Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame

[Pigdog]

Just returned from my VB-168 maiden voyage. Hooray seatpost clamp finally arrived. Did a quick 45km jaunt and here are my initial thoughts. Naturally my opinion will probably change over time...

1. As a "complete" build, I consider the 168 an "everyday" aero bike. It doesn't punish you by being too harsh, and neither is it flexy.

2. No creeks, rattles, or headset play. This is a combination of using a quality threaded BB, cable sound insulation, and the FSA headset working as intended. I also used light thread-locker on both derailleur hanger bolts.

3. No brake rub issues. I purchased brand new Shimano Ultegra rotors and aligning the calipers to them was super easy. Shimano is known to sell rotors that still need to be slightly "trued" upon arrival, but in this case I suppose I won truing lottery. I haven't been so lucky in the past...

4. I am still an advocate that quality wheels are more important than a frame. But I will also include having a proper bike fit and really paying attention to the decision of components at the contact points (saddle and handlebars). A frameset is only one aspect of the complete ride experience, albeit a critical one. As a complete bike with my current components, and assuming everything continues to work as intended, the 168 is a solid value if budget is really tight and if you can only have "one" bike. It doesn't have the same feeling of "urgency" as my Winspace T1500 or Allez Sprint which want you to go fast all the time, and that's okay. Those frames cost 3-4x more and wheels/tire/tube selection also play a huge role. The 168 frame wont be the reason your performance suffers I can assure you...

Regarding the topic of facing the caliper mounts (and subsequently the bottom bracket and headset opening) I spoke to a professional bike mechanic earlier today, who mostly deals with high-end bikes for competitive racing of all disciplines. He says it's very common for new frames from major brands to arrive needing to be faced. Do what you want with this information LoL

Of course my personal experiences and industry conversations are purely anecdotal. I've been fortunate not have any brake rub issues on any of builds due to caliper facing issues. And this is regardless of whether or not a brand actually faced the mounts from the factory. I was concerned my 168 would have facing issues, but the brand new set of trued rotors immediately solved that issue.

I'll follow up in a couple of weeks. Probably.

Thanks for the great review! Appreciate your thoughts. And looking forward to your YouTube videos as well.
I agree on the facing. I have been asking a few friends in the industry and have been told the identical feedback as you. I got a quote from my local shop and they said $70 to do mine. That seems fair to
me.

[hazzer19]

Just returned from my VB-168 maiden voyage. Hooray seatpost clamp finally arrived. Did a quick 45km jaunt and here are my initial thoughts. Naturally my opinion will probably change over time...

1. As a "complete" build, I consider the 168 an "everyday" aero bike. It doesn't punish you by being too harsh, and neither is it flexy.

2. No creeks, rattles, or headset play. This is a combination of using a quality threaded BB, cable sound insulation, and the FSA headset working as intended. I also used light thread-locker on both derailleur hanger bolts.

3. No brake rub issues. I purchased brand new Shimano Ultegra rotors and aligning the calipers to them was super easy. Shimano is known to sell rotors that still need to be slightly "trued" upon arrival, but in this case I suppose I won truing lottery. I haven't been so lucky in the past...

4. I am still an advocate that quality wheels are more important than a frame. But I will also include having a proper bike fit and really paying attention to the decision of components at the contact points (saddle and handlebars). A frameset is only one aspect of the complete ride experience, albeit a critical one. As a complete bike with my current components, and assuming everything continues to work as intended, the 168 is a solid value if budget is really tight and if you can only have "one" bike. It doesn't have the same feeling of "urgency" as my Winspace T1500 or Allez Sprint which want you to go fast all the time, and that's okay. Those frames cost 3-4x more and wheels/tire/tube selection also play a huge role. The 168 frame wont be the reason your performance suffers I can assure you...

Regarding the topic of facing the caliper mounts (and subsequently the bottom bracket and headset opening) I spoke to a professional bike mechanic earlier today, who mostly deals with high-end bikes for competitive racing of all disciplines. He says it's very common for new frames from major brands to arrive needing to be faced. Do what you want with this information LoL

Of course my personal experiences and industry conversations are purely anecdotal. I've been fortunate not have any brake rub issues on any of builds due to caliper facing issues. And this is regardless of whether or not a brand actually faced the mounts from the factory. I was concerned my 168 would have facing issues, but the brand new set of trued rotors immediately solved that issue.

I'll follow up in a couple of weeks. Probably.

Great initial review! Looking forward to hearing your thoughts as time goes on.


How did you manage with routing the mechanical front derailleur cable?

[patliean1]

How did you manage with routing the mechanical front derailleur cable?

I used a Shimano outer cable end cap/ferrule, specifically the 4mm "long nose" version which helps quite a bit when initially routing.

Step 1: Unscrew the metal derailleur cable stopper guide attached to the frame.
Step 2: Gently guide the outer shift cable and ferrule through the cable stopper. This requires a little patience and finesse through the bottom bracket opening. 
Step 3: Reattach the derailleur cable stopper guide.

