IP-256SL Winter Build

[blueducati]

I posted before about finding a source for the frame, and since now that is on order, I figure I'll start a build thread. I apologize ahead of time, I'm a roadie building his first MTB, so a lot of this is new to me and I could be way off on some of this stuff (hopefully nothing I've already bought). I built 2 road bikes and 1 TT bike, so I'm hoping I have enough experience that actually putting it together will be easier than picking stuff out.

Here is the start of my build list, I don't have everything figured out yet, but since I'm building this over the winter, I think I have time to figure it out and be choosy. I want this bike to be a bit different, and I want to do it on a relative budget, since I still race road bikes and that is my primary focus. Weight isn't as big a driver as is cost and durability.

UPDATED: 11/4

Frame: IP-256SL 17.5 BB30, 142X12, UD Matte  - (Ordered - iPlay)
Fork: 2013 Marzocchi Corsa SL RC 29                  - (Ordered - ebay)
Headset:   NECO / Iplay                                        - (Ordered - iPlay)
F Wheel:   ?? Plan to find something on ebay
R Wheel:  ??Plan to find something on ebay
Stem: ??Wait until frame arrives to choose size
Bars: ??Pick one from LBS
Grips: ??Pick one from LBS
Groupset: SRAM X9 1X10, Wolf Tooth Chainring, X7 Trigger Shifter
Brakes: Magura Next MT5
Rotor: Magura Storm SL
Seatpost: Ritchey comp?
Clamp: Vakind Blue
Pedals: Crank Brothers Candy 3 Blue
   

[carbonazza]

Good choice, the 256 frame is great fun to ride.

Since you are still in doubt. One of the things I'm most happy is the 1X set.
I took the rather expensive XX1, but there are clearly alternative options.

[blueducati]

Good choice, the 256 frame is great fun to ride.

Since you are still in doubt. One of the things I'm most happy is the 1X set.
I took the rather expensive XX1, but there are clearly alternative options.

I'm glad you brought that up. I'd love to go 1X, it really seems to simplify things, and it would be nice to lose that FD. But man, that XX1 stuff is expensive. I'd have to figure out how to do it another way.

My main hesitation is that I'll be riding with a bunch of guys that are running 2X setups, and I want to make sure I can hang in with them when riding on the flat rail trails / dirt roads around here. Do you find that your gearing is sufficient so that you never spin out?

Thanks for the help!

[blueducati]

So after doing some reading. (http://oldglorymtb.com/how-to-build-mountain-bike-1x-drivetrain-made-easy-1x9-1x10-1x11/)

According to this, if I go SRAM X9 Type 2 RD, I can run a cheap cassette (PG1070), and then get a Wolf Tooth Ring (and maybe a chain guide) and I should be ok.


Question for the group, has anyone built a 256SL with BB30? I saw the drawing for the frame, and it looks like the bottom bracket shell is 92mm wide, not 73 that would indicate BB30. Am I missing something? I'm not sure which BB I need to buy. Thanks-

[Vipassana]

I built 3 BB30 IP-256s.  I will measure the BB width if I remember tonight. I seem to recall it being 68mm wide, bit don't quote me on that.

Of the three, two had creaking in the bottom bracket with a normal greased up bearing install.  One was/is quiet.  With the two noisy ones, the Loc-tite fix you read about on the forums seemed to do the trick to silence them.  I would recommend doing the Loc-tite from the get go.

[blueducati]

If I remember right, you built yours with xx1, so I'm guessing you used the normal SRAM PF30 BB. But yeah, if you can measure that would be a big help! Thanks!

[Sussed.]

Hi 7,

I'm pretty sure it will be a 68mm shell. (But let others confirm !!)  IF you ordered the BB30 it will be a standard BB30 not PF. 

Something like this :

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-bb30-bb-assembly-kit-alloy-bearings/rp-prod40333

I installed the SRAM BB30 and it hasn't creaked yet.  However it seems that one of the bearings is already a bit crunchy ! 

[blueducati]

Oh, thanks for clearing that up, I think you just saved me some money! I thought I had read that PF was just a different nomenclature for a "PressFit" BB30. I just found a better description and you are certainly right, they fit into different shell diameters. http://wheelsmfg.com/bb30-vs-pf30

Pressing in a BB is new to me, the road frames I built had them installed already.

[snipe]

So after doing some reading. (http://oldglorymtb.com/how-to-build-mountain-bike-1x-drivetrain-made-easy-1x9-1x10-1x11/)

According to this, if I go SRAM X9 Type 2 RD, I can run a cheap cassette (PG1070), and then get a Wolf Tooth Ring (and maybe a chain guide) and I should be okay

Type 2 clutch derailleur and a narrow wide chain ring and I think you can avoid the chain guide.  The cheap cassettes though sometimes have fewer cogs connected onto a main carrier and if you have an aluminum freehub body you will gouge that more.  For that reason I usually go for the XT cassette or the high end srams.

[blueducati]

Thanks for the tips snipe! Yeah, by "cheap" I meant not a $400 xx1 cassette!! I'll go with a decent SRAM one.

[brmeyer135]

amazing, XT which is the equivalent of x9 to XO in SRAM is cheap in comparison.
The XT cassette can be bought for 60ish US these days.....though, it is not particularly light.

[blueducati]

Picked up a pretty good deal on crank arms, shifters and a RD today. X9 RD and cranks, and x7 shifters. Since I'm going to go 1x10, I wanted just the crank arms so I could get a wolf tooth chain ring. I don't know if the RD is a type 2, but for 60 bucks for all that, I'll give it a try.

[Vipassana]

That's a great deal!

What's your budget on the wheels?

[blueducati]

Haven't really put too much thought yet into wheels, maybe a couple hundred? I was hoping to find some sturdy tubeless ready ones on eBay. We have a Michigan Bike Classified Facebook page that has a lot of traffic so maybe I'll try there. I wasn't planning on the chinese carbon route, but I don't even know how much those are.

Any suggestions? I plan to ride this winter (if I can get it built in time) so I don't want something too nice. Like I mentioned before, since this if my first MTB, I want to go sturdy/low cost before I worry about weight. If I like this as much as I like road riding, maybe I'll get some carbon wheels in the future.

[cmh]

I don't know if the RD is a type 2, but for 60 bucks for all that, I'll give it a try.

I'm not as well versed in the SRAM parts, but sure looks like the type 2 - you can see the extra button slightly to the lower right of the jockey pulley cage pivot which locks the derailleur forward for wheel changes.  Think you totally scored on that one!