LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets

[jonathanf2]

I would try the eR7 or new V3 eR9/X, but my V1 LTwoo eR9 groupsets are still working well and the batteries I'm using have been stable. I do think the latest iteration of LTwoo groupsets are probably the most stable. Compared to Wheeltop, there appears to be more failures, loss of bluetooth connection issues and all-around slower performance. Even race mode on Wheeltop is barely faster than low speed shift mode on LTwoo.

[nick82]

isnt this too many extra links

[Unknownftp]

Really surprised there's not more noise about the LTWOO ER7 groupset, with discounts I managed to get it for £278.37......

it's got a the different rear mech without the swinging link, the front mech looks very similar to the ERX and the shifters have the newer ergonomic hoods and levers - they are probably alloy levers though.

Now on to the shifters and some other subtle differences, there is a bluetooth function that does not appear on my Gen 3 ERX levers that allows the app to update the shifter firmware, also I can only get the ER7 rear mech to pair with the supplied ER7 shifters.

I tried to pair the mech with some EGR shifters and it won't find them - however I can get the new ER7 shifters to pair with the older Gen3 ERX mech

Also firmware - my ERX mech is at 1.7 and the ER7 is at 1.2 - for some reason I was thinking they'd be the same because i'd assumed the internals would be the same, clearly not.

Other changes, the rear mech has an extended cable port and a cable loop clip, and the function button seems to be in a much more convenient position.

Interesting at the versions difference. I happened to be on ali the other night at the 318 bike store had their full groupset (BSA bb, "er7" senicx I believe 165mm crankset, chain and 12sp 11-32 cassette) and it was at 418ish, so with coupons and coins, I got it down to 360 total.

My gen 1 erx RD crapped out so I will be happy to have a functioning groupset again.

[PeterLC]

Hello,
I don’t know if this has been discussed before (sorry if it has and I missed it), but has anybody successfully adjusted front derailleur of ERX V3 with a standard 43.5mm road chainline crankset ?
I now have ERX V3 on two bikes, am very happy with rear derailleur / shifters. But front derailleurs drive me crazy, they won’t go in enough so inner plate always rubs the chain on most cogs when on the front chainring. I’m at the maximum inner limit adjustment both with the app or manually with the press button + shift down button adjustment method.
It seems the front derailleur was designed for 45mm or more chainline… it’s almost like a gravel front derailleur which absolutely makes no sense considering it’s a road groupset with a max rear derailleur capacity for a 32T cassette…
I saw on facebook ltwoo users groupsets this issue is not a « me issue », yet I haven’t seen anyone coming up with a successful solution… so really hoping someone managed to solve the issue here as I’m right now stuck with two bikes not fully functional because of that (I removed an Ultegra groupset di2 on one of the two bikes… so it kills me to have to re-switch everything).

Thanks in advance, fingers crossed there is a trick to allow front derailleur to move more in !!

[Ludo]

Not sure if that helps you but Ltwoo just released this video:
https://youtu.be/FCHXt6VdILI?si=bAmkjfHTR4FkMKBf

[hsaus]

I don’t know if this has been discussed before (sorry if it has and I missed it), but has anybody successfully adjusted front derailleur of ERX V3 with a standard 43.5mm road chainline crankset ?
I now have ERX V3 on two bikes, am very happy with rear derailleur / shifters. But front derailleurs drive me crazy, they won’t go in enough so inner plate always rubs the chain on most cogs when on the front chainring. I’m at the maximum inner limit adjustment both with the app or manually with the press button + shift down button adjustment method.
It seems the front derailleur was designed for 45mm or more chainline… it’s almost like a gravel front derailleur which absolutely makes no sense considering it’s a road groupset with a max rear derailleur capacity for a 32T cassette…

Yes! I'm having lots of trouble adjusting the v3 FD. Even with the limit for the small chainring set to 1, there's cage rub when in the largest cog at the rear.

I'm using a carbon fiber crankset (Leese with 24mm titanium spindle), and though I haven't measured the chainline very precisely, I think it's pretty close to standard Shimano 11s (43.5mm) or 12s (44.5mm) chainline. I'm planning to experiment with some spacers, and I'll report back with any findings.

[Gloopann]

Really surprised there's not more noise about the LTWOO ER7 groupset, with discounts I managed to get it for £278.37......

it's got a the different rear mech without the swinging link, the front mech looks very similar to the ERX and the shifters have the newer ergonomic hoods and levers - they are probably alloy levers though.

Now on to the shifters and some other subtle differences, there is a bluetooth function that does not appear on my Gen 3 ERX levers that allows the app to update the shifter firmware, also I can only get the ER7 rear mech to pair with the supplied ER7 shifters.

