Author Topic: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame  (Read 265975 times)

memebike

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1335 on: August 31, 2022, 09:16:36 AM »
I'm going to build my 168 with a SRAM Force AXS groupset, with a DUB crankset. What kind of bottom bracket would you choose? I was leaning towards the official Sram BB86 DUB BB, but I'm worried about the durability. Maybe I should go for a more premium BB, like Kogel, C-Bear or Ceramic Speed? What do you think?

using the SRAM BB86 DUB BB for the last 3 months, haven't had any issues so far.

vTuga

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1336 on: August 31, 2022, 02:09:31 PM »
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going with the Sram DUB BB, they are cheap and it looks like they are reasonably reliable.

Upgraded the crankset to Sram Red, less 150 gr and looks sharp

gilj

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1337 on: September 01, 2022, 04:14:12 AM »
I'm going with the sram rival axs, wanted to upgrade to the red crankf or the same reason, but it comes at a heavier pricetag than I wanted to pay. it does look so sharp though!

vTuga

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1338 on: September 01, 2022, 04:31:35 AM »
I'm going with the sram rival axs, wanted to upgrade to the red crankf or the same reason, but it comes at a heavier pricetag than I wanted to pay. it does look so sharp though!
In terms of weight its probably the biggest upgrade you can make, apart from wheelset. Rival AXS crankset weight is 877g (48/35, 172.5). Red crankset is 577g. That's 300g diference. Thats a lot of times the difference in weight between a 5.000$ bike and a 10.000$ one.

gilj

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1339 on: September 01, 2022, 07:35:36 AM »
In terms of weight its probably the biggest upgrade you can make, apart from wheelset. Rival AXS crankset weight is 877g (48/35, 172.5). Red crankset is 577g. That's 300g diference. Thats a lot of times the difference in weight between a 5.000$ bike and a 10.000$ one.

Yeah I know, it would be the first upgrade I do. I just need to hold out a bit to find a deal on a red 46/33 or 48/35 power crank on ebay.


Headset question: the compression-ring of my headset ends up quite high, and as a result the headset cap does not sit flush with the frame (between 1 and 2mm gap). I've seen others talk about getting a less high bearing, but mine already measures 7mm. Does anyone know if I could find a less high compression ring? My google-skills let me down.

voshond

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1340 on: September 01, 2022, 07:42:45 AM »
Yeah I know, it would be the first upgrade I do. I just need to hold out a bit to find a deal on a red 46/33 or 48/35 power crank on ebay.


Headset question: the compression-ring of my headset ends up quite high, and as a result the headset cap does not sit flush with the frame (between 1 and 2mm gap). I've seen others talk about getting a less high bearing, but mine already measures 7mm. Does anyone know if I could find a less high compression ring? My google-skills let me down.

Problem with that one is, that the top cap they have does not have a rubber O-ring. That would mean, that the topcap would scratch the paint. I think there are 6-6.5mm bearings available.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2022, 07:46:10 AM by voshond »
Maybe you find my Velobuild VB-R-168 Compedium useful: Link to Google Sheets

gilj

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1341 on: September 01, 2022, 08:31:29 AM »
Sure, I understand there is a gap. I just would like the gap to be smaller. Adding an o-ring would introduce friction, I don't want that either.

vTuga

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1342 on: September 01, 2022, 09:38:56 AM »
Yeah I know, it would be the first upgrade I do. I just need to hold out a bit to find a deal on a red 46/33 or 48/35 power crank on ebay.

I bought the cranks separate from the chainrings, and it was a little cheaper and easier to get the combination I wanted (165mm, 46/33). If I had bought the complete crankset it would have been 100$ more expensive and I could not find it in stock anywhere.

jokage

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1343 on: September 02, 2022, 06:52:01 AM »
My 168 raked more than 9000km outdoor and indoor now. No issues other than creaking headset.

And recently, I've tried to change its attitude. And it worked! Here it is.

