Grease / Thread lock / Anti-seize

[BeR]

I have tried to identify all the components that require the application of a product before being installed on a carbon road bike.

Please feel free to correct me or add other components that I may have forgotten :

Headset bearing : Grease
Stem on the fork : Carbon paste
Handlebar on the stem : Carbon paste
Stem bolt: Blue thread lock
Front and rear caliper bolt : Blue thread lock
Front derailleur mounting bolt : Blue thread lock
Rear derailleur mounting bolt : Anti-seize (not sure)
Seatpost : Carbon paste
Threaded BB (like BSA 68 mm) : Anti-seize
Pedals : Anti-seize (not sure)
Thread of the thru axle : Anti-seize (not sure)
Middle of the thru axle : Grease
Freewheel body : Grease
Crankset : Grease

[electrolux]

For the purposes of a bike I would imagine grease would happily replace anti seize + carbon paste for seatpost.

[Wet Noodle]

For the purposes of a bike I would imagine grease would happily replace ... carbon paste for seatpost.

Not for cf seatposts. The grease might be happy, but neither your cf seatpost nor you. For one thing, some greases will do strange things to the clearcoat and/or epoxy, giving it a gummy gooey surface and whatnot. But more importantly, grease will make already slippy cf seatposts slip even more, requiring more torque, making it easier to crack them. Carbon paste has its uses and the crunchy bits in it are there for a reason.

[jonathanf2]

I wouldn't go too crazy with blue thread lock. Plus regular grease can be used on most areas. I only use CF paste on the seat post, saddle clamp and the fork expander plug. I think proper torque settings is the more important aspect when building a carbon bike.

[BeR]

I wouldn't go too crazy with blue thread lock. Plus regular grease can be used on most areas. I only use CF paste on the seat post, saddle clamp and the fork expander plug. I think proper torque settings is the more important aspect when building a carbon bike.

What will you apply to the screws instead of blue thread ?

[jefflinde]

What will you apply to the screws instead of blue thread ?

I would recommend the purple thread locker which has more of a anti-vibration role than a thread locker.  also anti seize goes anywhere you want to remove something later and then proper torque.  there is no need for thread lock on anything if you torque them to spec.  this is assuming they are new parts and are with in spec for their application. 

Carbon past on anything that is carbon to carbon or carbon to metal.  (seat post, bars, stem, expander plug) 

[Tijoe]

I learned something from a rider I met on a bike camping trip a month ago.   This guy put a clear duct tape strip over all of his accessory and accessible bolt heads.  He said that this really helps if a fastener starts to come loose, the tape will hold the fastener in place.   On this particular bike trip, I had a variety of screws come loose along the way.  Several had the blue OEM thread locking compound on them. 

The other thing is to purchase an accurate reading torque wrench that is sized to the range of fasteners used on a bicycle.   (Often when we use Allen or Torx wrenches, we don't tighten the fastener tight enough out of fear of braking off the head.)

[BeR]

I would recommend the purple thread locker which has more of a anti-vibration role than a thread locker.  also anti seize goes anywhere you want to remove something later and then proper torque.  there is no need for thread lock on anything if you torque them to spec.  this is assuming they are new parts and are with in spec for their application. 

Carbon past on anything that is carbon to carbon or carbon to metal.  (seat post, bars, stem, expander plug)

Anti-seize is better than grease for bolts ?

[electrolux]

Not for cf seatposts. The grease might be happy, but neither your cf seatpost nor you. For one thing, some greases will do strange things to the clearcoat and/or epoxy, giving it a gummy gooey surface and whatnot. But more importantly, grease will make already slippy cf seatposts slip even more, requiring more torque, making it easier to crack them. Carbon paste has its uses and the crunchy bits in it are there for a reason.

The grammar in my reply was horrible, I meant you could use grease for everything except seat post, for which you need carbon paste. 

[Ludo]

What are you guys using for grease, carbon paste?

[coffeebreak]

Shimano DA grease, Lucas green automotive grease, and Finish Line carbon paste.

[Ryan_M]

Anti-seize is better than grease for bolts ?

Technically probably? but unnecessary unless you have a particular issue. It can be a pain to clean up and seems to get everywhere. I use white lithium because it doesn't make a mess and easy to wipe up (and I happened to have it in the drawer).

[ujmo_]

I wanted to double check guys - would you recommend anti-seize for a thru axle thread and grease for middle of a thru axle?

[BeR]

I wanted to double check guys - would you recommend anti-seize for a thru axle thread and grease for middle of a thru axle?

Yes, I did that.

[Serge_K]

On a lot of these interfaces, i put simply nothing.
I do put loctite on bottle cage bolts, then tend to rattle with vibrations. I had to put loctite on the bolts on my non drive side crank arms, because Racework carbon crankets with a crap design.
I would also put loctite on chainring bolts, because creaks develop there.
i would also put Moly silicone thing (as per my recent post somewhere on the forum) on PF BBs, as recommended, apparently, by cannondale, who invented creaking BBs.
Loctite on saddle bolts would also make sense if you're happy with your fit, because they tend to creak too from getting loose.
I've also use a combo of grease & carbon paste on the seat clamp of certain bikes (grease on the thread, and carbon paste on the bit that's pushing against the seat post. In fact it's important to put grease on that thread because sweat tends to get nasty in that area.
Very important: loctite on garmin mount bolts, otherwise they can fall off very fast.