LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets

[jonathanf2]

I think the o-ring barb is more of an extra precaution. A Chinese cyclist was telling me online about some sort of air intake leakage issue. It could be LTwoo's attempt at mitigating that problem. I do have to periodically top off my mineral oil mainly with my front lever, especially from frequent climbs and descents.

[mashiro2004]

My ER7 also had the barb with the O-ring. It was the first time I had seen an O-ring in a non-Tektro barb.

Just rewatched a trace velo video on the erx 3.0. He has a bike with the erx 2.0, and swaps out the shifters and derailleurs. He leaves the old barb, and olive which I probably wouldn't do, in the hose and puts it straight into the new shifter. Maybe it doesn't matter at all!

I knew that once the olive is closed it becomes deformed and must be changed once the tube is unscrewed

[Lordfauntleroy]

Oh. It's a wonder they don't have them available for sale if a number of their groupsets use them?

[Ziggoh90]

Does anyone know if it is possible to swap my eR9 rear derailleur (version 1) for a new eGR RD? Read that it was possible a year ago but dont know if this is still possible with the latest version eGR. Thank you 

[odoyodo]

i'm just about to pull the trigger on the ERX V3 off 80designerstore at aliexpress.
was wondering has anyone found listings for individual parts? e.g derailleur, shifters & hoods? messaged the store and they're only able to sell as a whole set.

had seperately contacted pandapodium and was told they're willing to order for me as long as i purchased the set from their website. could go that route although the price is much cheaper in aliexpress

[mashiro2004]

You can ask to LTWOO Factory Store on Alix if sell v3 version, i see that sold spare parts but from photos is v1 o v2.

[amacal1]

i'm just about to pull the trigger on the ERX V3 off 80designerstore at aliexpress.
was wondering has anyone found listings for individual parts? e.g derailleur, shifters & hoods? messaged the store and they're only able to sell as a whole set.

Months ago I was able to get 80sdesigner store to sell me individual parts for my old v1 eGR. They were speaking to me until recently about getting replacement arms for my eGR until they suddenly said they can't sell them. I've heard others report the same. It seems 80sDesignerStore is no longer worth talking to about such things, unfortunately.

[odoyodo]

nice! okay although i might just get the groupset from pandapodium, i'd like a spare derailleur and shifter ready in the event of crashes.

and follow up on my post. found this listing under 'SAVA STORE'. although it does not have any past buyers or reviews for this listing. the store page shows not much people buying from here too.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009213691851.html

[mashiro2004]

I was initially using Senicx 3 bolt 2x chainrings, which require no adjustment compared to a Shimano chainring/crankset. When I installed my Magene PM, I had to get 4 bolt asymmetric chainrings. I tried aftermarket chainrings and they sucked. I swapped to Shimano chainrings and shifting is much better with LTwoo.

Hi Jonathan,
I also have a Senicx  PR3 3-bolt crankset  with 46-30 and an 11-28 cassette on my bike. The front derailleur isn't exactly shifting perfectly, especially now that I've gone from 11 to 12 speeds. It's not perfect at going from 30 to 46 "under stress", but the opposite works well
To be honest, it wasn't perfect also with the mechanical Shimano R7000 derailleur I had before, either, so I think it's a crankset or chainring issue.
Have you had the same problem?
Are there any chainrings I could use that work better?
Or do I have a Shimano R5800 crankset (with worn chainrings) Do you know of any aftermarket chainrings for this that work well?

Many thanks

[mashiro2004]

Maybe I understood, from the Senicx website I saw that the 50-34 chainrings have a 43.5 chain line, while the 46-30 chainrings have a 47 chain line.

I didn't find the chain line for the 48 32.


The reason I got the 46-30 is because it worked great on gravel (I have a Sensah Empire groupset, with a Sensah CRX 11 Pro MTB rear derailleur), and since I never use the 11th and 12th cogs with the 50-34, I use the entire cassette with the 46. I have two sets of wheels, the mountain wheel is 11-28 and I have another with 11-25.
And I really like those cassettes because there aren't too many jumps between one cog and the next.

[jonathanf2]

Hi Jonathan,
I also have a Senicx  PR3 3-bolt crankset  with 46-30 and an 11-28 cassette on my bike. The front derailleur isn't exactly shifting perfectly, especially now that I've gone from 11 to 12 speeds. It's not perfect at going from 30 to 46 "under stress", but the opposite works well
To be honest, it wasn't perfect also with the mechanical Shimano R7000 derailleur I had before, either, so I think it's a crankset or chainring issue.
Have you had the same problem?
Are there any chainrings I could use that work better?
Or do I have a Shimano R5800 crankset (with worn chainrings) Do you know of any aftermarket chainrings for this that work well?

