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21
Those photos are from BigRock crankset
You're right. I didn't realize that.
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May I ask what bikes you have and what the built cost you?

My main gravel bike is a Ceccotti RF25 gravel frameset (also know an SPCycle G056). I picked that up for about $400 USD during the 11.11 sale. I'm running LTwoo eGR which I picked up for $300 USD during the Black Friday sale. In terms of parts, I'm probably in the $1500-$1600 USD range including all the carbon bits and other components (lightweight cassette, carbon crankset, etc.). Depending on which wheelset+tire combo I use, my bike fluctuates in weight between 7.5kg and less than 8kg.

My other gravel bike is an older CX carbon frame that I use spare/leftover parts on. Even that bike in a 1x configuration is 7.9kg with a mix-n-match of Shimano & LTwoo groupset and whatever spare parts I have laying around.

If I actually took my gravel bike weight reduction seriously with higher end lightweight components, I'm sure I could build out a frame in the sub 7kg mark.  ;)
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A small issue with m Tagoola all-road wheels. The surface coating of the rims suck. I find them hard to clean. What might require a damp cloth to wipe down for my other wheelsets, I have to use an alcohol spray and several passes to wipe the Tagoola wheels from tubeless sealant or stray grease.
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« Last post by verttl on Today at 12:42:06 PM »
You need to remove the coin, silly!
Sorry. I wanted to resist, but you tempted me ...
(Aka: Look what you made me do)


Just and armchair engineer diagnosis here: A few posts above, there is a picture of what seem to be spacers with the same pattern as the spider's interface. Maybe those have to be used? Really just guessing, I don't have the cranks.
Those photos are from BigRock crankset. I just recieved mine today and they came with spacers for spider.

From what I can tell these seem to be good quality and spindle isn't out of spec like some have reported to be the  case with other brands 24mm cranksets. I measured the q-factor to be ~146mm wich is ~1mm wider than advertised but it's still narrower than most cranksets offer.
Unfortunately I can't install them since bb I ordered is stuck in the mail sorting center. Hopefully I'm able to figure how to install them and chainline hits the spot.
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i live in the bay area and honestly see a good amount of unbranded open mould, defo a handful everytime I go for a quick 20-50 mile ride. Then again the cycling community here is huge. I see lots and lots of high end bikeporn worthy s-works and boutique brands, I have also seen yoeleo, velobuild, etc etc

I noticed that the tech bro crowd lend themselves to buying top spec S-works/Trek stuff, but also building up their own bikes from DTC western brands and chiner builds. I think their jobs select for people that like tinkering, but they also have enough money to blow on a dentist bike
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I really like the features of this frame (tire clearance, mounting points, internal storage) but I'm looking for something with less aggressive geometry. Any suggestions?
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-TT-023
« Last post by Mubaslat on Today at 12:37:13 PM »
That sounds interesting.
Please take a photo of all the parts of the headset and then I can label them for you in order.

The fork steerer should be short enough so that the top cap does not (!) touch the compression plug.
It's just like the road bike, except that the stem is at a slight angle. You still have to cut the steerer straight.

Thanks!
The part I'm thinking about is the one drew a red line around, is this part really needed when I attach/tighten the top cover (green) towards the compression plug.
As you can see there is a standard bolt included, not a bolt that fits "good" in to the top cover (green).

Thanks!

28
I use Merlin CDR-2 wheelset but I guess the difference is in the spokes. And what 100 € wheels you're talking about? Off course carbon spokes are stiffer but everything depends on lacing and tensioning.

What kind of wheels did you had previous to using the Tagoola DAO50s? Interesting that you say that they are stiffer, do you have carbon spokes on the 100 euro wheels or also steel? for me the Carbon spoke wheels are stiffer than the Tagoola. Also with the same power output, only not the same speed.
29
No problem with sram axs FD with 48/32?

I use the Praxis rings and have been running them since Feb 2022. I've had one chain drop ever--and it was last week, and it dropped from the big to the little ring when I hit a washed-out section of road at like 20mph. I do use an OSPW for more chain wrap since I'm technically above the capacity of the RD on the gravel bike. On the gravel, I am using the old D1 force wide FD and max RD.

For road use, the 10-33 setup is stock with Rival derailleurs other than those same Praxis rings.

Both of my bikes are running chaincatchers and are band on FD, so they are pretty stiff, which makes a difference with AXS FDs.
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Flat pedal reccomendations
« Last post by ejump0 on Today at 11:03:29 AM »
on aliEx, look for promend m86c-ti or r87c-ti .
very light, sealed bearings, n removable pins. the pins arent sharp too
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