LightCarbon 918?

[jefflinde]

I got a new rear triangle last week and we installed it. Even visually, it looks significantly better than before when compared side by side.
Now it’s not crooked and the spacers look even. Check the attachments.

I went on one ride and everything went well. I’ll report back on how it behaves in the future.

I also upgraded brakes from XT to XTR and got a new headset from EasyBikeParts (the one where the cables are fixed in place). Video attached.
I hope the cable durability will be better now, since the stock integrated headset had been damaging them.

Also went with longer stem on the handlebar (70>80mm), we cut steerer all the way now.
Only paid for the handlebar, obv. The painting and delivery took some time, but at least they are fast with response to my concerns or requests.

OMG that headset is amazing.  I have been contemplating buying a whole new bike because I HATE the headset situation.  this looks like a perfect option.  thank you so much for posting this.

[ChristEr]

I checked mine ; bought it in April 2024, don’t seem to have this triangle problem. The angles are straight just like your replacement part.
The hardware (screws, bearings) are not of good quality. The screws rust almost instantly and the headset bearings already have a lot of play after one year.
I like the easyparts solution; can you retrofit it instead of the stock headset ? Is the height above the headtube shorter ?

Overall I’m very happy with my build ; it is light and stiff. It suits me well on the single trails in the Netherlands. I would suggest LightCarbon to supply best quality bearings or let the customer source their own. It would improve the quality of your purchase as a whole.

[Gbodorr]

Quick follow-up on the frame:
I’ve done about 600 km since the rear triangle was replaced, and I haven’t had any more issues. The bearings aren’t the problem (they’re original Enduro) as long as the tolerances in the link/triangle area are correct. So I’d say my issue is resolved. I’m really happy with the bike now. I fell this weekend hard during muddy race, hahah.

A friend of mine had a quality issue with his road bike frame (crooked and moving seatpost, plus a poorly machined thru-axle slot on the front fork), but he received a replacement that’s top-notch. They also covered all return shipping costs.
In the end, they do resolve everything, it just takes a bit of time due to shipping. You have to mention right from the start that you want the best quality control possible.
In the attachments, you can find photos I took today. The video is from a race that took place 2 weeks ago.

[langereise]

What bottle cage are you using?

[Gbodorr]

What bottle cage are you using?

These are the bottle cages I’m using; they’re great: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006021142109.html

Sorry guys, I need to make another update. Yesterday I said everything was resolved, but unfortunately, it’s not.

My bike was at the mechanic for a quick check-up before the stage race next week (Wild Bear). He checked the bottom screws at 10 Nm (the suggested torque is 13 Nm).
Unfortunately, the crunching noise was there, which means the bearing was already damaged again.
Not as severely this time, but a few balls are toast (picture 1). I’ve done exactly 640km/12610m since the rear triangle was replaced.

This time the screw didn’t come loose, but you can see a bit of wear on one side of the screw head (picture 2).

Tomorrow we’ll install a new Enduro Max bearing, but with small washers on each side. I’ll make another post showing how that goes.
We don’t really have another choice because of the upcoming race and the fact that I’m riding and training on this bike weekly. I do have an Orbea hardtail as a backup, though we’ll see.

What I don’t understand is how others with this frame don’t seem to have the same issue. We literally replaced both the link and the rear triangle, and it keeps happening.
There must be something fundamentally wrong with the entire linkage/triangle design. I’m not an engineer, so I can’t say for sure what’s going on, but I assume the design puts too much stress on that particular part during riding.

I’ve sent a message to Jim to ask about my options.

[robotsonD]

Only 6 bearings so I upgraded to a good spec.

Thanks for the info. I don't suppose you noted down the bearing sizes? as I also needed to replace and ideally would like to order before I remove the old ones to reduce down time?

[borysgo2]

Hi.
My LCFS918 done over 2000km so far (1400km bike packing trip month ago). I am a bit heavy - about 92kG, fully loaded bike was about 35-38kG. So far all is fine but just for curiosity I am going to check rear triangle/link bearings and report.
Frame is OK, bike rides lively and light, there is good control when going over rough sections of trail, done also some easy enduro trails and all is OK.

[Ulf]

Hi
I´am just starting to build my918,
New to mtb and I have some problem to choose a dropper post, to many variants...
The bike is L and Iám 187
Any suggestions?

Ulf Hansén
Sweden

[Gbodorr]

I’m inclined to make an update post, as I felt like I left everyone hanging regarding my frame situation.

Anyway, since the last fix we did, I’ve ridden 61 h / 1,093.33 km / 26,535 m and so far, there have been no further issues.

