Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[BigMold]

I don't know about max torque but I use 7 nm on both screws and it's never slipped so far

[DavidG]

The first of the three ordered Hygge Model S has arrived – and I’m absolutely thrilled with it!
It looks fantastic and I really like it a lot.
Shipping to Germany took about 3 weeks from the time of order, and it was packaged very well.
I’m really looking forward to my first tour.
A big thank you as well to this forum, where I was able to gather all the information I needed.

Is that a Matt or Gloss UD raw carbon finish? Looks lovely!

[twin86]

My Hygge Frame has been cracked near seat post. The seller wanted to put the blame on me. He asked me how torque I tightened the seat post. They finally gave me a free frame but $120 shipping.

[cyruscycles]

My Hygge Frame has been cracked near seat post. The seller wanted to put the blame on me. He asked me how torque I tightened the seat post. They finally gave me a free frame but $120 shipping.

Pretty good after care considering that it's hard to verify it wasn't user error, and how well reinforced the frame and seatpost are. Definitely not a weight weenie matchstick frame. Could you post a picture of the failure? I'd like to know what to look out for

[Edlix]

Are the following tightening torques okay?

Headset preload bolt (top cap) 2–3 Nm
Expander plug (compression plug) 7–8 Nm
Stem steerer clamp bolts (side bolts) 5–5.5 Nm
Stem faceplate bolts (handlebar clamp) ~4 Nm
Seatpost clamp ~6 Nm
Brake levers & shifters (on carbon handlebar) 5–6 Nm
Lock-on grip collar bolts 1–2 Nm
Rear brake caliper (on carbon frame) 6 Nm

Starting my build soon, so your collection of tightening torques comes in very handy. How did it go, did you make any adjustments to them?

[somethiNG]

I don't know about max torque but I use 7 nm on both screws and it's never slipped so far

nice painting
I used carbon paste and 6nm, and it works for me

Thanks guys!

So, I finished building the bike some time ago. As for the build itself, I had absolutely no issues - everything went smoothly and quickly. I’ve only ridden about 300 km so far since the cold days are coming and the outdoor season is ending. Up to now, no problems - the bike is super light (7.5 kg) and you can really feel the speed. I had no issues with headset play or a slipping seatpost (85kg rider or 187lbs, for the McDon… I mean, Americans ). Most likely, the new c-ring and the seatpost clamp solved the problem for good. The new handlebar looks surprisingly good, and the mount for the bike computer is super stiff (compared to the mount from the Chinese integrated KOCEVLO handlebar). As for the Di2 battery, I hid it inside the seatpost with a 3D-printed mount. Below, I’ll list the torque values I used for the build - maybe someone will find it useful.

• FORK COMPRESSION PLUG: I always use 6Nm
• HEADSET PRELOAD BOLT / TOP CAP: Printed max 6Nm, but with the improved c-ring you need waaaay less
• STEM STEERER CLAMP: Printed max 5Nm, I use 4.8Nm
• SHIFTER / BRAKE LEVERS TO HANDLEBAR: I always use around 4Nm
• FRONT DERAILLEUR HANGER: 2–3Nm(info from Hygge), I use 2.5Nm
• REAR THRU-AXLE THREADED INSERT: 2–3Nm(info from Hygge), I use 2.5Nm
• THRU-AXLE F/R: Printed max 13Nm, I use 10Nm
• BIKE COMPUTER MOUNT: Printed max 3Nm, I use 2.5Nm
• SEATPOST CLAMP: I use 4.8Nm with carbon paste
• BRAKE CALIPERS F/R: I use 6Nm
• ALUMINUM SADDLE RAILS: 6–8Nm, I use 7Nm
• DI2 BATTERY HOLDER: I use 1Nm

[wolfykey]

I see you used some wrap foil? Is it ready for hygge or do you cut everything by yourself?

because I had a problem with the chain and rear dropout, so I stuck a thick film from Aliexpress there.

And also once my big 105 Shimano star caught a stone, broke and the chain fell on the frame, and tore a little in the area of ​​the bottom bracket, so I stuck random pieces of film there too

[Lotnik]

Thanks guys!