I tried to pair the mech with some EGR shifters and it won't find them - however I can get the new ER7 shifters to pair with the older Gen3 ERX mech

Also firmware - my ERX mech is at 1.7 and the ER7 is at 1.2 - for some reason I was thinking they'd be the same because i'd assumed the internals would be the same, clearly not.

Other changes, the rear mech has an extended cable port and a cable loop clip, and the function button seems to be in a much more convenient position.

I've seen them but I figured that the lack of people talking about them meant something wasn't right about them.

Can you explain the functional differences between the eR7 and eR9/eRx like I am five and a complete newbie?

The price difference between them is compelling enough for me to consider it over the eR9 but I want to make sure I wouldn't shoot myself in the foot by getting the er7.

[PeterLC]

Not sure if that helps you but Ltwoo just released this video:
https://youtu.be/FCHXt6VdILI?si=bAmkjfHTR4FkMKBf

Unfortunately no… just like you I saw this video popping up on YouTube yesterday and hoped for a miracle  …
Unfortunately I was already on latest firmware and the front derailleur don’t go inside more no matter how I try to adjust it.

Either :
1) ltwoo can allow the front derailleur to go more « in » with a firmware and/or app update.
2) it’s mechanically not possible because of the front derailleur design/construction in which case it’s a whole other issue and it will take an updated new front derailleur to solve the issues to the many users having this issue with a 43.5mm to 44mm crankset chainline.

I find it crazy that a road groupset can’t work with a road crankset. Other than that the groupset is quite nice… but that’s such a bummer  :'(

[PeterLC]

Yes! I'm having lots of trouble adjusting the v3 FD. Even with the limit for the small chainring set to 1, there's cage rub when in the largest cog at the rear.

I'm using a carbon fiber crankset (Leese with 24mm titanium spindle), and though I haven't measured the chainline very precisely, I think it's pretty close to standard Shimano 11s (43.5mm) or 12s (44.5mm) chainline. I'm planning to experiment with some spacers, and I'll report back with any findings.

Issues with using a spacer :
- you will make your qfactor asymetrical, thus you will need a pedal qfactor washer between left pedals and left crankarm if you want to maintain your pedal stance symetrical.
- you arz pushing your chainline to the right, thus crossing big ring with large cogs will be even worse on the chain.

I’m considering trying that as well… even though we should not have to… but it’s far from ideal ! It will take around 1.5mm for me to enter the front derailleur iner limit adjustment with no rubbing… that’s quite a lot.

[mashiro2004]

Hello,
I don’t know if this has been discussed before (sorry if it has and I missed it), but has anybody successfully adjusted front derailleur of ERX V3 with a standard 43.5mm road chainline crankset ?
I now have ERX V3 on two bikes, am very happy with rear derailleur / shifters. But front derailleurs drive me crazy, they won’t go in enough so inner plate always rubs the chain on most cogs when on the front chainring. I’m at the maximum inner limit adjustment both with the app or manually with the press button + shift down button adjustment method.
It seems the front derailleur was designed for 45mm or more chainline… it’s almost like a gravel front derailleur which absolutely makes no sense considering it’s a road groupset with a max rear derailleur capacity for a 32T cassette…
I saw on facebook ltwoo users groupsets this issue is not a « me issue », yet I haven’t seen anyone coming up with a successful solution… so really hoping someone managed to solve the issue here as I’m right now stuck with two bikes not fully functional because of that (I removed an Ultegra groupset di2 on one of the two bikes… so it kills me to have to re-switch everything).

Thanks in advance, fingers crossed there is a trick to allow front derailleur to move more in !!

Hi, I have an LTWOO ER7, and I had the opposite problem. With a Senicx PR3 46-30 crankset and a 47 chainline, the front derailleur struggled to shift from 30 to 46 under load, but everything worked fine in a stand.
I tried both 11-speed and 12-speed, and the latter was even worse.
Thanks to the help of @jonathanf2 and the seller 318 bike store, I tried a couple of solutions, but neither solved the problem.
I finally gave up and installed a Shimano R5800 11-speed crankset with a 43.5 chainline and aftermarket Zrace chainrings.



To recap, my working setup is:
11-28 Zrace 12-speed cassette
Shimano R5800 crankset with Zrace chainrings
12-speed shimano CN-M6100 chain
Under these conditions, I get good front shifting and no rubbing issues, setting the internal limit to the minimum and experimenting with the central adjustment screw.
Unfortunately, the original chainrings on the R5800 crankset were worn, since I had the best shifting ever with those. Although I have to say that the zrace, considering the cost (less than €20 with discounts), are very good, obviously the original Shimano ones that cost around €120 are better.
Now I'll do another experiment with Miche 48-34 chainrings (it's an Italian brand now owned by Willier Triestina) and then I'll see what I can do.
Do you have 11 or 12 speeds? If you have 11 speeds, you can try a 12-speed chain (which I can assure you works on 11-speed chainrings and sprockets). Maybe the thinner chain won't rub.


