Carbonda Cfr 1056

[cme]

It could well be (a form of) plastic. The compression needed to preload the bearings is not much.

The supplied compression plug is aluminum. Very sturdy and (relatively) very heavy. Agree that these don't need a lot of tension & over torqueing can make the headset bearings less effective.

[jstrawks]

The supplied compression plug is aluminum. Very sturdy and (relatively) very heavy. Agree that these don't need a lot of tension & over torqueing can make the headset bearings less effective.

Thanks!

[FHS]

I use Finish Line Premium for everything that requires grease. It's carbon fiber safe for sure. If you are lubing anything for installation near your brake discs, be super careful not to get even a bit on the discs. They will squeal like crazy, cleaning them is a pain, you'll have to replace your pads, and you'll hate life in general.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much about your headset bearings at all, other than to seat them with grease and do your best to keep water and grime out of the headset.

[jokage]

I never use thread lock.

Tacx carbon paste on steerer and seat post.
All installation part / threads I use Morgan aqua proof. Alternative is shimano 'anti seize'. Both work.
Bearing grease: shimano grease. You won't need this for a while with new bearings.

Aren't the bolts of some components already have thread locker applied?

For me, I usually apply thread locker to bolts for mounting, like bottle cage, pannier, and computer mounts. These area might rattle. The rattle will loosen the bolts. Loose bottle cage bolts will destroy the mounting points. I've learned the lesson.

[Aesch]

Aren't the bolts of some components already have thread locker applied?

For me, I usually apply thread locker to bolts for mounting, like bottle cage, pannier, and computer mounts. These area might rattle. The rattle will loosen the bolts. Loose bottle cage bolts will destroy the mounting points. I've learned the lesson.

I guess it is no problem to add thread locker in those areas. I've never needed it. I build the bike and then check all bolts @4 weeks and 3 months. If they have not loosened then, they will stay put for a while.

You are correct that some parts come with prepared bolts. The stem bolts on my ritchey stem came pre-thread-locked I just remembered, others did not.

One point I would advice thread locker is on the disc brake bolts if you use 6bolt rotors. Those bolts will come pre applied too.

And the tip to be extra super carefully not to get anything on the rotor is very good too

[carbonazza]

While you could apply everything you listed( threadlocker and grease everywhere ) here is what I usually do:

• Grease for seating the headset into the head tube. Marine grease to delay rust
• Lubricant the headset bearings Marine grease to delay rust
• Carbon paste for attaching aluminum stem to the carbon steerer tube. No
• Grease for treating the BSA68 threads before installing the bottom bracket. Copper grease.
• Lubricant for the bottom bracket bearings. Marine grease.
• Treating carbon seat tube before installing carbon seat post. Carbon paste
• Thread lock for SRAM hydraulic brake calipers. Sometimes
• Lubricant for for thru-axles. No
• Thread lock for thru axles. No
• Lubricant for crankset spindle (SRAM GXP). Marine grease
• Thread lock for crankset spindle. No
• Thread lock for pedals. Copper grease, they will tighten as you ride but won't seize
• DOT grease for connecting hydraulic brake hoses to calipers. No
• DOT hydraulic brake fluid. Buy small bottles as they saturate air quickly. Cheaper in Motorbike stores.
• Lubricant for installation of brake disk lock rings. No
• Lubricant for installation for cassette. No
• Thread lock for installation of rear derailleur. No

Please tell me if there's any place where I SHOULDN'T be using anything.

Please tell me about anything you think I've missed.

Do not lubricate the frame when you press a BB use a lockcompound instead.
Do not lubricate your cassette and rings, only the chain and wipe it out after (I know many who do this, so just to say it  )
Sometimes clean and lubricate the bearings in the derailleur pulleys, and your pedals.
Clean the pivots of your derailleur, the ones that move when you shift.

[jstrawks]

You've all been very helpful. Thank you.

More responses are welcomed!

[jstrawks]

DOT grease for connecting hydraulic brake hoses to calipers. No

Hmm, in every installation video I've watched, at the lever-end, the olives got DOT grease and the threaded fitting got some sort of lubricant. I realize I only specified the caliper-end.

[jstrawks]

After the new bike is built up, I'm going for a professional fit.
For me, the most complicated part of it his the stem.

Cleat and saddle position are adjustable. Handlebar position is a
function of spacer stack and stem angle and length. Spacer stack can
be adjusted. Angle and length are changed by swapping out the stem.

I'm going with a particular stem: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/stems/road-gravel/ns-acr-stem

The angle is fixed, so spacer stack becomes important. What I can't
determine before the fitting, is the length.

I don't think a fitting requires proper headset bearing preload. I
think I can use whatever headset the bike fitter wants to swap in
and out, clamped to the uncut steerer, for determination of
position. After that, I can purchase the right length of the stem I
plan to use, and only then, cut the carbon steerer.

What do you think?

[FHS]

I would agree that your headset preload doesn't have to be dialed in for a bike fitting. If the headset is too loose, however, it can rock back and forth a good few centimeters which could possible throw off your fitting. If you don't have any major issues with your frame or headset stack height, setting a correct preload is pretty trivial. I would hate to find out that there are issues, though, at the same time I'm trying to get my bike professionally fit.

Love that FSA set-up. Will your bike fitter be able switch out stems, and handlebars for that matter, for fit?

[jstrawks]

I would agree that your headset preload doesn't have to be dialed in for a bike fitting. If the headset is too loose, however, it can rock back and forth a good few centimeters which could possible throw off your fitting. If you don't have any major issues with your frame or headset stack height, setting a correct preload is pretty trivial. I would hate to find out that there are issues, though, at the same time I'm trying to get my bike professionally fit.

Love that FSA set-up. Will your bike fitter be able switch out stems, and handlebars for that matter, for fit?

Thanks.

I meant to write about swapping out stems above, not headsets. My hope would be that pulling up the streerer as hard as possible before tightening stem bolts would be sufficient to prevent enough movement to undermine a fitting.

I will borrow a 90mm stem off my current bike for this, as a starting point.

[jever98]

I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars.  I ended up having to order the FSA ACR headset and spacers as the bearing and race in the Carbonda headset did not sit flush in the fork/frame interface.  The headset spacers are also much nicer on the FSA headset than the Carbona one.  Attached in a poor quality photo of the handlebars (have not decided on handle bar drop yet so no top cap or cut steer yet).  The finish seems really nice, they are a little more flexible than I had anticipated, although no outside rides yet as it's the middle of winter.

Hi folks,

Is my impression from this picture right?

1) that you have some possibility for removing spacers under the handlebar without the fork extending beyond the top cap? If yes, how much adjustment range is there?

2) the geometry drawings on the carbonda site are confusing. It looks on the picture like the effective stem angle is 0 degrees, along the bottom of the stem. So as if you used a 0 degree stem with a really low stack height. Did I get that right?

Thanks

[Aesch]

Work in progress 

[jstrawks]

Work in progress 

Very nice. Are you happy with Carbonda's paintwork? No plan to run the derailleur cables full-internal?

[Aesch]

No, running derailleur cables through another 4x~90 degree angle is bad for shifting quality (experience from other everything- integrated bike). As well as it is a nightmare to route the hoses through both the stem/handlebar as well as the head tube. There is space for the brake hoses but I'm already having trouble getting them rub-free. Let alone with another 2 through the same space.

The 2 wires outside don't bother me.