Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[Fleckinger]

3000 km update.
I have no issues with frame stiffness, a flexy handlebar with 30mm Grand Prix 5000 S TR feels very good, especially on a bumps. I've hit some potholes and poorly constructed storm drains (well below the asphalt level) at high speed without any damage to the rims, handlebar, or frame, only get pain in my palms and wrists.
The headset is also holding up well, with no play or marks on the steerer tube. The seatpost, tightened to 5 Nm, hasn't slipped at all.

As for the ZTTO hybrid brakes, well, they work. They're slightly better than my old rim brakes with SwissStop FlashPro Yellow King and Elite ENT wheels. However i can't recommend them. The force that needs to be applied to the brake lever to stop almost the same as on the rim brakes, and pistons doesn't work evenly. One piston barely moves, and there's some flex in the lever arm that pushes the hydraulic cylinder. In my opinion, mechanical calipers like Avid BB5 or BB7 would be a better choice.
The brakes also squeal at low speeds. I suspect this is due to the cheap pads (only $4 for two pairs). I've tried cleaning the rotors and pads, but the squealing persists. As a result, I've ordered Ashima ceramic pads, hoping they'll solve the problem.

I swapped the crankset to a Shimano 105 because the ZTTO BB for a 30mm spindle started clicking after 1,000 km. Since I already had a Shimano BB and cranks, I decided to save money by not buying a new BB for the 30mm spindle. To shave off some weight, I replaced the 105 chainrings and bolts with Ultegra ones. This brought the total crankset weight down from 750g to 698g. Interestingly, the 105 and Ultegra cranks without chainrings weigh the same.

Finally, I experienced some clicking noises from the rear axle. This happened when I switched the bike back and forth between a trainer and the rear wheel without properly cleaning the dropouts. Thankfully, a thorough cleaning solved the issue. I'm unsure if this is normal or not, as I never encountered it with quick-release skewers.

[repoman]

Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.

[Fleckinger]

Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.

No, I don't think internal routing significantly affects braking performance. As long as the pads haven't touched the disc, there's minimal resistance in the system. I use Jagwire KEB-SL brake housings. While they're definitely a pain to route due to their stiffness, they perform well overall.
That being said, these hydraulic disc brakes with internal routing feel similar to rim brakes, but with much more bite. With my old rim brakes on carbon rims, it was difficult to stop effectively on steep downhills (-15% grade). I could feel the pads smearing on the rim, and applying more pressure on the lever wouldn't increase braking power beyond a certain point. This isn't an issue with the disc brakes.
I suspect the ZTTO caliper's lever arm isn't very stiff. I can see some movement in the arm when I squeeze the brake lever after the pads make full contact with the rotor.
Shifting also works flawlessly. In fact, I'd say the front derailleur performs even better than on my previous bike with the same groupset but semi-internal routing. This improvement is likely due to the full-length housing.

[TidyDinosaur]

Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.

My advise: just get a second had R8000 disc groupset and forget about mechanical disc brakes. They are not worth the hassle...

[flowsniper]

I’ve been thinking about ordering this frame for a bit, and have the decided to go and do so. However, next to ordering the frame on AliExpress, Hygge also has their own website. I was wondering if someone has any experience with ordering directly from Hygge?

[Ronronson]

AliExpress has a sale from tomorrow. Stuff will drop in price including the model s frameset and you should get some discounts codes on the launch page...ie £65 off a £400 spend ( might be local sensitive)

[Thomas BT]

I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"

I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.

Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017)  with this frame ?

PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.

[Fleckinger]

I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"

I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.

Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017)  with this frame ?

PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.

Headtube on my bike is solid. Here some photo of downtube, hope it helps.

[repoman]

I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"

I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.

Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017)  with this frame ?

PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.

You can't know much about aerodynamic efficiency by just looking at something. You need to test the stuff. Look at the nose of an F1 car, it's a very boxy shape.

