WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)

[FredericksSirvelo]

Goofed a bit. I overtorqued the rear derailleur and stripped the m5 part of the bolt. I'm going to use an extraction kit to remove the bolt, but what do I do from there? As in what replacement bolt should I order? or how do I fix this lol. Thank you in advance!

[Tijoe]

Goofed a bit. I overtorqued the rear derailleur and stripped the m5 part of the bolt. I'm going to use an extraction kit to remove the bolt, but what do I do from there? As in what replacement bolt should I order? or how do I fix this lol. Thank you in advance!

When you find out, let us all know.  One of mine is almost completely stripped out and I could use a replacement.

[FredericksSirvelo]

Will do! I ordered a generic bolt, we’ll see if it’s long enough. I also emailed Wheeltop so update when they respond.

[jonathanf2]

Goofed a bit. I overtorqued the rear derailleur and stripped the m5 part of the bolt. I'm going to use an extraction kit to remove the bolt, but what do I do from there? As in what replacement bolt should I order? or how do I fix this lol. Thank you in advance!

Yikes, is that bolt replaceable/removable on Wheeltop? Also aren't RD bolts only 5nm to tighten?

At least with Shimano shadow RDs, both the main bolt and shadow link bolt are both user replaceable. Even LTwoo's electronic RDs are designed that way.

[Tijoe]

Yikes, is that bolt replaceable/removable on Wheeltop? Also aren't RD bolts only 5nm to tighten?

At least with Shimano shadow RDs, both the main bolt and shadow link bolt are both user replaceable. Even LTwoo's electronic RDs are designed that way.

Easily removed.  Material sure is a soft aluminum...   (Pics for your viewing pleasure.)

[FredericksSirvelo]

Thanks for the pics!! Would you be willing to measure the length of the bolt minus the threads? Rookie mechanic here, first time using a torque wrench. (Also bought an Ali wrench). So I totally over torqued it. Doesn’t help that the bolt is so soft :’)

[jonathanf2]

Easily removed.  Material sure is a soft aluminum...   (Pics for your viewing pleasure.)

I've never seen an RD bolt that rounded. Wheeltop definitely cheap'ed out on material. I'm guess you're using decent hex wrenches and/or a proper torque wrench?

[Tijoe]

This bolt is removed from my "problem" OX derailleur.  It was installed and removed many times.  During it's usage, the bolt came loose on the hanger several times. I had to tighten it "on the road" and probably tightened it more than 10NM.  (It stripped over time, not right away.)

Overall length = 33.1mm
Length bottom of head to top of circlip = 23.30mm
Length bottom of the head to top of threads = 25mm
Main shaft diameter = 9.9mm
Head diameter = 14mm
Head thickness = 1.85mm

[FredericksSirvelo]

Thanks for the measurements! Wheeltop just replied to me; all they said is it’s an M10 bolt haha. Update on the extraction: the kit I bought didn’t work. The extraction bolts couldn’t get any purchase unto the soft metal. Now I’m trying to super glue an Allen key into the bolt. Let me know if you all have any other ideas.

[Tijoe]

A drilled hole extends about 13mm down into the bolt.  I believe it is about 5mm in diameter.  If I can't purchase a new one.  I will attempt to tap the hole with the closest metric fine thread.  Then I will take a button head screw with either a torx or Alan head and thread the screw down into the hole using either Loctite red or epoxy. (I probably will use either a stainless screw, or Titanium if I can find one I like.

When you go to remove yours, try to extract it using only the stripped hex area.  This will preserve the rest of the hole that you might be able to tap per my approach stated above.

[Tijoe]

Good news.   Jerry at XZX components now has the bolt available to order on their web site.   (I wrote him a couple of days ago and he looked into the bolt's availability.)
I will order a few of them in the next few days.

https://xzxcomponents.com/products/replacement-derailleur-hanger-bolt

[FredericksSirvelo]

A drilled hole extends about 13mm down into the bolt.  I believe it is about 5mm in diameter.  If I can't purchase a new one.  I will attempt to tap the hole with the closest metric fine thread.  Then I will take a button head screw with either a torx or Alan head and thread the screw down into the hole using either Loctite red or epoxy. (I probably will use either a stainless screw, or Titanium if I can find one I like.

When you go to remove yours, try to extract it using only the stripped hex area.  This will preserve the rest of the hole that you might be able to tap per my approach stated above.

I'm trying your method with red loctite! Super ugly bodge solution with the cheap tap set I found at a hardware store today, but I'm very hopeful. I'll update tomorrow with results.

Good news.   Jerry at XZX components now has the bolt available to order on their web site.   (I wrote him a couple of days ago and he looked into the bolt's availability.)
I will order a few of them in the next few days.

https://xzxcomponents.com/products/replacement-derailleur-hanger-bolt

That's incredible news! Are you in the US? If so, would you be interested in ordering an extra and mailing it to me? I'll contribute to the international shipping of course.

[nprak]

Just FIY, I have asked the support about the compatibility between GEX and TX front derailleur : "EDS-TX is not compatible with EDS-GEX at this time, and the timetable is not available at this time" 

Also they would not give a timeframe for the GEX 2x release but that is understandable "cannot share more details at this time"

[FredericksSirvelo]

Still trying to figure out how to remove the derailleur from the hanger. What I tried yesterday was tapping out a thread, inserting a bolt with red loctite, and trying to unthread both once the loctite cured. Unfortunately, the silver but just unthreaded from the derailleur bolt. I’m trying again with more loctite and liberal usage of WD-40 around, but I’m not optimistic about attempt #2.

From what I understand, my next and probably last option is to drill all the way through the bolt, trying to maintain the threads on the hanger but buying a new one if necessary. Does anyone have another idea before I try the nuclear option?

[Tijoe]

I  have the impression that somehow you either cross threaded or had some sort of debris in the hanger threads that when you originally installed the derailleur onto the hanger,. it galled and locked up the bolt into the hanger threads.

You might try one more thing.  Remove the wheel and drill a smaller hole from the back side and tap the hole. (M4 or M5) Use an Alan head, or button head bolt that is round and has perhaps an 8mm thread. Threading from the back will let you use these threads so that as this thread tightens onto the end of the derailleur bolt it will force the threads in the hanger to unscrew.   

If this doesn't work, then you are already 1/2 way to going nuclear by drilling it out.