Velobuild VB-R-177

[Sebastian]

Hey folks,

I want to cut my steerer tube today but I want to confirm with you, that i am not doing something stupid. Instead of using the top cap that comes with the expander plug i need to use the one that comes with the stem (see images), right? So firstly i will cut the fork 3 mm below where the stem is touching  (red line in attached image, not to scale) then I will put the expander plug in there and tighten it. Then i will but the top cap (from the stem) and tighten the top cap. This will ensure that everything (spacers etc) is compressed properly.

Is this the right way to do it? Thanks for your help!

How low you have to cut depends on how much clearance you need between your steerer expander plug and your top cap in order to compress the whole headset assembly. I dunno what that top cap looks like from the bottom and how far it protrudes into the steerer. But that measurement is critical. Cutting the steerer below the upper clamping bolt is definitely too short, however. Because that bolt is there for a reason and your stem will only clamp to the steerer with the lower bolt.

Personally, I prefer to cut the steerer in line with the stem and have one small spacer below the top cap, just for peace of mind. With one piece bars like this one however, this becomes increasingly impossible due to the shape of the top cap.

[gruengelb]

How low you have to cut depends on how much clearance you need between your steerer expander plug and your top cap in order to compress the whole headset assembly. I dunno what that top cap looks like from the bottom and how far it protrudes into the steerer. But that measurement is critical. Cutting the steerer below the upper clamping bolt is definitely too short, however. Because that bolt is there for a reason and your stem will only clamp to the steerer with the lower bolt.

Personally, I prefer to cut the steerer in line with the stem and have one small spacer below the top cap, just for peace of mind. With one piece bars like this one however, this becomes increasingly impossible due to the shape of the top cap.

Thanks for your very helpful answer! When i posted my question i was not  even sure if the top "stem cap" (which is made out of carbon) is even capable of providing enough integrity to compress all the things together.

I attached another image showing the bottom and side view of the top cap. The distance between the two red lines is ~ 5mm. So when i cut the sterrer tube flush with the stem it would give me 5mm room for compression, which is probably ok. I could probably also just cut it 1 or 2 mm above the stem (leaving me with 3 to 4 mm) and it should be fine, right?

What you mention in the second paragraph is exactly what i would have done if i would have gotten a flat stem. Unfortunately i could not find anything for such curved top caps and stems...

[gruengelb]

What you mention in the second paragraph is exactly what i would have done if i would have gotten a flat stem. Unfortunately i could not find anything for such curved top caps and stems...

what i meant is that i could not find any instruction or tutorials for it

[Sebastian]

Yes, judging from your pics, there's probably enough room to adjust the preload if you just cut the steerer flush with the stem. The expander plug will then sit on top of the steerer and take up another 1-2mm and there's about 3mm of clearance for compression, which should be enough.

Do keep in mind however, that people had problems with headset play on this particular frame. I think most guys use micro spacers between the upper headset cap and the upper headset bearing. If you need to use one of those to eliminate headset play, that will require another milimeter or so of steerer length. Maybe someone else can chime in to answer that.

[gruengelb]

Yes, judging from your pics, there's probably enough room to adjust the preload if you just cut the steerer flush with the stem. The expander plug will then sit on top of the steerer and take up another 1-2mm and there's about 3mm of clearance for compression, which should be enough.

Do keep in mind however, that people had problems with headset play on this particular frame. I think most guys use micro spacers between the upper headset cap and the upper headset bearing. If you need to use one of those to eliminate headset play, that will require another milimeter or so of steerer length. Maybe someone else can chime in to answer that.

You are right - i forgot to consider the expander plug height. However, i checked again and the protrusion of the "stem cap" where the screw goes trough right in the middle actually does not sit flush with the top of the expander plug, but is formed in a way that it can go around 2 mm deeper into the expander plug. So coincidentally not considering both factors i would have gotten the right height still

[gruengelb]

Quick update: i cut the fork 2 mm above the stem. Fits perfectly now! :-)

[Liter]

1 Year review, just love the frame, specially when you get a proper stem/cap for the frame. The only thing that bothers me is the front thruaxle, why make that stupid endcap and not just make the inserts black/painted. The bike feels stiff, light and I fit just perfectly in the geometry.

