How to setup the XX1 derailleur?

[carbonazza]

Setting up the XX1 derailleur, is probably easier to do than a dual-derailleur setup.
But it took me some time to get it right.

Hopefully this post will help you make your shift crisp on the XX1 derailleur quickly.

It is mainly about having the right cable tension.  If there are glitches when shifting.
If the cable is to tight, the chain will not move easily to a smaller sprocket.
If the cable is too loose, the chain will not leave the small sprocket, to the next.

While you can do some first alignments without the chain.
I found it easier to align and obviously test everything, with the chain on.


1. Align the derailleur to the small sprocket
Leave the derailleur in its default position.
The chain should be on the small sprocket(the harder to pedal one).



Adjust the Small Sprocket Stop screw(the one near the cable pulley).
And have the derailleur sprocket centered inside the chain.
May be unscrew it a little more, to move the derailleur slightly outward, to ease the shift to the small sprocket.

Turning clockwise any of the stop screw, will send the derailleur towards the center of the cassette.


2. Prepare to put the cable on


Rotate the shifter nut(where the hose arrives) clockwise, until it can't turn anymore.
And insure you have the shifter set to the small sprocket position.

Insure the hose and cable are placed correctly.
The hose fully inside both ends. In the shifter nut and the derailleur.

Pass the cable through the derailleur pulley, up to the screw.
Put some tension in the cable. But not to much.
Tighten the screw to attach the cable to the derailleur.


3. Adjust the cable tension
Start to shift. To move the chain to the second sprocket.
Unless you got the cable tension right. Chances it won't move.
Shift back.

Now, go to the shifter, and rotate the small nut.

You should hear a click, when you turn it.
Turn it, for instance 3 clicks at a time.

Then try to shift again. And check if it moves to the next sprocket.
If not, shift back, rotate again the nut(it took me about 15 nut clicks, if I remember well).
Shift again.
 
When it leaves the first sprocket.
You should be able to shift up all the range.

Fine tune the tension with the nut, so the chain move on all 11 sprockets perfectly.
Try to be rigorous with the count(3, 6, 9, etc.), so you know what tension you are at all time.
Make some tests to improve, and come back to the best position you had before.

Beware when arriving at the biggest sprocket. Do not go too far.
And send the chain in the spokes(I did it, see the next step to prevent this).

Insure the derailleur top sprocket is always at the specs vertical distance(12-16mm) with the cassette, when shifting.
To do so, adjust the screw that moves the derailleur up/down from the axle(see the first picture).


4. Align the derailleur to the big sprocket
When the chain is on the bigger sprocket.
Adjust the Large Sprocket Stop screw.
And have the derailleur sprocket centered inside the chain.


5. May be restart...
If the initial cable tension was too tight, you won't be able to unscrew more the shifter nut.
Or if you had to turn the nut too much, and want to get it better.

Insure the shifter and the nut are put back to their initial position.

Unscrew the cable from the derailleur.
If it is harder to move to smaller sprockets, loose a little the cable.
If it is hard to go to the larger sprockets, tighten a little the cable.

Restart at step 3.

I had it to tense initially. Unfortunately, I did cut the cable too early.
Now I have only 2cm cable left after the screw.
So, do not cut your cable too early.


I'm not sure if this is specific to the Gripshifter, and it won't work with the classical shifter.
Please post any easier method, or let me know if the post can be improved.

[brmeyer135]

This kind of stuff is great and maybe should have it's own category.

[Vipassana]

Great post. I'm going to be tuning up my X01 tonight so I'll let you know if I have anything to add. Thanks for the contribution.

[snipe]

hi
first post on this forum.  Great site. 

My 2 cents on the derailleur adjustment.  I had several months riding fs with XX1 and the shifting started to go downhill.  It would be slow going up shift and I would adjust the cable tension and then it would be slow going down shift.  Just couldn't get it dialed in.  Changed the cable and the housing...no change.   Put on a new chain...no change.   So the next day I am out for a ride with a lbs mechanic friend of mine and I comment about it.  He says check the B screw...says the assembly is under engineered...I take that with a grain of salt.   When I did the build I set the b screw and the upper pulley clearance to spec and it shifted great.   So I check the b screw after his comment and adjusted it to allow the pulley to go a little closer but still clear the 42 easily.  Huge difference.  The pulley not only goes closer but more forward and the chain wraps the cog a little more and I think picks up the chain better.   Whether I had initially set the pulley too far from the 42 or it had changed position I can't be sure.

[Carbon_Dude]

Both my bikes have SRAM XX1, it's been my experience the B-screw adjustment is critical on the SRAM XX1 r/d.  Just as Snipe has mentioned in his previous post.

SRAM's setup instructions recommends 12mm gap between the 42T rear cog and the top jockey wheel.  Then you need to also check the r/d cage is clear when the chain is on the 10T cog.  If the b-screw and lower limit screws are not properly adjusted, the r/d may hit the r/d cage when it's on the 10T cog.  Something I've never seen on other r/d systems.