YOu can disconnect the brifters from the lines and no fluid will come out- just do it with the levers not installed on the bars so you can orient their position relative to the calipers and keep the connection pointed towards the ceiling as you disconnect. Removing the brake pads and putting in spacers is key as is not squeezing the lever when it's disconnected:)
Once the hose is cut and re-barbed (push the olive ALL the way to the end and ensure it stays there otherwise if messes up the caliper port), tighten back up (you need an 8 & a 10 at the same time) and give it a pump.
Leave this connnected, bring the caliper above the levers (or vice versa) and then unscrew the caliper bleed port and attach a syringe with 50mm or so of oil already in it. Screw in finger tight.
Now turn the fill port open, and put a cup there about 30% full of fluid. Pump a few more times, now push in the syringe very slowly. Knock on the caliper and brifter as well as the lines esp near the caliper and where there are turns with a rubber hammer or screwdriver handle.
Now comes the important part! It's vacuum, not pressure which bleeds brakes. The system is normally at STP so there's always air in the system. Using a vacuum you can pull out much more air including that dissolved in the fluid (at STP) for a really great feel. Pull very slowly and see the bubbles come out of suspension. Let it rest a minute and get all the bubbles to the top of the syringe before preceeding again until there's no bubbles for at least two syringe strokes at the cup or in the syringe under vacuum.
Now, seal the brifter first, then put it below the caliper. Now undo the sryinge and you're done! Take a ride very slowly and pump esp over bumps. Make sure the feel doesn't change and you're done! Brakes fillers don't need "manstrength" (I'm female) btw, just slight torque not much at all esp at the brifters. More or less the same with connectors- I do them to maybe 5nm (by feel).