It makes no sense to pay for a brand bike when you have this much quality on Velobuild.

[Takiyaki]

I am intrigued by these. 32mm tire clearance is great. I have a couple of questions:

- Any common issues to look out for?
- These do have conventional 27.2mm seatposts correct?
- Can I order the frameset w/no bars for less money? Would def rather get something else
- Any comparison pics of the S vs M? I am kind of between sizes but prob closer to the M (would just need a 10mm shorter stem + bar vs my 54cm FM208). I also think I would prefer the longer head tube + taller look of the M.
- Also would love to see any pics with 60mm deep wheels.

Some very nice builds here.

[zyxtc748]

Hello everyone. I am interested in this frame and like others have said some modifications need to be done to get rid of the headset play on some VB frames 168/177

will any of these products help?

Kocevlo Headset

sl7 expander/compressor ring

[zaphodbeeblebrox]

Hello everyone. I am interested in this frame and like others have said some modifications need to be done to get rid of the headset play on some VB frames 168/177

will any of these products help?

Kocevlo Headset

sl7 expander/compressor ring

I'm using a kocevelo stem/handlebar combo (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005036706669.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.28811802tiWTv4) on my vb-099 and surprisingly it fits perfectly with no headset play. Assuming that headset linked comes with the same stuff. Plus an extra-long compression plug I got on amazon.

Although I thought velobuild was now sending the thicker c-rings so headset play isn't an issue anymore?

[hazzer19]

I'm using a kocevelo stem/handlebar combo (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005036706669.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.28811802tiWTv4) on my vb-099 and surprisingly it fits perfectly with no headset play. Assuming that headset linked comes with the same stuff. Plus an extra-long compression plug I got on amazon.

Although I thought velobuild was now sending the thicker c-rings so headset play isn't an issue anymore?

Just finished a 177 build but ended up using my old HB011 bars and the headset/c ring combo it came with from my 168. Will post more on that build soon.


I did get an updated C ring for my GF-022 that uses the separate bar/stem combo and no longer have the headset play issues I had before.

[VeloBuild.Bikes]

Hi all - We just posted an updated regarding a newly designed c ring here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4183.msg46386.html#msg46386

Please check it out!

[pearl]

32mm tire clearance is great.

This frame won't clear 32mm tire width.

[patliean1]

This frame won't clear 32mm tire width.

It technically fits 32c GP5000 tubeless without rubbing, but I would only recommend on dry/smooth roads. I posted a photo a couple of months ago on this thread. Not saying it's optimal but it is possible.

[hazzer19]

Finished up my 177 build a couple of weeks ago and have been making a few final aesthetic touches.

Overall, really happy with how it turned out and how it rides. Zero issues putting the build together. Moved most of the parts over from my 168 except for the Magene Exar Ultra wheels which are new, carbon saddle from AliX and tubeless version of the Goodyear Eagle F1s I was running prior (which were constantly getting flats btw).

VeloBuild VB-R-177 frame
Magene EXAR Ultra 50/58 wheelset
Magene P325CS Dual PM
Hammerhead Karoo 2 computer
Magene L508 radar light
ZTTO BB86 threaded ceramic BB
MIXED Ultra Light 7D MAX Carbon Saddle 140MM
Goodyear Eagle F1 tubeless tires
11sp Di2 frankenmix
L-TWOO ospw

Really happy I made the switch, the 177 is not only a bit lighter but the main highlight coming over from the 168 I would say is how much stiffer it feels. I also like that although I think it's modelled after a Scott Addict, it looks a bit more unique given how common the SL7 which the 168 is designed after is. I think it's Velobuilds best road frame.

Currently using the original HB011 bars from my 168 which I'm considering swapping as it's the only piece with noticeable flex now that I have a stiffer frame and wheels. Only issue I had was that the moulding where the rear hanger outer piece goes seems to have some excess material, which changes the angle of the thread a bit and make the TA screw in a bit tougher than it should be. Aside from that, everything was smooth.

https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh
https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI
https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns
https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz
https://imgur.com/KhaujkN
https://imgur.com/pW3z35v