The FIX was to add one shim between the middle piece of the linkage and one on the outer piece, so it sits directly on the bearing.
Once screws are now tightened from both sides, nothing really compresses towards the middle as before. The tolerances are now correct. It sits flush, exactly as it should.
The new rear triangle was still necessary though.

The shims are extremely thin, around 0.1 mm.

So, if anyone is experiencing similar issues, check how your spacers look on BOTH sides:
- Are they straight or slightly crooked?
- Is the spacing identical on ALL contact points?

If not, shimming can help, BUT it needs to be very close to perfect from the factory.
Linkage tolerances must be checked 100% by QC, and I’m confident they’ve taken steps to prevent this issue on future orders.
According to Jim, they made improvements to address this.
Heads-up to Jim & LC, professionals 👍

To be honest, I’m probably in the minority when it comes to how this bike is being used. I’m riding it at its limits, beating the hell out of it on very rough terrain and in harsh conditions, intentionally. This is my race bike.

I’ll post updates if anything changes.

[ChILd_ReBoRn]

So I'm pulling the plug on a LC FS918 frame, size L.
I have one concern, and while I wait for the answer from Mr. Jim, I'll ask you as well. What is the real life max insert in the L frame? The specifications say 220mm, but I believe (and truly hope) it's more than that. MY specialized epic has a seat tube length of 470mm, and 220mm max insert, same as the L frame from LC, but I can insert close to 25cm inside with no problems. I'm running a 170mm dropper which is 480mm + 23mm for the valve. Rock shox web page says that it will not fit my frame (270mm is outside, so 23,3cm inside which shouldn't fit), but it fits without issues.
While looking at the frame picture, and the seat tube length, it looks like there's more than half of the total length straight, so don't know why's there a 220mm limit...(the red line is exactly half the length of the black one which represents 470mm of the seat tube).
I just bought the axs dropper.. it would be a major PITA, and in my wallet if I need to exchage it....(bought the 170mm version because the price was a bargain)

Does anybody run the L frame so he can verify how deep can a seatpost really go?

Thank you

[jefflinde]

I will check insert depth tomorrow on my large frame but I believe the limit is where the bottle mount rivnuts are in the frame.

[ChILd_ReBoRn]

I will check insert depth tomorrow on my large frame but I believe the limit is where the bottle mount rivnuts are in the frame.

I will be much obliged if you do. Mr. Jim is about to invoice me....

[jefflinde]

I was able to put a seat post into the frame just over 300mm. The post hit the water bottle rivnut on the seat tube.  So you should be able to get a dropper post about 280mm or so into the frame with out issue.

[ChILd_ReBoRn]

I got good news. Jim said they'll ship the frame after 25th. That's much sooner then I anticipated...
Meanwhile I'm playing around with some mock-ups...

I'm a w40k fan

[ChILd_ReBoRn]

Quick follow up.
I received my frame yesterday, and I'm disappointed. The overall quality and finish are immaculate. But there are issues.
I have asked and was agreed upon getting holes on my downtube for the cable routing. Instead.. I got that idiotic "through the headtube" option. I Only need to route the rear brake hose. but non the less.. I KNOW it will get damaged inside the headset space.

Another problem was the shock mounting hardware. The bolt that should hold the shock in place was a bi*ch to get out. It was so tightly in, that even with lubrification.. it went out  with all the anodization stripping off. After removing it.. I realised that the lower end of the shock (8x40mm hardware) doesn't fit inside the link. The space is 1mm to small. The link is a heavy piece of aluminium, and it doesn't have that much give. I had to release all the bolts that connect the link to the rear triangle.. and I managed just barely, with a bit more force that I would have liked, to fit it it.
After that.. I continued to check the other bolts. They all have torque specs on them (only the one that holds the shock don't). One of the bolts holding the link to the frame went out like a breeze. The other one.. that was I fight that I was sure I would lose. I was mentally preparing for the snapped bolt and a warranty hassle, but eventually it went out. The threads are stripped, and I presume that they cross threaded it it the factory.

Last but not the least....the rear suspension has a spring effect. It's like it is under tension. It doesn't move freely, but rather in jerky moves. Can't see a reason why that that would be normal behaviour other than some misalignment issues (video link attached).
The only thing that didn't give me issues was the derailleur hanger. I'm scared to even try to screw in the bottom bracket, and fit the headset...

Really.. really disappointing.

I have contacted Mr. Jim, and waiting for his response...

I definitively need a new set of bolts.. and maybe even the whole link. Not sure what is going on with the threads in the top tube... I could try to swap the bolts.. But I fear that the pieces of aluminium from the bolt might have contaminated the threads in the frame.. Perhaps I could use a M6 tap and try to clear them out....

I'll wait for the info from Mr. Jim first...

https://youtu.be/o_DnS9aeDmM?si=3Z64AabXzMgtXW5p