Stiff, Aero, Crit Bike

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Looking to build up an aero monster for racing crits. Not too concerned with weight. Just want something aero and stiff. I'm fairly big at 189cm and 80kg, and can put down around 1,600W in a sprint.

So far I have:

• Speeder SC-49D/Adapt FM49-DB - They look to be the same frame. Really aggressive (possibly too much), long and low. But looks nice and aero. Trying to find some reviews on the stiffness.
• ICAN A9 - slightly less aggressive but frame design looks very similar to above. Easy buying options and custom paint, but more expensive.
• Adris Le Vitesse - is this an open mold? It looks super nice but their website seems to be down right now so I don't even know if ou can still buy these. But it looks similar to an Aeroad. Also way more expensive.
• Bross Zenith. Seems to be vaporware right now. But probably excites me the most. Looks super aero. But absolutely no idea if they'd sell to the US.

Probably missing some others, I'm open to suggestions. Threaded BB would be a plus but not a deal breaker. Custom paint also a huge plus. Any ideas?

Related but also looking for a stiff, flared, integrated handlebar. Something like 38 tops, 42 drops. With around 190-200mm total reach (stem + reach).

[Sakizashi]

Vitus bikes have been available on firesale in the US from Planet Cyclery. The prices and stock changes pretty quick but the ZX1-Evo could be a good choice if you are looking for a complete bike: https://planetcyclery.com/vitus-zx1-evo-cr-etap-rival-axs-carbon-bike.

I am not much of crit racer as endurance riding is much more my thing, but I personally would start by playing with fit. To the extent you can, I would play with longer more forward positions vs. drop. Being able to do a really hard like 150% of FTP effort for a few minutes from the aero hoods position, keeping those elbows tucked in will make a much bigger difference than aero tubes. I would balance that with being able to get a sustain a 20-30 sec max effort in a relatively aero position.

The advanced thing would be measure your weight balance on your current bike using a couple of bathroom scales and a wall in your drops or whatever position you would use to chase or hold a wheel when things get spicy. I would try to keep expected the weight balance at the wheels between 60% Rear and 55% Rear. Its hard depending on size, but testing on myself good balance meant it was less work to shift my weight in and out of corners helping me keep the power down and my body in an aero position. Between your desired fit and balance, you should start to rule out some frames.

Lastly worth noting that BB height may impact your ability to pedal through corners. Ideally you want the lowest BB you can run without making pedal contact as that will minimize your frontal area of you and the bike. My rule of thumb is 80mm is the max drop for 165s, 75mm for 170s and so on, assuming you are using Look or Shimano style road pedals and shoes with standard length axles. The A9 and SC49 have a relatively high BB which could be good if you run longer cranks.

I had it in my head for a while that I could develop a better race bike for shorter riders and spent a lot of time on it during the pandemic and had a Ti prototype made before concluding that it wasn't for me. Those were important things I learned doing testing and iterating on designs that I think matter in this context.

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Vitus bikes have been available on firesale in the US from Planet Cyclery. The prices and stock changes pretty quick but the ZX1-Evo could be a good choice if you are looking for a complete bike: https://planetcyclery.com/vitus-zx1-evo-cr-etap-rival-axs-carbon-bike.

I am not much of crit racer as endurance riding is much more my thing, but I personally would start by playing with fit. To the extent you can, I would play with longer more forward positions vs. drop. Being able to do a really hard like 150% of FTP effort for a few minutes from the aero hoods position, keeping those elbows tucked in will make a much bigger difference than aero tubes. I would balance that with being able to get a sustain a 20-30 sec max effort in a relatively aero position.

The advanced thing would be measure your weight balance on your current bike using a couple of bathroom scales and a wall in your drops or whatever position you would use to chase or hold a wheel when things get spicy. I would try to keep expected the weight balance at the wheels between 60% Rear and 55% Rear. Its hard depending on size, but testing on myself good balance meant it was less work to shift my weight in and out of corners helping me keep the power down and my body in an aero position. Between your desired fit and balance, you should start to rule out some frames.

Lastly worth noting that BB height may impact your ability to pedal through corners. Ideally you want the lowest BB you can run without making pedal contact as that will minimize your frontal area of you and the bike. My rule of thumb is 80mm is the max drop for 165s, 75mm for 170s and so on, assuming you are using Look or Shimano style road pedals and shoes with standard length axles. The A9 and SC49 have a relatively high BB which could be good if you run longer cranks.

I had it in my head for a while that I could develop a better race bike for shorter riders and spent a lot of time on it during the pandemic and had a Ti prototype made before concluding that it wasn't for me. Those were important things I learned doing testing and iterating on designs that I think matter in this context.

