carbon road bike fork failures. That comes with them being untested in the real (road cycling) world. And sorry, cyclocross does not count. Bunch of short steep hills is not a very typical course profile in road cycling. Strangely, and I am actually honestly surprised in this case, not all cyclocross riders are switching to discs either now when they are UCI legal.


Whether one can and will trust the strength of a carbon fibre fork in general and which fork that would be in particular is a question I leave open, too. I am no hater of China-direct carbon and I think it is a great alternative to the hugely overpriced (and similarly China-made) brandname carbon parts. Maybe I am just not an early adopter. Again, everything I wrote here should be taken only as a food for for thought. I am not speaking from any position of authority. If you are ready then by all means go for it. We need the real world testers after all.

Lastly, before I forget, English is not my first language and, chronologically speaking, not my second, third or forth language either. I am greatly thankful for the free English lesson offered as well as any other that may come in the future.

26
Hi

My name is Karl and I am a roadie (as we say at Roadies Anonynous meetings) and here are my 2 cents from a roadie's perspective.

Road bikes with disk breaks look weird. Now that may be a ridiculous argument but I am very sure that all of you have noticed that a bike look of which you like rides way better. Anyway, this does not seem to bother any of the participant in this thread so we can move on.

Disk breaks are noisy. I don't mean to say horribly noisy but you may/will be surprised by the subtle noises that on a MTB are completely overshadowed by all the trail noises or even by riding knobby tires on the pavement. I am not talking about misalignments affecting the functionality so this is just a warning and we can move further on to the more serious objections.

Disc breaks are not widely used hence not well tested on road bikes. There is a thread on this forum regarding a rigid mtb fork failure. Typical road forks (and to some extent chain- and seatstays too) are way thinner than their mtb counterparts which allows for less real estate to beef them up structurally. Do you feel like relying integrity of your bones and possibly more on untested anonymous chinese products? Crushes are less common, in my case anyway, than when riding mtb's but speeds are much higher and possible consequences more serious. Just a food for thought, you don't need to stone me (yet). I myself am riding a no-name chinese carbon fibre fork on my commuter/cross bike. However, it is a sturdy mtb rigid fork ridden with 40 mm semi-slick tires. It would feel and look inappropriet on my light road bike.

Now the most important issue of the road disc breaks is their functionality. The common argument is the stopping power followed closely by "modulation". Trust me that you can easily lock up your wheels using the common road breaks so that should be no objective. With one exeption though which are the carbon fibre rims in wet conditions. If you are planning on riding your road bike in pouring rain regularly and you insist on using carbon wheels on those days then discs may really be the only borderline sane way to go. Modulation is in my personal opinion more a marketing slogan than a real argument but you may feel different about it. Admittedly, it can be difficult to get used to the regular road calipers for someone used to the disc break feel only.

Finally, if we are talking hydraulic disc breaks, there is the issue of their overheating to the point of failure. Depends on what do you expect to use you road bike for but in the "real" road biking the descends are often way longer  + speeds much higher than what you may be accustomed to as a mountain biker. Road components tend to be smaller due to our obsession with grams and aerodynamics. This likely makes them less effective at dissipating the heat. I don't need to preach to the choir here what are the consequences of the boiling break fluid.



27
29er / Re: Anyone ride rigid? (broken fork)
« on: April 25, 2015, 03:36:21 PM »
Just a few thoughts, mostly answers to the claims on the advantage of brand carbon parts in comparison to the no-name Chinese carbon.

