Author Topic: CS-FS27 Build  (Read 996 times)

Luke.moore

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CS-FS27 Build
« on: April 25, 2017, 02:57:10 PM »
So I'm going to start off by saying that I'm probably going to need some help figuring this out. Secondly I'd like to thank Peter at xmcarbonspeed.com / carbonspeedbikes.com for his help getting me all the things I need.

Important Build Notes
  • Rear shock bushing sizes- 20.2mm wide with 8mm bolt and 50mm wide with 8mm bolt.
    I'd recommend getting offset bushings even if you're not wanting to change the geometry. The offset, if both bushings are aimed in the same direction away from the seat tube, will help with any clearance issues with the shock. The control dial on the Manitou McLeod comes in contact with the frame just slightly with normal center drilled bushings. (https://www.offsetbushings.com/)
  • The cable routing is pretty bad as far as having the shift cable housing running under the bottom bracket shell. Just keep that in mind. It won't bother me too much, but I know some people won't like it.
  • If you are getting custom paint and going with a matte finish, have them put a coat or two of matte clear coat on it. The matte paint is fragile.
  • The DH940C rims were super easy to mount tubeless. One layer of Orange Seal tape and 1 16g CO2 got it started enough for me to hook up my pump and pop it the rest of the way on. After I got the tire on the rim, I deflated the tire, removed valve core and injected sealant. No leaks at all. I'll post tire clearance photos when the rear tire comes in.
  • Rear rotor size is 180mm, not 160mm as listed.


I'll keep editing this post and updating it with anything new that comes up.


« Last Edit: April 30, 2017, 12:09:20 PM by Luke.moore »



mnguyen1224

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2017, 06:48:47 PM »
Good luck!  Can't wait to see how it turns out.  Please document well!!!

Luke.moore

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2017, 10:14:22 PM »
I couldn't resist the weather and ended up going for a ride.  Ill start tomorrow.  ;D

exzos

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2017, 01:16:26 AM »
That colour looks so good  8)

lRaphl

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2017, 08:47:02 AM »
The headset should be a drop in type so you can wait until you're about to put the fork in before installing it. You can already press the bearing cup on the fork. Use grease to fit the cup and for all the bearings contact points (frame/cup).

carbonazza

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2017, 09:31:36 AM »
Well... I would start to move the cables inside the frame first.
As it can help to have the BB and headset holes open to help any difficulty.
And only then, press the BB and headset.

Any remaining operation can be done mostly in any order.

One trick if you go tubeless, as this can be a time sink.
It is to inflate a tube inside the tire( unmounted from the rim ) for a few hours, better a night before.
It takes its shape and pops very easily.
Mount the tire dry first without sealant, and inflate it until it pops.
Then remove the core of the valve and with a syringe fill the sealant.
Re-inflate and shake, or even better go and ride on some bumps.

Le Duke

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2017, 01:28:15 PM »
Can you guys please stop saying the word "press"?

It's a drop-in headset. You don't need a press. You need fingers. That's it.

You're conveying the (wrong) idea that this frame takes a press-in headset. It doesn't. Stop.

bxcc

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2017, 02:03:47 PM »
I will go with the rest of the group and recommend doing the internal cables first. Then the BB. After that, it all depends on what job you feel like doing next. One particular job doesn't rely on another being done first. Except for the chain sizing. That is definitely done last.

Can you guys please stop saying the word "press"?

It's a drop-in headset. You don't need a press. You need fingers. That's it.

You're conveying the (wrong) idea that this frame takes a press-in headset. It doesn't. Stop.

Stop.
Don't get all worked up. This is a friendly forum where things get typed wrong sometimes.  ;D

Luke.Moore was asking for help so he probably didn't realize that. lRaphl took care of that and mentioned that they were drop in bearings. Carbonazza, well he probably just had one to many bong hits for breakfast.... LOL. Or realistically, was just helping with the order of things without over analyzing the headset type.

carbonazza

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2017, 02:54:07 PM »
I'll use the words "drop the headset" in the future.
Although I usually press it with my fingers :) Ok... I stop.

RS VR6

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2017, 05:08:03 PM »
Frame looks good. Patiently waiting for the finished product. 8)

tripleDot

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2017, 08:14:19 PM »
Can't wait to see that light blue frame with yellow (or orange) rims bike!!!

Luke.moore

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2017, 09:57:30 PM »
I slapped the parts together to get an idea.  I ordered the last few tools, parts and tires yesterday. Only thing i still need to figure out is the rear shock bushings. The control knob/dial for the rear shock touches or almost touches the frame. I'm thinking about getting offset bushings to move dial off the frame. I also need to figure out the bushing sizes. I ordered a digital caliper to get exact measurements.  Here's a snapshot from my phone.

I'll be pulling it all back down and documenting the build soon.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2017, 10:20:02 PM by Luke.moore »

tripleDot

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2017, 12:45:22 AM »
Love it!  Some decals to match those rim would make it perfect.

Luke.moore

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2017, 08:34:21 AM »
Love it!  Some decals to match those rim would make it perfect.

That is the plan!

FYI - If you go with Peters matte finish, make sure to add a matte clear coat. The paint is fairly fragile without it. 

mnguyen1224

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Re: CS-FS27 Build
« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2017, 09:45:01 AM »
I see you went with a 140mm fork, what size shock are you running in the back?  165x38 like the site says?