TanTan TT-X38 Build

[ejump0]

can someone share me the dimensions for the x38 thru axles front n rear.
getting a lighter weight one from aliEx.

/im taking the bait to the sales temptation, about to order one in size 49, downsize from my tt912 s52
im getting 110mm stem to make up the reach

[c.etzo]

can someone share me the dimensions for the x38 thru axles front n rear.
getting a lighter weight one from aliEx.

/im taking the bait to the sales temptation, about to order one in size 49, downsize from my tt912 s52
im getting 110mm stem to make up the reach

Here It is

[ejump0]

Here It is

thanks.
just what i needed

[jeffrey]

here with the peter's waved rims 34 external 25 internal hookless and GP5000TLR 32mm
tested for a ride of 70 km and seems very good

Is that from TanTan or Ceccotti? What's the colour of the frame?

Looking lovely!

[c.etzo]

Is that from TanTan or Ceccotti? What's the colour of the frame?

Looking lovely!

Is from sequel bike store on AliExpress. The color Is a vinyl Paint removable

[ejump0]

my frame just arrived 
size52 UD gloss..
its actually beautiful 
n compared to my tt912, this frame is friggin light

frame (w/o fd hanger) : 1.05kg
fork (w axle) : 430g
seatpost : 225g

mine will be built with 2piece stem + dropbar.
groupo will be franken-sram axs
the caliper mount looks faced, n bolt holes too (no biggie, i can use sharpie)

[ejump0]

i havent start my build yet, but just sharing a side comparison of tt-x38 besides my tt912

[ejump0]

so last night i tried to fit my mosso st08 110mm stem.
found out the c-ring cable pass thru of this kit is so thick, uts making the top cover sit so high with 3.6mm gap.

the top bearing-clip kit provided by tantan is so much thinner.
the difference between both is that the mosso bearing id is larger, thus the cables have more slack going thru it. 
while i can use tantan bearing+clip with mosso top cap (gap down to 1.8mm), but i think the mosso one is better n causing less rub of cables against that ring.

im thinking finding some kind of rubber washer or o-ring thats like 5mm wall height, n put into the slot under the mosso cap.

how do you guys using non tantan provided handlebar do it?

*edit: the provided tantan top bearing cover dustcap + c-ring/bearing combo will sit flush just fine. so if you are going to use it, no gap issue

[ejump0]

sup guys. 
anyone here with  ttx38 n dcfr26 using stems at -5 to -10° using non provided handlebar, do you mind resharing pics here? 

im in dilemma, as my mosso 110mm 147g stem is -6° it looks out of place to the toptube line. will it look ok on full setup with brifters etc?

deda superbox is just -8°, so thats not much a difference.
next is deda vinci -17°, heavy af.
theres no other llght stem alternative im aware of under us100 

[Sebastian]

As much as I liked my TT-X38 for flat and fast riding on smooth stuff, I decided to retire it. It's really too much of a one trick pony for me. It beats me up on rough roads because of an overly stiff rear end and I really don't like the sensation when climbing on it out of the saddle compared to my other bikes.
So if anyone is interested in a size 58 in green. I'll probably post it in the sales section here. I also got two cockpits for it with -10 and -17 stem angle depending on what fit you're looking for.

[patliean1]

It beats me up on rough roads because of an overly stiff rear end and I really don't like the sensation when climbing on it out of the saddle compared to my other bikes.

I had basically identical feelings toward my x38 after I built it, and was hoping my experience was just me. I only made it to about 300 miles before putting the frame back in its box.

[Sebastian]

I had basically identical feelings toward my x38 after I built it, and was hoping my experience was just me. I only made it to about 300 miles before putting the frame back in its box.

Yeah, it's easy to get "used" to the way that a frame feels, if that makes any sense? I rode this bike so much and I rode my other bikes so little that it was a bit of an eye opener when I went back and forth again between them. My VB-R218 is just so much comfier despite having narrower tires while not really being significantly slower. I could live with the lack of compliance on this frame, I guess. But on less than perfect roads it just slows me down because of the way that the back end gets upset and it then obviously also messes with your pedal stroke as you struggle to maintain position on the bike. That makes it just not fun to ride on those kinds of surfaces. And I decided that really I'm looking for more versatility in a bike. Plus, most of the roads in my area are less than perfect. Even in horrific conditions sometimes. Add cobblestones and sometimes short gravel sections inbetween roads to the mix and I guess you see why I decided to let this frame go. I could keep it for crits only. But neither do I have enough space nor do I want to store a race only bike. I want to be able to train on my race bike day in and day out to be intimately familiar with it.

[Takiyaki]

Pat said something interesting on the Nero show about frames in the Tan Tan price range........... I have an R5 clone from them and I also find the rear end to be a bit skittish around corners. I thought it was something wrong with the tires but I think it might be the frame. Oddly my previous Chinese frame didn't have that issue. In any case, Im prob gonna go with a Western brand for the next build. Used frames are priced well and actually have resale value.

[Sebastian]

Pat said something interesting on the Nero show about frames in the Tan Tan price range........... I have an R5 clone from them and I also find the rear end to be a bit skittish around corners. I thought it was something wrong with the tires but I think it might be the frame. Oddly my previous Chinese frame didn't have that issue. In any case, Im prob gonna go with a Western brand for the next build. Used frames are priced well and actually have resale value.

You have a point with used frames. But by no means do I think that every 500€/$ frame behaves like this. I’ve now ridden a few of them and there are stark differences. After all, there’s only so much you can do with carbon type and layup. But geometry and tube shape are always going to be the #1 most important factors defining the behaviour of a frame under load. And therefore a chunky frame like the TT-X38 is always going to feel harsh. It’s no wonder that Scott decided they needed a cutout kind of suspension seatpost to make the thing rideable for mere mortals.
And on the other end my VB-R218/Chinarello has lateral flex in the seatpost and upper seattube. And so does the original according to reviews. Despite using fairy dust T1100 carbon. Obviously it’s a lot lighter so with more material they probably could have stiffened it up but decided that frame weight was more important, I guess. But the main culprit is the super narrow tube shape, no matter the material.
So I think that even with the super budget frames, you can draw conclusions from the design and there will be differences.

[ejump0]

sup guys. 
im having problem with my fork, where the opening is kinda wide than normal.
in relaxed state, 1 side of hubcap dont touch the other end.

when i torqued the thru axle, on hard brake, the front wheel moves to the rotor side . already sent vids to tantan.
the gap measurements measures 102mm iw.
i dont really have a lot truaxle spacers to try squeeze till tight enough but wheel bearing still rotate, but will try

also for bb47, its normal the crank spindle a lil short going out the other side as compared to bb86?

also for RD hanger, anyone recognize if it follows a certain model of a branded frame?