LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets

[jonathanf2]

I think he meant whether you put the funnel on the shifter or on the caliper, which I guess would mean you'd do the whole thing at a 90 degree angle
Do you remove the wheel and put a brake block when you pump the levers, or you do that with the wheel on?
And for everyone's benefit, I assume you unscrew the the little grub screw thing on the paddle beforehand, or you don't bother?

I definitely put the funnel on the shifters, not the caliper. At that point I might as well do a full bleed! 

I leave the wheel on, I don't remove the disc pads, I don't even adjust the grub screw (thought that might help). I put a small towel around my front disc rotor in case of accidental spills. I place the funnel on the shifter with a small amount of mineral oil and I pump the brake lever until the brakes feel adequate. Repeat the process on the other shifter and afterwards wipe everything down with an alcohol spray and towel.

This is more of a general maintenance routine. I still do proper bleeds if there is no brake pressure or if I'm doing a rebuild, etc.

[hsaus]

Once on a rebuild I had a really hard time getting the rear brake to feel solid, after having tried all sorts of tricks. The rebuild included starting from new empty brake hoses and new calipers (ZRace).

So I lifted the frame up against the garage wall to ensure the hose pointed down all the way from the shifter to the caliper, and used some elastic bands to keep the brake lever pressed in. I left it like that overnight. The next day took the frame down from the wall, put the wheel back, and did a lever bleed (exactly as jonathanf2 describes above). Lots of air bubbles came out, and the result was an extremely solid brake feel - even better than for the front brake that I was already satisfied with.

Photos attached, keep in mind that I use the left lever for the rear brake.

[jonathanf2]

I've also tried using a massage gun to push out stubborn bubbles! 

In general though, I find the LTwoo hydraulic shift levers pretty solid. Braking has been the least of my issues with LTwoo. The new EGR/V3 calipers are really good. Despite the use of wonky adapter plates, they actually make aligning with the disc rotors easier compared to straight flat mount calipers.

[amacal1]

In general though, I find the LTwoo hydraulic shift levers pretty solid. Braking has been the least of my issues with LTwoo. The new EGR/V3 calipers are really good. Despite the use of wonky adapter plates, they actually make aligning with the disc rotors easier compared to straight flat mount calipers.

Agreed. Occasionally I creep over and read through the thread on the wheeltop groupos and have seen some scary stories (maybe the same person, maybe not, I forget) involving the brakes. With my eGR I've had not a single experience that has shaken my confidence in the brakes. I can't imagine having to second guess something so critical. They've been easy to setup, easy to maintain, and have always worked fantastically well, even for a disc brake newb like myself.

[00Garza]

My GR9 brakes started having trouble in hot conditions. Replaced them with grx calipers. Have them in a box and haven't bothered troubleshooting them.
The eGR brakes on my gravel bike (which should be done today!!) look like a different design so I'm giving them a shot. I have some spare 105 calipers on hand just in case.

[toxin]

So has anybody got significant time with the TT/V3 variants? I'm thinking of getting a road groupset plus TT shifters and brake levers and setting them up with Zeno hydraulic quick connectors to make a road bike that can easily be converted into a TT bike with a TT basebar and extensions. Any experiences running 1x with the road rear mech?

Shimano kinda sucks for this and sram is too expensive

[jonathanf2]

So has anybody got significant time with the TT/V3 variants? I'm thinking of getting a road groupset plus TT shifters and brake levers and setting them up with Zeno hydraulic quick connectors to make a road bike that can easily be converted into a TT bike with a TT basebar and extensions. Any experiences running 1x with the road rear mech?

Shimano kinda sucks for this and sram is too expensive

They removed the charging port on the RD with V3. The V3 requires the FD to charge via the USB type-C port. You'd have to pick up a spare V1 ER9/X RD in order to run it 1x with charging or remove the batteries and charge it in a separate charger. My V1 ER9 RD  firmware was updated to work with the TT shifters.

Photos of the V3 ER9. No charging port:

[toxin]

Eh, that's not a big deal, I'd run it primarily in 2X and just take off the FD for rare occasions. Even then, can just hook up the FD to act as a charging adapter if absolutely neccessary.

[jonathanf2]

My only other issue would be chain retention in 1x. I'm not sure if they've improved tension on the V3, the V1 feels a bit loose. I'd make sure to run a properly sized chain and dial the B-screw properly. I switched to Ultegra pulley wheels just to get the upper jockey wheel as close as possible to the small cog.

[toxin]

I'd probably 3d print myself a chain guide similar to this for 1x

[Davide Panzeri]

Hi,
What do you think is the best place to buy the L-TWOO ER9 or ERX right now?

[Alastair_S1D]

Well I am seriously confused as to what is going on with my brakes. I've been bleeding the rear for over an hour pumping the lever and bubbles just keep coming out. I am convinced I have leaks in the system somewhere but I am seeing no signs of oil leakage anywhere around the levers or caliper.

Ive moved to the front brake and opened the reservoir and it was almost dry in there as well. But I still had some braking on the front of my bike.

I'm currently using Casterol LHM Plus as brake fluid. It's a mineral oil that I have used for a long time with great success on my MTBs. Is this fluid too thin that it's just pressing out somewhere or something.?

[Alastair_S1D]

Found it.

My brakes are leaking from the pistons.

[Rajmundx]

What is the difference between ER9 a ERX? Only that ER9 is alluminium and ERX is carbon?

[Chiyou]

Functionally they are the same; the difference is purely cosmetic and some very minor weight savings in favor of some of the eRX components.