Carbonda Cfr 1056

[svanimpe]

Something like this? https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558

Carbon ships something similar with the frame if you ask for the non-integrated version.

[njshift]

Thank you for the response. I spoke with Wing and she’ll be able to supply me with this non integrated cap.

I’m also looking for recommendations on sizing. I’m 5’11” (180cm) tall with a 33” (84cm) inseam.  Based upon what I’ve read in this thread I’m thinking a 56 frame should work,  but advice is always appreciated.

[mikeleeob]

According to Carbonda's QC, this is totally normal. Is there any owner of a 1056 that has headtube that looks like this on the inside?

Thanks!

Mine is smoother but has similar shape edges.

[Chinacago]

Thank you for the response. I spoke with Wing and she’ll be able to supply me with this non integrated cap.

I’m also looking for recommendations on sizing. I’m 5’11” (180cm) tall with a 33” (84cm) inseam.  Based upon what I’ve read in this thread I’m thinking a 56 frame should work,  but advice is always appreciated.

I’m the same size and ordered a 56. I’ve already got a 696 and that was the right size for me in that frame.

[JohnnyRabbit]

Thank you for the response. I spoke with Wing and she’ll be able to supply me with this non integrated cap.

I’m also looking for recommendations on sizing. I’m 5’11” (180cm) tall with a 33” (84cm) inseam.  Based upon what I’ve read in this thread I’m thinking a 56 frame should work,  but advice is always appreciated.

I'm 6'1'' (185cm) and 34''(86cm) inseam and arm span of 200cm and bought the 56cm. 100mm stem with a 10mm spacer. It just been built and I did a couple rides on my trainer and it fits me like a glove.

[msm626]

Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:

The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm    
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD

The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")

Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.

I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.

[coffeebreak]

Bike looks fantastic. Excellent colors. Very clean. Well done!

[2old2mould]

Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:

The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm    
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD

The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")

Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.

I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.

Thank you for the 'shout-out' on your post. Your bike looks awesome. I wish I had been more adventurous now with my colour and design choices. A great build, and well done for doing it yourself too.

Regarding your pad rub, it's likely that the mounts are not level and perhaps some paint has also made them uneven. That was the case with mine, but a couple of minutes with a file solved that problem. If you aren't comfortable I'd suggest getting a bike shop to do it. If you do it yourself, then I'd suggest filing a little, checking the flatness, then filing again until you think you have nailed it. Better to be slow and steady than take off too much carbon. Also remember carbon dust can be dangerous so wet the area first and wear a mask.

[svanimpe]

Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned.

What exactly do you mean with misaligned, and how did you diagnose this?

Did the bike shop re-face the rear brake mount? This is commonly needed on painted frames, even on $$$ ones, but is often skipped because it requires an expensive tool.

[msm626]

I think you and 2old2mould are saying the same thing. I hadn’t heard of refacing the mount and will reach out to my LBS to see if that’s a service they provide (and think will help). Essentially, when they tightened the bolts, one of the bolts bent and the rotor rubs the brake pad on one side before pulling the brake lever. I’ll follow up here after chatting with the LBS. thanks for the idea!! Again, as a newbie, I don’t know what I don’t know, so this forum is really helpful.

[JohnnyRabbit]

I think you and 2old2mould are saying the same thing. I hadn’t heard of refacing the mount and will reach out to my LBS to see if that’s a service they provide (and think will help). Essentially, when they tightened the bolts, one of the bolts bent and the rotor rubs the brake pad on one side before pulling the brake lever. I’ll follow up here after chatting with the LBS. thanks for the idea!! Again, as a newbie, I don’t know what I don’t know, so this forum is really helpful.

I had to reface the rear brake mounts on mine.

[msm626]

The shop that inspected/tuned my bike doesn’t have the right tools for it. Looking for shops a bit further out. Tbd. In the meantime, has a lovely 40 mile ride last weekend and doing a metric century event next weekend.

[xavier]

Hello everyone,
I too wanted to thank everyone for the many tips...
Here are the pictures of the bike, mounted with SRAM red.

Assembly went well... the main difficulties were related to my ignorance... for example, finding the front derailleur sheath stop...
I opted for integrated wiring, with CHB1036 handlebars. Patience is needed... once the sheaths were in place, some cables jammed because of the angles of the handlebars... back to work!
Next, I wanted mechanical disc brakes for weight reasons. I'm pretty happy with the result.
I must have done 600 / 700kms with the bike.
I'm very happy with the way it rides: comfortable and light!
Bike adopted!

[Specialf.]

Thank you for trying this frame !
I look forward for your feedback, especially the tire clearance, if 32mm is a conservative limit or if it is tight.
For information here is the link http://www.carbonda.com/road-frames/125.html

how is your project going?  I would like to make one too based on this frame.

[Specialf.]

I'm noticing that many of you mount the bsa 68 bottom bracket instead of the bb86 on this frame, what does this choice mean?  What standards do modern bands support?  Thank you.