So, I finished building the bike some time ago. As for the build itself, I had absolutely no issues - everything went smoothly and quickly. I’ve only ridden about 300 km so far since the cold days are coming and the outdoor season is ending. Up to now, no problems - the bike is super light (7.5 kg) and you can really feel the speed. I had no issues with headset play or a slipping seatpost (85kg rider or 187lbs, for the McDon… I mean, Americans ). Most likely, the new c-ring and the seatpost clamp solved the problem for good. The new handlebar looks surprisingly good, and the mount for the bike computer is super stiff (compared to the mount from the Chinese integrated KOCEVLO handlebar). As for the Di2 battery, I hid it inside the seatpost with a 3D-printed mount. Below, I’ll list the torque values I used for the build - maybe someone will find it useful.

Tell me more about this 3D printed mount.

• FORK COMPRESSION PLUG: I always use 6Nm
• HEADSET PRELOAD BOLT / TOP CAP: Printed max 6Nm, but with the improved c-ring you need waaaay less
• STEM STEERER CLAMP: Printed max 5Nm, I use 4.8Nm
• SHIFTER / BRAKE LEVERS TO HANDLEBAR: I always use around 4Nm
• FRONT DERAILLEUR HANGER: 2–3Nm(info from Hygge), I use 2.5Nm
• REAR THRU-AXLE THREADED INSERT: 2–3Nm(info from Hygge), I use 2.5Nm
• THRU-AXLE F/R: Printed max 13Nm, I use 10Nm
• BIKE COMPUTER MOUNT: Printed max 3Nm, I use 2.5Nm
• SEATPOST CLAMP: I use 4.8Nm with carbon paste
• BRAKE CALIPERS F/R: I use 6Nm
• ALUMINUM SADDLE RAILS: 6–8Nm, I use 7Nm
• DI2 BATTERY HOLDER: I use 1Nm

[somethiNG]

I see you used some wrap foil? Is it ready for hygge or do you cut everything by yourself?

because I had a problem with the chain and rear dropout, so I stuck a thick film from Aliexpress there.

And also once my big 105 Shimano star caught a stone, broke and the chain fell on the frame, and tore a little in the area of ​​the bottom bracket, so I stuck random pieces of film there too

I’ve always fully wrapped every frame. I cut the film by hand. I use Oracal ORAGUARD 270 (30x200cm, costs about €10, and after wrapping the whole frame including the fork there’s still some left). I apply it wet and cut it with a very sharp knife meant for PPF film. After a few tries, it becomes ridiculously easy. As for protecting the bottom bracket area from chain drops, I use a thick, transparent 2 mm tape.

Tell me more about this 3D printed mount.

The simplest three piece 3D printed mount, plus an old m6 brake bolt and some random nut.

[Lotnik]

I’ve always fully wrapped every frame. I cut the film by hand. I use Oracal ORAGUARD 270 (30x200cm, costs about €10, and after wrapping the whole frame including the fork there’s still some left). I apply it wet and cut it with a very sharp knife meant for PPF film. After a few tries, it becomes ridiculously easy. As for protecting the bottom bracket area from chain drops, I use a thick, transparent 2 mm tape.
The simplest three piece 3D printed mount, plus an old m6 brake bolt and some random nut.

Where to get this print model?

[somethiNG]

Where to get this print model?

Here you go!

[crazyravr]

Now then. I have this frame for my wife in XS and it just came in. Its hard to find bikes that small (actual tube sizing) and this one will fit proper. Pics out of the box attached.
I will build it up with 105Di2 with 160mm cranks and 360mm bar. The wheelset is coming from Tagoola and will be here this week.

[Lotnik]

Can you post whole frame photo? I'm interested how this frame looks like in XS.

[crazyravr]

The wheels came in on the weekend so I will throw it all together for show and fit later on today and post pics.
BTW really impressed with Tagoola shipping too, 2 weeks from order to my door for Aeroraptors.

[cyruscycles]

The new S-AURA model launched a couple days ago. $1500 - $1600 USD depending on the paint job. The paint is beautiful, but a bit steeper than I expected. Hoping for some BoB and solid color scheme paint jobs to bring the price point down quite a bit

https://www.hyggecycle.com/products/model-s-aura-2026-uci-approved-frameset-hand-painted-landscape