@MikeeP Is the ER7 front derailleur the same as the ER9/ERX??

[nick82]

Hi, I have an LTWOO ER7, and I had the opposite problem. With a Senicx PR3 46-30 crankset and a 47 chainline, the front derailleur struggled to shift from 30 to 46 under load, but everything worked fine in a stand.
I tried both 11-speed and 12-speed, and the latter was even worse.
Thanks to the help of @jonathanf2 and the seller 318 bike store, I tried a couple of solutions, but neither solved the problem.
I finally gave up and installed a Shimano R5800 11-speed crankset with a 43.5 chainline and aftermarket Zrace chainrings.



To recap, my working setup is:
11-28 Zrace 12-speed cassette
Shimano R5800 crankset with Zrace chainrings
12-speed shimano CN-M6100 chain
Under these conditions, I get good front shifting and no rubbing issues, setting the internal limit to the minimum and experimenting with the central adjustment screw.
Unfortunately, the original chainrings on the R5800 crankset were worn, since I had the best shifting ever with those. Although I have to say that the zrace, considering the cost (less than €20 with discounts), are very good, obviously the original Shimano ones that cost around €120 are better.
Now I'll do another experiment with Miche 48-34 chainrings (it's an Italian brand now owned by Willier Triestina) and then I'll see what I can do.
Do you have 11 or 12 speeds? If you have 11 speeds, you can try a 12-speed chain (which I can assure you works on 11-speed chainrings and sprockets). Maybe the thinner chain won't rub.


@MikeeP Is the ER7 front derailleur the same as the ER9/ERX??

you can get shimano r7100 chainrings for about 25-30 dollars on aliexpress

[Lordfauntleroy]

More ltwoo erx V3 front derailleur issues: I have chain rub on the front derailleur when in the small chainring and in gears 1- 3/4. Like other people it's as if the derailleur won't move inboard enough.
I have a few questions, and if anyone can help with any of them I'd be very grateful.
Firstly, does anyone know how to reset the derailleur? I would like it to return to a neutral position and try again to fine tune it. Apart from the rubbing issue, the half gear trim actually changes gear, so it's definitely a bit out of whack.
Secondly, I bought some crank spacers to take up a bit of slack in the crank. A 2mm spacer was a bit tight and was stopping the crank arms spinning totally free so I only have 1mm and the washer, 1.1mm total in it. I'm going to buy some washers and try up that to 1.6mm or more total. That should give me a bit of space. Would it be worth it to put a spacer behind the cassette at the rear? It wouldn't have as much of an effect at moving the chain out as at the front, but I'm not far off the thing running smoothly. I have a 12 speed cassette on a hg free hub. I'm not sure one would even fit? Does anyone know if this would cause other problems?

Also, regarding the app, when adjusting the front derailleur limits, there is a little target, bullseye symbol in the bottom right. What does this do? It seems to reset the derailleur somehow, but it's not clear how to use it. It's not on any video I've seen of people adjusting the FD using the app?

[Chiyou]

The manual calls the bullseye symbol 'one key reset' but beyond that one vague explanation there is no further clarification of what exactly is being reset to what levels. I'm guessing it's resetting the FD back to the factory defaults but it's all a bit of a mystery.

[Udeson]

Hey Fellows,

I've finally managed to install my purchased ERX groupset.
I bled the brakes as described in the instructions. Everything's fine on the right brake lever. The left brake lever looks like it's leaking out from the upper locking bolt on lever. You can see the mineral oil seeping out.
Additionally, the pin/piston in the brake lever (I think it is called master cylinder) is making a smacking noise (this isn't the case with the right brake lever) - see video attached.
Do you guys have any similar experience and/or way of explaining how, or if it's even possible to repair it?

If it is not repairable, are the shiftet / levers of the ERX interchangeable with ER9 or ER7 versions and where to get this as separate spare parts?


Thanks for your help in advance.

[Lordfauntleroy]

The manual calls the bullseye symbol 'one key reset' but beyond that one vague explanation there is no further clarification of what exactly is being reset to what levels. I'm guessing it's resetting the FD back to the factory defaults but it's all a bit of a mystery.

Very helpful thanks.
I didn't see this. I have a paper copy of the instructions that came with the groupset, but it's slightly different to the online version.