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CX-Rays are the gold standard. I’d be confident that they will withstand pretty much anything you throw at them.
...
What I can say: Superlight 1.5mm cross section spokes like DT Revolutions and Sapim Lasers lack the stiffness that is needed for heavier riders IME. Especially on the rear wheel.

That is some confusing use of words. Just to be sure, you meant to say that CX-Rays, while being able to withstand anything you throw at them, lack the stiffness that is needed for heavy riders ... especially on the rear wheel. Right?

Just asking, as Lasers and CX-Rays are supposed to have the same cross sectional area (which means exact same stiffness). Should be similar or the same with Revos and DT's CX-Ray counterpart.
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Chinese cycling clothes
« Last post by pushpush on Today at 03:26:30 PM »
I know that many people speak highly of the Cheji bibs. I purchased two pairs and didn't like either of them. I wore each once and then gave them away because I knew that I would never reach into my kit drawer and choose them among the others I have.

The premium YKYW bibs have been the best I have found on Alix so far. I would purchase those again if the prices ever come back down.

Experience has taught me that there are lots of places to save money. Bibs and brakes are not those places. Buy the good stuff.

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This post seems to stop working on occasion.
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Seatpost Clamp Mods & Final Build Weight – X68 Update

As I mentioned in earlier posts, I’ve been working on modding the seatpost to refine the setup and shave off some extra weight. Here’s the latest:

For the front clamp, I sourced an M5 barrel nut sized 8.5mm x 13.5mm. It’s a bit smaller in diameter than the original (which was around 10mm, but in M6 size). Couldn’t find a 10mm M5 version anywhere, but this one works fine despite the slightly looser fit. The original nut was also longer and had an angled end for aesthetics — not critical functionally, but worth noting.

Everything was cleaned and reassembled using:
   •   Grease on all threads and contact points.
   •   Carbon paste on the saddle rail clamping area.

The front yoke came threaded, but since the clamp force is between the bolt head and barrel nut, those threads aren’t ideal. You’d normally want to either drill the yoke to clear the threads or use a bolt with an unthreaded section where it passes through. That said, I made it work for now without issue.

Saddle setup:
   •   Saddle leveled precisely.
   •   Rear bolt torqued to 5–5.5 Nm with a touch of blue Loctite for added security.
   •   Final seatpost weight: 128.4g after all mods.
   •   40g shaved off total with the seatpost + saddle changes.

Took the X68 out again for a ride this evening — everything held up perfectly. Clamp still solid post-ride. This style of yoke clamp (similar to Darimo’s design clamp which is torqued to 4nm)and like the rest of the bolts on my bike (stem, top cap, seatpost clamp), I always double-check torque and occasionally use blue Loctite where needed.

Crank bolts also holding firm, no movement or loosening.

With these mods, the bike now sits at 6.45 kg. No further changes planned — happy with the setup as it is.

I’ll be trying the 50/60 XMC wheels once they land. They were originally for the SL8 but I’ll run them on the X68 first. With them lighter cassette , the weight should drop to around 6.35 kg. Will report back after testing.

All well had a ride out again all good no issues so far to report!
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
« Last post by Hmpf on Today at 02:34:24 PM »
Ah, I know what you mean. I didn't have a screw with a narrower head either. It's just a question of appearance.

And I didn't even have an additional top cap. And you don't need one. I've been riding it for 5,000 km now and have been able to adjust the headset well.

I also swapped the compression plug for a shorter one, which fitted better.

Don't forget to install the fork cone and the centering ring at the top.
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Chinese cycling clothes
« Last post by jhearrtot on Today at 02:17:29 PM »
Something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001080825421.html
Or are these not the pads you're all talking about

the bib is nice but that red pad seems rough-ish to me. i have a similar pad from thinkrider but it was grey and i didn't like that, was prone to chafing even when using chamois creme.
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The inside looks both great and absolutely terrible. Very confusing.
There are clear signs of bladder use [...]
Yep, top tube, head tube and even chainstays look surprisingly clean compared to the horror of the BB area, and the downtube where for some weird reason they used a bladder... and apparently nowhere else ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Very confusing indeed.
Tried to find some models with EPS molding but found nothing that matched my requirements.
I considered sending it back and took contact with the seller. But the shipping cost and hassle to get back the import duties put me off and I decided to give it a try anyways (I've ridden frames that looked probably as bad inside a few years ago, including trail/enduro ones, this one might crack, we'll see).
That said I will for sure investigate more for the next build (if ever there is one).

You also bought a gravel bike to commute on the road.
Well, I guess should have been more accurate in the OP.
There's "road" and there's "norwegian road" :P There are some clean segments of asphalt, but it also includes gravel segments, a good bunch of sidewalks in bad shape littered with manholes, cracks and potholes, and all other kind of not so nice surfaces (including when they scrape and redo the top layer that's been damaged by the snow trucks during the winter...). Clearly not an XC track but it's nice with a slightly overbuilt and more forgiving frame (I would not even dare to think of putting my road bike through the same itinerary).
Also: winter, when everything is covered in a hazardous snow and ice and I put on Suomi Routa TLR 50-622 spikes so I needed clearance up to 50mm.
And there's rainy fall too when I mount huge mud guards (not even sure there's something nearly equivalent to mount on road bikes).
Gravel for commuting on the road can make sense depending on your local conditions.

Why not get a Long teng 301, for eg?
The long teng 301 and bikes with the same geo still have a good 3cm lower stack, which for some reason don't bother me when doing a proper road ride (I have a Merida Reacto for that), but really kill my upper body and wrists with my ~10kg backpack (laptop, lock, change, rain clothes, repair stuff...).
It might not show too much on the picture but I'm already running 5cm of spacers under the stem (which is already a respectable tower :P). Achieving the same high front end on a 3cm "lower frame", would be... nope.

I do like the colour though. Although solid white is probably the worst colour for a commuter bike.
It's "pearl white", a kind of glossy, glittery white. You sure see quickly when it needs a quick wash ;D

Bonus: some more pictures
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Flat pedal reccomendations
« Last post by AzureEssence on Today at 01:39:02 PM »
I've tried quite a few

Shanmashi (burgtec mk4 ripoffs I think) - seem good quality but super small, i put them on my wife's bike

MZYRH 326 (vault ripoff) - exactly like a vault, pins slightly different

MZYRH 327 - original design, I run these on my Surly Krampus, no issues at all.

MZYRH 327 are probably my top recommendation.
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Who broke the page
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You're a tank. Sapim CX ray is the gold standard. I wouldnt buy something that says hyperlite for a 88kg rider, just like you dont put a tutu on a chihuahua.

Such a dumb and empty blabla...

Alpina is not a beginner in spokes.
Specifically they use exactly the same steel alloy as Sapim  by checking the data sheets and material properties.
Their manufacturing looks more smooth and clean than Sapim spokes.


However,  the hyperlites are the pendant to CX Ray super spokes and I wouldn't recommend them for 88kg.
The Ultralites can be an alternative choice, they are corresponding to the CX Ray

Depending on the hub geometry it can also make sense to think about CX sprint on the rear drive.

Alpina spokes are legit in any case. I already built wheels with them and they are absolutely fine. No difference to Sapim. Neither during the build nor afterwards in the riding.
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