Ican P8 full suspension build

[R_Pierce]

You can see all the way down the head tube and inside of the down tube if you remove the fork.  The layup on these is just as strong any any other IMO.

[tripleDot]

Have you considered something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bicycle-Boost-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Hub-Adapter-12-x-142mm-thru-axle-to-12-x-148mm/32829533376.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.41431822kW2IGS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_5722813_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_5722613_10343_5722913_10340_10341_10698_10697_10696_10084_10083_5722713_10618_10307_5711213_10059_10534_308_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722513_5711313,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb-0&algo_pvid=9ac71a7b-74ea-427a-82ee-9104eb3f0deb&priceBeautifyAB=0

Never tried it myself, but maybe a good solution?

Aren't those rotor spacers?  I had those on my current setup (CS-496).  My boost hubs & frame combo sort of misalignment the rotors & caliphers, so the mechanic installed one of those on each rotor. They work fine now.

[Bos]

So I Stuck my normal rear wheel in there and went for a ride... You guessed it. Nothing happened.
The rear shock I have in there has a firm compression tune and its not ideal. The suspension works but its not what It should be. I can feel its just a little harsh. I found a 200 x 57mm Float Performance DPS EVOL on Ebay UK which I'm going to pick up on a business strip in 2 weeks.
Another thing that didn't work out so well; The Dropper post I had is also not working out very well at the moment. Though the effective seat angle might be 73 deg on paper It gets slacker the higher the seatpost is raised. Does that make sense? My seatpost had a setback which stretched out the cockpit completely. I don't have a shorter stem than the 75mm at the moment, so I will test it with a 50mm and see if it helps, but in my experience it just feels like I'm sitting further over the back wheel.
So I'm selling off my old frame and dropper before buying more stuff. But I'm getting a dropper with Zero offset.

So how was the ride? Coming from a Ali FS frame I could feel the lighter weight immediately. The frame is also very stiff. Besides the carbon which is naturally stiffer, the wide rear end which dwarfed my 2.25 Ardent Race 29'er tires must play a part.

The geometry feels pretty good so far. I'm actually quite enjoying smacking corners and lofting off kickers. Its got more pop than my old bike thats for sure.
Need to do a "proper ride" on proper trials for a couple of hours to give a better report so, Until then..

[R_Pierce]

You can measure the seat angle yourself by using a ruler or other long straight object and run it from the center of the BB to the center of the seat post at the top.
 
Mine  measured about 73 degrees measuring to the center of the seat post at ride height for me.  So pretty slack.  Measuring how bikes are measured (top of head tube level to where it intersects the seat tube) its 74 degrees just as stated.


Also, why wouldnt you just buy the adapters for the rear wheel?  There is no way the drop outs are setting in their square without pinching the frame.  Its not possible.  The bikes designed for a 148 drop out spacing, not 142.  Thats a 6mm (nearly 1/4 inch) difference.

To each their own I guess.

[Bos]

Regarding the seat angle:
It would seem the Effective seat angle is slightly flawed because the longer/higher the seat post the slacker the effective seat angle becomes. It is correct for a sweet spot but I'm perhaps at the upper limit on a Large.

Regarding the wheel spacing. I wouldn't do it if it would damage anything. I will upgrade my wheelset eventually and have had some spacers made. Like I said 3mm per side / make that 2mm per side. (my frame was closer to 146mm spacing anyway) I had some spacers turned in the workshop here at work but I need the disc spacer.

I have done 3 rides since and I'm really enjoying the bike. Its a pity I don't have a dropper post at the moment since it definitely gives one an edge in hairy situations. The 120mm feels plenty right now and I'm starting to wonder what the 135mm is going to feel like once I get my shock next week. Will be nice to do a comparison though. The EVOL airspring should allow me to sit higher in the travel anyway which is what I'd like.
I think a remote for the rear shock will be a nice upgrade since I'm only really using the full open mode for downhills at the moment. Its just to active to use when not necessary, especially when at the flick of a switch it can feel like my Rocky Mountain element did. This is nice though and a perfect compromise if it can be controlled through a remote. Bending down to flip the lever on the shock is going to get tired pretty quickly.

One last thing. is it just me or do the cables inside the downtube rattle like hell? I'm considering shoving some foam in there to quiet things down.

[pedro]

Hello, I wonder there will be any clearance issues with rear shock with reservoir like rockshox monarch plus rc3?

[carbonazza]

One last thing. is it just me or do the cables inside the downtube rattle like hell? I'm considering shoving some foam in there to quiet things down.

There is an existing post here about using some foam. But I can't find it...

On my bikes I did cut an insulation tube used for heating pipes.
Cutting a section of about 30mm by 20mm, and about the length of the downtube.
Then remove the fork, and insert it from the headtube down to the bottom bracket.

Canyon have an interesting approach.
They have a hole between the two inserts to screw the bottle cage in the downtube.
And a special plastic hook, grabs the cable suspending them in the middle of the downtube.

[thesmokingman]

Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[Bos]

Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This is a very cleaver Idea. Thanks!

[samroy92]

Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Is it easy to perform maintenance and replace cables after inserting the foam into the tube?

[thesmokingman]

Foam sleeve... there is an actual bike product, norattles and another but I cannot remember the name.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K85ASYA/?coliid=I1QUYQ9S8X7AWY&colid=3511P7RWFNKOU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Is it easy to perform maintenance and replace cables after inserting the foam into the tube?

What maintenance are you going to do on it besides replacing housing? In either case it will be as difficult or easy as it was getting the sleeve in there in the first place.

[carbonazza]

Is it easy to perform maintenance and replace cables after inserting the foam into the tube?

If you go full hose.
An easy way to replace it, is to have a ~1mm steel cable, with 2x the shifter length that you put into the hose.
Then into the new hose, in a row, so they touch each other, with the cable going out of the end of the two hoses.

Pull the old out of the frame, while pushing the new inside, insuring they stay in a row together.
So even if you have foam, the new hose follow the path of the old.