LTWOO eGR

[trcycling]

I highly recommend getting a separate battery charger and charging the batteries before installing it into the battery holder. Also clean the connectors periodically as well. I find my eGR port needs to be cleaned more often than my eR9 setup.

Interesting comment. Is there any difference between the ports on the eGR and eR9? AFAIK, the basic connector is the same. But perhaps positioning, or the surrounding or... 

I ask because I'm still trying to figure out why my first one became problematic to charge (despite brushing, alcohol etc.) and the warranty V2 unit (based on the longer cage and no other details) works fine so far and might be different

[Phaxe]

Just in case anyone needs to take apart the shifters on these because of stripped grub screws, I'll detail the process.

First, you'll need to remove the two hex bolts holding the lever on to the handlebars. With all of this, be super careful to not drop them and put them somewhere safe.

When you've removed the hex bolts (M4 & M2), you have two options - one, you 'push' up the fixed metal mechanism against the spring to expose the back of the grub screw. From there, if you're lucky, grab your 2mm Allen key and remove the bolt, and flip it so the non-stripped side faces outwards, and it's 'job done'. If however you're unlucky like I was, and strip both threads (these bolts must be made of playdoh), you'll need to drill it out. As my springs popped out, I did this without the spring mechanism in place.

It was pretty straightforward to drill out the grub screw and replace it with a 2mm grub screw from Amazon. Putting it back together is the tricky part.

This is the important bit as far as the springs and mechanism goes - thick spring gone on the outside, followed by the fixed metal lever. There's a plastic tube that runs through both of those, and a smaller plastic tube runs through the thinner spring. Put the thick spring in, followed by the fixed metal lever, then push the spring down and carefully slide in the plastic tube. Repeat then for the thin spring and smaller plastic tube. Then your lever should be reassembled.

Be careful, take your time.

I'm sorry I didn't take pictures of the process, but if anyone ever runs in to this issue where they strip the grub screw, get in touch and I'd be happy to help out. It's a pain in the arse if you stuff it up, but it's certainly fixable with a bit of patience and elbow grease. I'm glad I didn't buy a new shifter.

[Phaxe]

I do have to say, the grub screw adjustment for the lever and brake feel is actually quite a clever design, and works really well.

I know it's been said in previous posts, but it's vitally important that the grub screw is backed off on the eGR (counter-clockwise) so that all the oil can fill the reservoir, then once the bleed is complete, you can dial in the grub screw so it's perfect for how you want to set your brakes up.

I just gave my pads a clean and sandpaper, gave the rotor a clean and scuff up with some sandpaper, bedded them in, and they're feeling better than they ever have.

[amacal1]

I do have to say, the grub screw adjustment for the lever and brake feel is actually quite a clever design, and works really well.

I know it's been said in previous posts, but it's vitally important that the grub screw is backed off on the eGR (counter-clockwise) so that all the oil can fill the reservoir, then once the bleed is complete, you can dial in the grub screw so it's perfect for how you want to set your brakes up.

I just gave my pads a clean and sandpaper, gave the rotor a clean and scuff up with some sandpaper, bedded them in, and they're feeling better than they ever have.

I'm a novice when it comes to hydraulic brakes. I did a piss poor job setting up my brakes when I first installed the eGR and after botching my first brake bleed I decided to leave them alone for over a year. I tried again to bleed them this past weekend and didn't improve them much (though, at least the process was a lot smoother and easier my second go-round). I didn't touch the "air" port on the handle. Should I have opened that port while bleeding to let more oil in the reservoir or something?

[coffeebreak]

Back in March I ordered eGR groupset from a shop called 318bike store, a name I haven't seen mentioned here. Anyway, nearly a month later and 25 days of it sitting in customs it was finally delivered thru UPS today.
I didn't realize from photos the box would be so big. Connected the bits and things look okay on the first look. I paid $370 after coupons. Not the cheapest but it's going on an old Chiner bike that deserves some love after excellent service for 3 years.

I'm disappointed with the battery holder. It's extremely cheap and weak. Comparatively other components are solid.

Now I have a question. Has anyone reused hydraulic hoses? I don't want to go through the hassle of routing hoses all again. I'm thinking of removing the current shifters and calipers, keep the hoses in place, and install eGR shifter + calipers. The hoses are not old. I'm just lazy to go thru terrible internal routing process.

[Phaxe]

I'm a novice when it comes to hydraulic brakes. I did a piss poor job setting up my brakes when I first installed the eGR and after botching my first brake bleed I decided to leave them alone for over a year. I tried again to bleed them this past weekend and didn't improve them much (though, at least the process was a lot smoother and easier my second go-round). I didn't touch the "air" port on the handle. Should I have opened that port while bleeding to let more oil in the reservoir or something?