Conti Terra Speed 650x35B on Hunt Adventure Sport wheels.
« Last Edit: September 02, 2022, 08:27:25 AM by jokage »

hazzer19

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1344 on: September 02, 2022, 11:40:48 AM »
My 168 raked more than 9000km outdoor and indoor now. No issues other than creaking headset.

And recently, I've tried to change its attitude. And it worked! Here it is.

Conti Terra Speed 650x35B on Hunt Adventure Sport wheels.


This is brilliant! Hadn't thought about what could be done by changing to 650B wheels. How much wider than 35 do you think it could go? Looks awesome.

Pigdog

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1345 on: September 02, 2022, 12:12:01 PM »
My 168 raked more than 9000km outdoor and indoor now. No issues other than creaking headset.

And recently, I've tried to change its attitude. And it worked! Here it is.

Conti Terra Speed 650x35B on Hunt Adventure Sport wheels.

This looks great! 650b and 35mm gravel tires is a great idea!
How does it feel on the gravel?

jokage

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1346 on: September 02, 2022, 11:03:02 PM »
I'd reply for both @Pigdog and @hazzer19

Thanks!

Based on my direct observation, this frame could actually accept 700x35c, but I could be wrong. Someone mentioned in this thread that they successfully fitted 700x34c Schwalbe slick with some space still.

I decided to get a set of 650b wheels in attempt to clear the toe overlap. On gravel, toe overlap is something I don't want to experience. With 650x35b, it successfully cleared the toe overlap; 700x35c will definitely make it worse.

Is there any space left with 650x35b? Yes. Around 1.5mm to the drive-side chain stay. So, in theory, you could jam in a set of 37mm, if you can find any. But better not. 35mm is the widest you can fit safely. 40mm is definitely a big no.

How it rides on gravel? I haven't actually test it on real gravel yet. Also, they are tubed for now due to Hunt's rim tapes came in a such poor condition. That means that I won't be able to enjoy the full experience even if I ride it on real gravel.
« Last Edit: September 02, 2022, 11:10:35 PM by jokage »

kbike

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1347 on: September 03, 2022, 04:05:03 AM »
I've done gravel on my 168. I can only fit 32mm on 700c. The issue for me is side knobs. My clement(donnelly) 33x700 tires touch/tap.  The gk ss fit. I'm sure there are slick tire/wheel combos that would let a 33 or 34mm work which I'm sure would work on the road.

 I don't like the idea of leaving no clearance when doing gravel.  All it takes is one wet gravel section and your gunked up tires will cut through you fork and chainstays.

As for the frame I have it slammed and isn't the best position for doing long all gravel rides. If you have max spacers for comfort it'd help a little but not like a relaxed geometry frame.

I've done 30 miles all gravel, 60 mixed light gravel. Then there always seems to be short sections of gravel, chip seal, pea rock on every ride cause there is so much road construction going on.

martocom

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1348 on: September 03, 2022, 08:19:00 AM »
Anyone tried to fit "The One Pro" Handlebar to the 168?

eucalyptus

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1349 on: September 03, 2022, 12:50:41 PM »
Anyone tried to fit "The One Pro" Handlebar to the 168?

I don't think that would be an issue at all looking at how easy it is to fit any headset to the Velobuild

I would recommend to buy directly from the manufacturer instead of all the resellers on Aliexpres.... I bought one and it feels pretty decent. TOP NOTCH finish, looks like any $3-400 handlebar
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/T1000-Carbon-Bike-Handlebar-Fully-Internal_1600457733782.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-bn-b.0.0.3acc2fc2w9Nt1I

Note* that a 400 bar measures 400mm C-C drop to drop and actually is 385mm C-C hood to hood.

Weight is 350g for a 400x100mm bar, 337g without screws and the heavy clamping plate (cast iron or something)

Stripping the thin layer of paint saves you 5 gram.