Pro Tip - To help guide the outer cable through the cable stopper...use an old (or new) shift cable as a "fish hook".

[voshond]

I updated the sheet today with the Axle Info and organised new products and images into the tabs (:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0

[shHH]

I am still struggeling with my rubbing headset. Is someone using the FSA No.55R headset? if not, do you think it is possible to use with the integrated cockpit of VB after removing the connection pins?
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/de/prodotti_1/steuersatze-ersatzteile/no-55r-1-5-acr

[patliean1]

I am still struggeling with my rubbing headset. Is someone using the FSA No.55R headset? if not, do you think it is possible to use with the integrated cockpit of VB after removing the connection pins?
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/de/prodotti_1/steuersatze-ersatzteile/no-55r-1-5-acr

From The Un-Official Guide To Fixing Headset Play thread

3. The top headset bearing is recessed too far into the head tube cup, causing the headset cover to rub on the frame, preventing the complete headset stack to properly compress. If this is the case you will need a thicker headset bearing (7mm, 7.5mm or 8mm thick) or a thicker c-ring so that it sits flush with the top of the headset opening on the frame, thus preventing the headset cover from rubbing the frame. EDIT: Another resolution is adding some micro spacers between the c-ring and top cap.

[1Sigma]

Regarding the topic of facing the caliper mounts (and subsequently the bottom bracket and headset opening) I spoke to a professional bike mechanic earlier today, who mostly deals with high-end bikes for competitive racing of all disciplines. He says it's very common for new frames from major brands to arrive needing to be faced. Do what you want with this information LoL
 

To me this indicates it’s just another thing to expect in general when building a bike, regardless of manufacturer.   In the pile with potentially creaky bottom brackets and headsets, and sliding seat posts

[Gvkrzyzaniak]

Hello,

Anyone would mind sharing a picture of the seatpost clamp, where the post meets the frame. I just received my package and I can't find anything to do the job. I emailed Chris but I wonder how long would it take a new one to arrive, so maybe I can buy one somewhere else.

Cheers lads

[martocom]

VeloBuild put a post up on Instagram not too long ago saying they were going to produce a 0mm offset post for the VB-R-168 after the demand they've seen for the VB-R-099 they recently released.

I'm sure if you send them a message they'll let you know when it's going to be available.

Was asking Chris and they don't have such plans. Not sure where you have seen this, but it was either not Velobuild or they dumped the plans.

[OlieSimpson]

Was asking Chris and they don't have such plans. Not sure where you have seen this, but it was either not Velobuild or they dumped the plans.

It was posted on VeloBuild's instagram (@velobuild.bikes) as I responded to the post saying I'd be interested in buying one once they become available.

They must have not received enough response to actually follow through with it unfortunately.

[patliean1]

Sounds like the geometry of the 168 isn't for everyone. And that's okay. However, you should probably consider yourself lucky...

I have the opposite problem in that most frames simply aren't long and low enough for me without requiring some extreme length stem.

Not sure which is more extreme: Needing to push the saddle far forward to reduce reach over the bottom bracket, or using a 140mm+ stem to accommodate reach while keeping the stack low.

[OlieSimpson]

Honestly I find my current set-up very comfortable - I'm 170cm with size 52 frame and 400mm/90mm HB011 integrated bars. No issues, soreness etc. on my longer 150km rides. I'm more curious to see what difference the 0mm set back would make and have an extra option if needed

I still need to get a proper bike fit as well so would be great to see what they would recommend.

[eucalyptus]

Sounds like the geometry of the 168 isn't for everyone. And that's okay. However, you should probably consider yourself lucky...

I have the opposite problem in that most frames simply aren't long and low enough for me without requiring some extreme length stem.

Not sure which is more extreme: Needing to push the saddle far forward to reduce reach over the bottom bracket, or using a 140mm+ stem to accommodate reach while keeping the stack low.

Just watched almost your entire 168 video on YT this morning while having breakfast.

I mean besides the room for improvements and such. You are such a great guy in front of the camera. And with all this "room for improvements" it also have its own charm, you are just starting up and being new with the entire YT influencer thing it is also understandable everything is not perfect.

What I wanna say is, you have  an incredible future ahead of you if you continue doing what you do. With frequent uploads, more content and some improvements you could easily be +100K subs by the end of 2023.

Just keep doing what you do man! More ride videos and more tech savvy stuff You are awesome

[gilj]

Received my frame today, something must have gone wrong with the fork I think, as it is not spaced 100mm between the dropouts (see picture).


In contact with Chris already so I'm sure this will get sorted. I'll update when it happens

Other than this it looks good. I'll have an update once I built it up

[bamboo_mountain]

I finally received my replacement handlebars from Velobuild, check out this creative packaging, no box just a label taped to this!