[Thomas BT]

You can't know much about aerodynamic efficiency by just looking at something. You need to test the stuff. Look at the nose of an F1 car, it's a very boxy shape.

Well there are still general rules that a profiled shape will be more effecient than a straigh surface. F1 can't be compared since they are made to create downforce

[Thomas BT]

Headtube on my bike is solid. Here some photo of downtube, hope it helps.

Yes great help, thank you very much. your bike looks stunning

[RoadieMKD]

It's been a while since I received the frame but was only able to build the bike 3 weeks ago since I was waiting for the Ultegra DI2 upgrade kit to become available as I did not want to buy a complete groupset and end up with a BB and crankset that I will not use (crank length 172.5- I use 170 and PF BB). Wheelset is Elitewheels 65mm.

The build was super easy as am experienced building and servicing bikes and every part fits easily and how it's supposed to be.

To address the main issues discussed in this forum, seat post slipping and headset play, I have to say that I did not experience any seatpost slipping, which is mainly due to upgraded seatpost clamp with horizontal striations that lock the grippy part of the seatpost very well, and the mandatory use of carbon paste. As for the headset play, I did some mods to the C-ring. These consist of applying aluminium tape on top of the C-ring to increase the thickness by 0.3 mm (the same can be done with microspacer but I did not have any, so tape it is) and also 3 layers on the inside where the C-ring interfaces the steerer tube. I think that the C-ring needs to be 8,2mm total thickness (stock is 7,9) to avoid headset cover rubbing on the frame. If I did not add the tape, it would have rubbed after torquing down the top cap to 2.5-3 Nm. Another thig is to use carbon assembly paste on stem/steerer interface. After the initial ride the play returned but I did not torque enough initially (only finger tight to take up the slack, which is not enough obviously). Another thing that I done is also applied thread locker to the nut part of the stem bolts since there was none there and the bolts were rattling themselves loose (torqued to 6Nm only to become finger tight) after only one ride. After the mods of the C ring and top cap tightening and thread locker to the stem nuts there is no more play after 500 km with deliberate riding over cracked roads.

The supplied garmin mount acts as a leaf spring vibrating the hell out of everything attached to it. So far it has costed me a GPS unit (IGP sport, perfectly fine) which vibrated to disintegration, and yesterday my light had shorted out due to the vibrations. Use aluminium mount which may be sturdier than this thing.

The ride feel, as mentioned by other riders is subjective, but compared to my Cube Agree GTC Pro is waaaayyyy better and the bike is stiffer, a lot more responsive, rails corners, fits me a lot better and added 2-3 kmh to my average speeds instantly. Cruising at 45 km/h on the flats seems effortless or at least a lot easier to maintain. Thanks to @TidyDinosaur for advising me on sizing - this thing fits me like a glove (175.5cm 82 cm inseam and went with size S) with full stack of spacers to begin with but as I become more familiar with the bike I will remove 1cm of stack.

Total cost of this project 2500 eur. Can't beat that with what you get for this price compared to western brands.

P.S. for some reason I am unable to post with attached picture. I was only able to add this post as a quick reply. Any ideas of what might be the issue?

[Stephiso]

I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html

I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.

I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.

Well i have received this compression ring. However i'm having trouble making the holes bigger to pass the hydraulic cables. Also I noticed you made the headset cover a bit shorter with just a knife. However, the the headset cover i received is aluminum so I think it'll be much more difficult :/

I will probably try with the aluminum tape method now

[RoadieMKD]

You can use saw drill bit, it will make easy work of the aluminium. As for the headset cover cutting, you would still need to use microspacers as the SL7 ring is thinner/sits lower than the one that is supplied with the frame and do NOT modify the headset cover. Get 0.3mm microspacers as they are dirt cheap on Alix and use the stock C ring.
Aluminium tape is not a permanent solution but it works for me so far.

[RoadieMKD]

The beautiful backdrop is Lake Ohrid, Macedonia