Many thanks

The Senicx chainrings shifts decently for a cheap aftermarket setup. You're just going to have to fine tune the FD until you nail the shifting. Maybe a new set of 105 R7000/7100 chainrings would work well.

[mashiro2004]

The Senicx chainrings shifts decently for a cheap aftermarket setup. You're just going to have to fine tune the FD until you nail the shifting. Maybe a new set of 105 R7000/7100 chainrings would work well.

Hi and thanks for the reply.... I think, as I said above, the problem is the chainline of the 46/30 chainrings, which are 47mm like the GRX.
On the derailleur, I can only adjust the high and low limits. If I leave 1mm on both sides, it goes up very well on the stand, and on the road it goes up well, but sometimes it seems to struggle to engage under stress.
I could probably fix this by moving the high limit outward, but in that case I'd have some rubbing with the sprockets from the middle and up.
I don't know if putting a spacer between the derailleur bracket, since it's bolted to the frame, would improve the situation or it wouldn't change anything.
Otherwise, I think it's best to go back to the 50/34 configuration.

[mashiro2004]

Sorry for the silly question, but I don't understand one thing. While I understand the fine tuning of the rear derailleur, I don't understand the fine tuning of the front derailleur. By reading the guide and watching YouTube videos, I adjusted the upper and lower limit switches, but what's the purpose of fine tuning the front derailleur from the app, or at least how do I use it?
I have the low limit set to 18 and the high limit set to 84.
If I try to fine-tune the large cog and small chainring, or the small chainring and large cog, it tells me to adjust the limit switches.
If I adjust it by moving to the intermediate rear cogs, it changes the values, but it also changes the limit switch. For example, with an 11-28 cassette, if I move to 25, it fine-tunes the position, and if I move it back by 2 settings, it also moves the limit switch by 2 settings, so in my case, it's either 16 or 82.
The same thing I don't understand is how to do it or what the purpose of calibrating the front derailleur is. If I press the button, it tells me to put the chain on the small chainring and then move the front derailleur to position 0, and then...? What should I do?

Thanks everyone, but I couldn't find any help even in the manual.

[Dark17]

For the current users, is it worth swapping erx v3 to Shimano 105? Or better stick to Shimano?

[jonathanf2]

Sorry for the silly question, but I don't understand one thing. While I understand the fine tuning of the rear derailleur, I don't understand the fine tuning of the front derailleur. By reading the guide and watching YouTube videos, I adjusted the upper and lower limit switches, but what's the purpose of fine tuning the front derailleur from the app, or at least how do I use it?
I have the low limit set to 18 and the high limit set to 84.
If I try to fine-tune the large cog and small chainring, or the small chainring and large cog, it tells me to adjust the limit switches.
If I adjust it by moving to the intermediate rear cogs, it changes the values, but it also changes the limit switch. For example, with an 11-28 cassette, if I move to 25, it fine-tunes the position, and if I move it back by 2 settings, it also moves the limit switch by 2 settings, so in my case, it's either 16 or 82.
The same thing I don't understand is how to do it or what the purpose of calibrating the front derailleur is. If I press the button, it tells me to put the chain on the small chainring and then move the front derailleur to position 0, and then...? What should I do?

Thanks everyone, but I couldn't find any help even in the manual.

There's so many variable to FD tuning. I adjust my ER9 cage in a certain way. Ignore all the YT'ers, they don't even know what they're doing!

First I'd make sure your FD cage is as close as possible to the chainring teeth. At the least, a 2mm gap (FD cage to teeth) is as wide as you should go. Second I would tune the FD first for the small chainring and small cog. Get that chain (while on the small cassette cog) as close to the to the cage as possible to insure you don't have rubbing in the big cassette cog. Once that's taken care of, shift to the big ring and adjust the big chainring/small cog in the same way. Get the cage as close as possible to the chain.

1-2 number differences can be huge with the fine tuning. On my out-of-spec 52-36/10-33t setup, I notice 82 vs 84 makes all the difference with good or bad FD shifting under load. In fact since I use gear protection, I don't mind chain rubbing in my small/small because I don't use my 2 smallest cogs on the small chainring (or my big/big). My setup is optimized to work well within the usuable gear range, completely ignoring the cross-chaining gears.

Anyways good luck!