Thanks for the info. The Vitus actually looks quite good. And it's a stellar price. Kind of a bummer the frameset isn't on as deep a sale as the full build ($1918 frameset vs $1999 full bike) because that candy red is stunning. But with the full build I could sell the groupset and wheels and be left with a killer deal for the frame.

Honestly, the only thing holding me back with that is Vitus and Wiggle being in doubt. With everything going on, I don't want to be left with no support should something go wrong. Now hopefully somebody comes in and can keep Vitus around, but who knows.

[filtered]

TFSA Windbreaker ?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3932

[Eddy_Twerckx]

TFSA Windbreaker ?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3932

Looks good, but super low. That's a good 4cm lower stack than my current bike. I'd end up with way too many spacers.

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Revisiting this as the weather is warming up and I need to make a decision on the new race bike. Really just want a stiff bike to race crits.

Have considered:

- TT-X38/DCRF26 (Scott Foil copy) Looks nice, can get it for $500 right now on sale. ot super stiff according to some.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805149001283.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.1.6cf87dd0p2826g&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%20789%2C94%21%E2%82%AC%20473%2C96%21%21%21%21%21%40210318b816795981986032905e9149%2112000032651802741%21sh&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

- Spycle (Canyon Aeroad copy)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806415702077.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.50e838daP7gPLb&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

- TFSA JH-10
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806149240864.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.50e838daP7gPLb&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

- Hygge Model S
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805027452578.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

Or to go completely the other way, a local guy is selling a State Undefeated Road Disc frameset for $300. It's alloy, heavier than the open mold frames, and doesn't have hidden cables or any real aero features. Build it up with deep carbon wheels and parts I have laying around. Can pick up a fork from Winspace for another $300 to hide all the cables. But at that point it's more expensive than the open molds. The benefit is that it's going to be stiff and probably not have the assembly issues as is normal here.



Or go more expensive with an Allez sprint. Know entity thats stiff and aero, hidden cables, plus a warranty and local support.

[toxin]

That tfsa has absolutely atrocious geometry, you don't want it. Bross will be selling overseas, available "soon", god knows what exactly soon means here.

[Eddy_Twerckx]

That tfsa has absolutely atrocious geometry, you don't want it. Bross will be selling overseas, available "soon", god knows what exactly soon means here.

It’s not too far off from my Tarmac SL7. The reach is a good bit shorter (12mm) but the stack and top tube length are similar. Wheelbase is 6mm shorter. Could probably make it work with a longer stem.

The Bross looks really nice but seems to be vaporware for now. Would be cool to see it come to the US but all I keep hearing is “coming soon.”

Edit: Ok, the reach is 15mm shorter. So maybe not the best.

The Spycle (Aeroad copy) or TTX38 (Foil copy) are probably leading the race right now. Geo looks good. T47 bottom bracket. Custom paint options.

[toxin]

look at the seattube angle on the tfsa

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Yea the TFSA is out. Leaning towards the SP Cycle Aeroad copy. Partially because my other open mold is labeled "CANDY" and this being a Canyon copy could get the same font and do "Candy" on the downtube.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806415702077.html?spm=a2g0o.best.0.0.2f982c25Y7RFo4&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[joegal]

Yea the TFSA is out. Leaning towards the SP Cycle Aeroad copy. Partially because my other open mold is labeled "CANDY" and this being a Canyon copy could get the same font and do "Candy" on the downtube.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806415702077.html?spm=a2g0o.best.0.0.2f982c25Y7RFo4&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

yeah, go for that SPcycle! would be really interested in your opinion on it! 

[Serge_K]

My LT268 looks quite similar to the Hygge you're considering. I'm super happy with it. I'm a tad shorter, a tad heavier, and i can't sprint beyond 1000W, so for all intended purposes, i suck, but i'm extremely happy with the bike. i bought the cockpit from Airwolf, it's super stiff (allegedly it's full T1000). I got a medium and run a 36cmx80mm cockpit.
The geometry is relatively relaxed, which helps because i have long legs and a short torso, so i dont have to fold in 2 to touch the bars.
When I sprint (which means 800-100W on a good day, mind you), the only things i feel flexing are the tyres (I run 30 & 32C) & the spokes (I went with steel for comfort, was afraid the bike would rattle my teeth with carbon everything).
Would be awesome if you got the same frame and bars, would love to hear your thoughts on ride quality.
They do custom painting, i just chose glossy finish and got decals cut locally (fancy car vinyl). It works remarkably well & i can change my mind every week if i want.

[jonathanf2]

That SP Cycle R065 looks great. I have an older SP Cycle SP027D that looks very similar in geometry and rides fast. That bike looks like an improvement on all fronts while similar in weight. Also I was extremely satisfied with SP Cycle's fast shipping. The only thing I didn't like was their paint work, it scratches easily. I ended up adding protection tape especially on the top tube.

[toxin]

Some of the new workswell bikes that havent been bought out by "brands" yet look interesting