CX-Rays are the gold standard. I’d be confident that they will withstand pretty much anything you throw at them.
...
What I can say: Superlight 1.5mm cross section spokes like DT Revolutions and Sapim Lasers lack the stiffness that is needed for heavier riders IME. Especially on the rear wheel.

That is some confusing use of words. Just to be sure, you meant to say that CX-Rays, while being able to withstand anything you throw at them, lack the stiffness that is needed for heavy riders ... especially on the rear wheel. Right?

Just asking, as Lasers and CX-Rays are supposed to have the same cross sectional area (which means exact same stiffness). Should be similar or the same with Revos and DT's CX-Ray counterpart.

This post seems to stop working on occasion.

Ah, I know what you mean. I didn't have a screw with a narrower head either. It's just a question of appearance.

And I didn't even have an additional top cap. And you don't need one. I've been riding it for 5,000 km now and have been able to adjust the headset well.

I also swapped the compression plug for a shorter one, which fitted better.

Don't forget to install the fork cone and the centering ring at the top.

The inside looks both great and absolutely terrible. Very confusing.
There are clear signs of bladder use [...]

Yep, top tube, head tube and even chainstays look surprisingly clean compared to the horror of the BB area, and the downtube where for some weird reason they used a bladder... and apparently nowhere else ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Very confusing indeed.
Tried to find some models with EPS molding but found nothing that matched my requirements.
I considered sending it back and took contact with the seller. But the shipping cost and hassle to get back the import duties put me off and I decided to give it a try anyways (I've ridden frames that looked probably as bad inside a few years ago, including trail/enduro ones, this one might crack, we'll see).
That said I will for sure investigate more for the next build (if ever there is one).

You also bought a gravel bike to commute on the road.

Well, I guess should have been more accurate in the OP.
There's "road" and there's "norwegian road" There are some clean segments of asphalt, but it also includes gravel segments, a good bunch of sidewalks in bad shape littered with manholes, cracks and potholes, and all other kind of not so nice surfaces (including when they scrape and redo the top layer that's been damaged by the snow trucks during the winter...). Clearly not an XC track but it's nice with a slightly overbuilt and more forgiving frame (I would not even dare to think of putting my road bike through the same itinerary).
Also: winter, when everything is covered in a hazardous snow and ice and I put on Suomi Routa TLR 50-622 spikes so I needed clearance up to 50mm.
And there's rainy fall too when I mount huge mud guards (not even sure there's something nearly equivalent to mount on road bikes).
Gravel for commuting on the road can make sense depending on your local conditions.

Why not get a Long teng 301, for eg?

The long teng 301 and bikes with the same geo still have a good 3cm lower stack, which for some reason don't bother me when doing a proper road ride (I have a Merida Reacto for that), but really kill my upper body and wrists with my ~10kg backpack (laptop, lock, change, rain clothes, repair stuff...).
It might not show too much on the picture but I'm already running 5cm of spacers under the stem (which is already a respectable tower ). Achieving the same high front end on a 3cm "lower frame", would be... nope.

I do like the colour though. Although solid white is probably the worst colour for a commuter bike.

It's "pearl white", a kind of glossy, glittery white. You sure see quickly when it needs a quick wash

Bonus: some more pictures

Who broke the page