Unlike metals and alloys, carbon fibre coposites' strength characteristics change depending on orientation of the fibres. Layout of the carbon sheets should be adjusted to the direction of forces that the parts (in this case the bike parts) will be exposed to. Looking at the photos of the broken fork it looks like the fibres simply follow the usual basic crisscross pattern. That is of course hard to say based just on the pictures. What the big name bike manufacturers state is that their designers spend significant amount of time and brain power measuring and/or calculating those forces and applying the ensuing knowledge to the bike design. That well may be true in the top of the line products but allow me to be a little skeptical when speaking about anything other that the WC level stuff. IMO in most cases the layers of the material are more likely simply multiplied in the areas of increased stress.
This can be probably done even without any real engineering expertise simply using common sense, preferably of someone who spends at least some time riding and thinking about bicycles. That is what we should and possibly even can expect from the better of the generic carbon fibre parts made in China. We can also assume that these parts are made in the same factories where the big brands are having their parts made or at least in operations started and run by people who were at some point involved in manufacturing of the brand name products. In other words, they should possess the necessary know-how and skills.
The other issue is the QC. The big brand manufacturers likely do test their products on regular basis as they claim to to assure the manufacturing does not drift too far from the original designer's vision. Frankly, this is unlikely to happen in operations with a limited margin of profit and this will always be and inherent risk in buying inexpensive no-name parts.
However, whoever thinks that his particular fork or frame passed the same stress testing he can see in youtube videos, is badly mistaken. And he better be! Carbon composite materials are all subjects to material fatigue and the tests are intended to expose the products to the use and abuse they can expect over their life time ( as in "life time warranty", i.e. products life time, not yours). I certainly would not like to ride a fork that passed that testing.
Which brings me to the bottom line. Nothing lasts for ever. Neither me nor you nor this whole universe. Not even that newest shiny carbon fibre thingy you've bought for your hard earned cash. Even the big name products fail and sometimes they fail quite spectacularly. Yes, you get what you pay for and no, you can never have all the information you would like to.  There is no reason for bashing the no-name made-in-China stuff as there is no reason to idolize it. Everybody's decisions must be conscious but nobody can know everything. Ultimately, life is a game of chance. One needs to handle his chips wisely but everybody will have only as much fun as he dares to. As long as the laws of thermodynamics are right, at the end the house always wins anyway.

28
29er / Frame size/fit
« on: January 15, 2015, 02:43:48 PM »
I've been sifting through different threads on this forum trying to figure out what size of frame may be the best for me. Maybe it would not be a bad idea to have a separate thread where owners can list their (bike relevant) body measurements and the type and size of frame they have and how happy they are with their choice. I think this could be helpful for us newbies. I would suggest to keep it very simple and technical. List your type of frame, its size, how tall you are, what is your inseam (standing barefoot, crotch to the floor) and how happy you are with your frame size or whether you would pick a different size next time, plus/minus anything else you feel may be important to know.

Thanks in advance and my apologies if similar theard already exists and I just did not manage to find it yet.

29
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Kevlar Carbon Fiber Rims
« on: December 04, 2014, 01:15:29 PM »
Following is what I (think to) know about Kevlar coming from kayak racing:

Kevlar is lighter and stronger than carbon. Kevlar fibre of a nominal length and diameter is lighter and able to hold more weight than a carbon fibre of the same parameters. However, Kevlar is way more flexible than carbon and kayak hulls built from Kevlar only have unsufficient rigidity assuming the same minimal amount of resin (the less resin, the better, lighter boat) . The result is that kayak hulls are buit with mixture of kevlar and carbon fibres. The ratios vary based on the purpose of the boat. Sprinters need to be super rigid (built mostly of carbon), marathon boats don't need that much rigidity, light weight and resistance to some abuse are desired, hence Kevlar is the material of choice. In the real world it is probably always a mixture of both types of fibres with every manufacturer swearing by its own formula.

How does this translate in bikes and bike wheels I am not too sure. My feeling is that Kevlar would make them too flexible.

That's my $0.02.

30
29er / Re: Best frame for a climber/road defector
« on: November 30, 2014, 10:44:12 AM »
To cover both ends fully you may consider a 2x10 or 2x11 setup.

I find the 2x11 setup unnecessary for my daily riding, however, I may appreciate it on a occasional marathon ride. Guess I should do my own research but what is there available in that group?

Quick search seems to be showing shimano xtr only and it is quite pricy, to put it mildly. Too pricy for me to buy both sram 1x11 and shimano 2x11 drivetrains. Would the shimano 2x11 crankset work with the sram 1x11 chain? Just a thought. Probably too much of a hassle to install and uninstall the front shifter/internal routing cable/front derailleur for that purpose.

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