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41
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Last post by coffeebreak on April 25, 2024, 12:35:48 PM »
Re: Aluminum tape/foil sandwiched between fork and c-ring. It works in a pinch - I tried it on VB GF002 which had the infamous headset play issue like many other VB bikes. The play disappeared to an extent but it never felt *right*. The issue completely went away with new c-ring that VB sent after a year. The new ring has an extra cutout v/s old ring and is probably made of softer material too.
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: New Gravel Frame Ican Graro
« Last post by maui400 on April 25, 2024, 12:25:24 PM »
Could be, but I'm not sure about this logic. Then a 0mm setback post would be around +10mm in direction of the head tube. And what about seat posts you can buy separately? They don't have a frame as reference, but still have a defined setback.

Edit: Regarding your theory the setback will be dependent from seat height for bent seat tubes.
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: First gravel build project
« Last post by coffeebreak on April 25, 2024, 12:23:37 PM »
GRX is always ideal, but if you want something cable actuated that’s cheaper, I’m pretty happy with the MicroShift Sword/Juintech F1 setup on my CFR707.

Seconded. Sword is such a bargain. Those shifters are fantastic and defy the price point they are sold at. Compared to LTwoo that groupset is better in every possible way. I went even cheaper and paired the shifters with Onirii hydro-mech calipers. Compressionless housing is a must but Microshift thoughtfully includes a pretty long length housing in the box. 10 speed simplicity. Cheap chains, cheap cassettes.
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Definitely not clear coated....only buffed to the point where it's been rubbed through to the white base coat in areas .   You figure the amount of time that they could have saved buffing it out by clear coating it instead would have been more cost effective in the end

Do you think it's possible to apply the clear coat yourself with a spray can afterwards, so that it looks like a professional job?

I never done a paint job before. But if they don't use a clear coat, the base paint should be a 2K colour, right. So sanding before applying the clear coat is required as far as I understand.
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: First gravel build project
« Last post by Fenrir on April 25, 2024, 12:02:50 PM »
Thanks everybody for your answers, I think I'll go for a 2nd hand GRX, I've looked on the french 2nd hand app and I think I can put one together for 250€ (only the right shifter seems difficult to find) so that will save me a lot of trouble (coming from Ultegra Di2 I suck at indexing  ::)). I have to decide between 1x11 or 2x11 now...  ;D

As for the frame choice, I've seen on other posts pics of GR048 builds which seems more upright and would probably fit more my "MTB-lite" vision. Geometry here https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=644f94235e3f37001b6d6b2c,653c32bf2f8b78001ad09921,

@Serge_K : a bit too "wavy" for me, but thanks for sharing  :)

Any inputs regarding the frameset ? That's the first thing I need to order. I see it's made by Tantan, Seraph, SP cycle, any recommendations for the manufacturer ?

Thanks
Alex
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Last post by TidyDinosaur on April 25, 2024, 11:55:41 AM »
But then again: if it makes no difference, why are there 2 different ring supplied in the set in the picture? ???
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Last post by TidyDinosaur on April 25, 2024, 11:54:14 AM »
Lots of people have no play, so maybe it's just tolerances. Not saying one is wrong and one is right. I'm just going to try the other one and see if it helps.
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« Last post by RoadieMKD on April 25, 2024, 11:51:05 AM »
Here is a picture that illustrates what I was trying to say. On the left is the setup for internal cabling and on the right for external. Hygge has supplied the right C-ring, so that might not be  the ideal combination.
Judging from the picture it also looks like the C-ring (if you can call it that) for internal cables is higher. That could also explain the rubbing of the lower cap on the frame with the C-ring on the right. ...


So they are supplying the wrong ring? Even if so, the ring provided should still hold the steerer tube snug to eliminate play. I have contacted them with this issue with a picture attached of the "starry" ring that is on the left column in the picture. Will see what the response will be.
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I have a ER9 and RD code starts with 250124

Curious which seller you bought your ER9 groupset from? Also report back if you have any issues. If the 250124 is a newer batch with silent revisions, perhaps those are the groupsets to buy?

I somewhat have this love/distrust with the ER9. Now that my ER9 is setup properly, functionality-wise it's been running great. The way I can hammer the shifts on the fly is awesome in conjunction with a close ratio 12 speed cassette, finely tuned cog spacing and gear protection helps so I can just focus on my cadence. I rode my mechanical Ultegra the other day and totally forgot I had no gear protection (shifted into big/big) and I was wondering why my computer wasn't seeing the shifters? Lol

Only if LTwoo weren't such dumba**es and put a bit more effort in refining their product. They could literally sweep the market if the ER9/X was far more reliable. All these user reports of failing RDs and lack of support just undermines a potentially good product. Hell, I'd pay $100 USD extra if they could improve their quality assurance and customer support. The fact I can use 7-13 speed cassettes and use run-of-the-mill rechargeable batteries is enough for me to pay extra.
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So.... After a few rides.
These have really really good stopping power.
They can take 2.3mm rotors, even though I'm running with standard 1.8mm.
I've seen these calipers specced with 2.3rotors and e-bike sensor equipped Moto style levers.

I'm actually much more impressed than I expected after the power ratio estimations.
Super light lever action, very easy to lock up, but really controllable.

ztto teams have quad 16mm pistons, so bigger, but the lever lets them down a bit.
Still good reports for them, but I'd still probably recommend these over the ztto teams.

Annoyingly 1 of the main underside lever pivot bolt has fallen out on my last ride, so 100% get locktite on the bolts if you get a set.
Only noticed as the reach adjustment started wandering inward.
Will be easy enough to find a substitute bolt tho.

Thanks for the loctite tip, I will do that.

Are you still running these? Any other tips or tricks? Bleed tips? I have mine installed, just need to bleed them as they were shipped Euro style (right lever front and left lever rear) and I had to swap the hoses. Running with TRP 2.3mm rotors and Cooma Gold metallic pads.
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