Author Topic: VPACE C2M build by cassandracomplx  (Read 37318 times)

Carbon_Dude

Re: VPACE C2M build by cassandracomplx
« Reply #15 on: June 24, 2015, 07:04:09 PM »
Did you get your raceking race sports to go tubeless?

...I didn't try.
It must be very difficult to seal the Conti tires >:(
Maybe I switch to Michelin 26" latex tubes...

My Continental X-kings were easy enough.
2019 Stumpjumper Expert 29/27.5+
2017 Santa Cruz Stigmata
2017 Trek Stache 9.8 (29+)
2016 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Carbon Comp 6Fattie (27.5+) (Sold)
2016 Trek Stache 9 (29+) w/upgrades (Sold)
2014 -036 Full Suspension Chiner (Sold)
2013 -057 Hardtail Carbon Chiner (Sold)
Atlanta, GA

cmh

Re: VPACE C2M build by cassandracomplx
« Reply #16 on: June 24, 2015, 08:42:04 PM »
I really like that riding position.
In the early 90s, I had more saddle to bar drop:
only 9-10cm head tube, short fork length (and a veeeery long 140mm Syncros Stem… ;D)

That bike looks haaawt! :D

I got a chance to demo a Specialized Epic World Cup recently with a very similar setup. XL frame with the saddle way up, and the stem slammed and inverted to get lower. Looked almost like Jaroslav Kulhavy rides, and I thought it'd be pretty freaky, but I actually REALLY liked it. Felt great, loved the position, and I went *fast* - like faster than I'd gone before on trails I knew well. Probably wouldn't be great on longer rides or technical terrain, but I didn't care. Would have one now if it weren't for the shocking $10k price tag!

Kicking around the idea of trying to duplicate that position on an 036 FS 29er frame.

cmh

Re: VPACE C2M build by cassandracomplx
« Reply #17 on: June 24, 2015, 08:49:58 PM »
It must be very difficult to seal the Conti tires >:(
Maybe I switch to Michelin 26" latex tubes...

Conti RaceSport tires can be tough to run tubeless - I've run the RaceSports, and their sidewalls are as thin as paper. The previous SuperSport versions were even worse, I'd sometimes need double the sealant to get them to seal up the first time, and they usually wouldn't seal until they were ridden. Setting them up the first time, you'd see little dots of sealant forming all over the sidewall! The RaceSport isn't quite as bad as the old SuperSports, but still can be a challenge. The "standard" Conti tires, or the ProTection - I've found those much easier to set up tubeless because of the thicker sidewalls.

With the RaceKing RaceSports and ZTR Crests, I'd say there's no reason you can't run tubeless, it's just going to take some doing. Start with a double dose of Stan's sealant (two scoops or two of the small bottles) and give it at least a ride or two before they seal up fully. You'll want to bring a pump with you on the first ride, at the very least. Once it does set up, though - those things can be sublime. Those super thin sidewalls and no tubes means one of the most crazy supple MTB tires I've ever ridden.

RS VR6

Re: VPACE C2M build by cassandracomplx
« Reply #18 on: June 24, 2015, 09:08:01 PM »
I really like that riding position.
In the early 90s, I had more saddle to bar drop:
only 9-10cm head tube, short fork length (and a veeeery long 140mm Syncros Stem… ;D)

That bike looks haaawt! :D

I got a chance to demo a Specialized Epic World Cup recently with a very similar setup. XL frame with the saddle way up, and the stem slammed and inverted to get lower. Looked almost like Jaroslav Kulhavy rides, and I thought it'd be pretty freaky, but I actually REALLY liked it. Felt great, loved the position, and I went *fast* - like faster than I'd gone before on trails I knew well. Probably wouldn't be great on longer rides or technical terrain, but I didn't care. Would have one now if it weren't for the shocking $10k price tag!

Kicking around the idea of trying to duplicate that position on an 036 FS 29er frame.

I would give the low bar a shot. You'll be surprised at how much better the bike will feel when cornering. You can get low and really drive the front wheel into the ground. Just be careful on those steep sections on the first few rides.  ;)

Think most people ride with their bar too high. ;D

I don't how many spacers you have under your stem now...but try removing 5mm every couple rides...till you reach your "limit".

cmh

Re: VPACE C2M build by cassandracomplx
« Reply #19 on: June 24, 2015, 09:39:21 PM »
Kicking around the idea of trying to duplicate that position on an 036 FS 29er frame.

I would give the low bar a shot. You'll be surprised at how much better the bike will feel when cornering. You can get low and really drive the front wheel into the ground. Just be careful on those steep sections on the first few rides.  ;)

Think most people ride with their bar too high. ;D

I don't how many spacers you have under your stem now...but try removing 5mm every couple rides...till you reach your "limit".

I've got quite a bit of spacers under the stem on my current setup. Thing is, this bike is a large, and I realized the low setup seemed to work really well with the XL frame. Still, I'm planning on doing exactly what you're suggesting, and maybe swapping the 100mm stem for a 110 or a 120, both of which I have on hand already.

Plus - this is a Rumblefish - a trail bike - unsure how the racer-low setup will match with it.