If you follow the video that Ltwoo posted on YouTube, that worked for me. Start by bleeding the brakes with the cup attached to the oil hole, then close that up, and still have 5ml of mineral oil in your syringe. Then close up the oil port, and open the air port and push in more oil from the syringe until no more air comes out. By that stage you shouldn’t have any more oil in the system. I found once I’d done that, it still felt a bit spongy, but when I dialed in the grub screw, the feel was firm and the pads locked to the rotors.

Also with disk brakes, it’s imperative you bed them in after this, otherwise they won’t work properly. Let me know how you go!

[Phaxe]

Back in March I ordered eGR groupset from a shop called 318bike store, a name I haven't seen mentioned here. Anyway, nearly a month later and 25 days of it sitting in customs it was finally delivered thru UPS today.
I didn't realize from photos the box would be so big. Connected the bits and things look okay on the first look. I paid $370 after coupons. Not the cheapest but it's going on an old Chiner bike that deserves some love after excellent service for 3 years.

I'm disappointed with the battery holder. It's extremely cheap and weak. Comparatively other components are solid.

Now I have a question. Has anyone reused hydraulic hoses? I don't want to go through the hassle of routing hoses all again. I'm thinking of removing the current shifters and calipers, keep the hoses in place, and install eGR shifter + calipers. The hoses are not old. I'm just lazy to go thru terrible internal routing process.

I don’t see why this wouldn’t work, so long as you have enough length in them for new olives.

[amacal1]

If you follow the video that Ltwoo posted on YouTube, that worked for me. Start by bleeding the brakes with the cup attached to the oil hole, then close that up, and still have 5ml of mineral oil in your syringe. Then close up the oil port, and open the air port and push in more oil from the syringe until no more air comes out. By that stage you shouldn’t have any more oil in the system. Let me know how you go!

Ah, I didn't watch the video again, I only used the manual this time. The process you described makes a lot of sense. I'll have to try this next time and I'm sure that's what I'm missing. However, it will be at least a few weeks before I try this again.

[jonathanf2]

Last week I boxed and flew with my gravel bike equipped with eGR groupset. I think the air pressure messed with my hydraulic brakes when I transported my bike. My hydraulic pressure significantly dropped when I reassembled my bike and I didn't bring any spare fluid to top it off. I highly recommend bringing a small container of hydraulic fluid or make sure your hydraulic fluid pressure is adequate before flying! Though this wasn't an issue when flying with my Shimano equipped gravel frame, so it could just be an LTwoo thing.

[coffeebreak]

Noticing a weird issue with rear brake caliper of eGR. I used the 160mm adapter. The rotor is 160mm Shimano ice tech. The brake pads come into contact with the fins of the rotor because the pads are too low. What am I doing wrong?

[coffeebreak]

Added 2.5mm spacers and raised the height. No rubbing on the fins anymore! The spacers came with the fake EE rim brake calipers and ultimately served their purpose here lol

[jonathanf2]

Added 2.5mm spacers and raised the height. No rubbing on the fins anymore! The spacers came with the fake EE rim brake calipers and ultimately served their purpose here lol

I'm guessing it's an issue primarily with the ice-tech rotors? On my eGR setup I don't have any rubbing with regular rotors. Also be very careful with your LTwoo adapter plates. I've stripped the threads on 2 front adapter plates, which required replacements (purchased from 80 Design Store). I only tighten the screws until they are firm, so no need to over torque. With this tariff war, even small parts like this will be a hassle to replace. 

[coffeebreak]

I've stripped the threads on 2 front adapter plates, which required replacements (purchased from 80 Design Store). I only tighten the screws until they are firm, so no need to over torque. With this tariff war, even small parts like this will be a hassle to replace. 

It is definitely soft. I shaved off some material from 140mm adapter very easily. And I am already worried a little about the cable. It got stuck while passing it through the chainstay and I had to pull it with what felt like a lot of force. Its still working but small proprietary parts like these are going to be a major hassle. Why did they have to go with this strange mount for the brake calipers is also baffling to me. A stripped adapter shouldn't send one looking onto Aliexpress but here we are :|

[trcycling]

RE my up-thread comments about getting a longer-cage warranty replacement


After dropping by the LTWOO booth at Sea Otter, I got in touch with someone at LTWOO. He was able to confirm that there has been a running update to a longer cage that they expect works to 52t. I can confirm that it works correctly with a 10-50t cassette and would expect a 52t to be fine but haven't tested. He said there were no other changes to geometry, firmware, etc. 

Since it is not on the website nor has a labeled version, I'm not sure how to ensure you would get this version though. When I got the warranty part, they checked that I could accept the longer cage since that was all they had in stock. But I can't speak to whether that is universal. If you have it in hand, the older version is approximately 82mm c-c on the bolts. The new one is ~90mm (Sorry, I only did it roughly while installing and looking at the pictures, I can't confirm more precisions than that)

However, it seems we might see a new eGR rear derailleur this summer with some of the features of the MTB series like the charge port going to USB-C

[coffeebreak]

RE my up-thread comments about getting a longer-cage warranty replacement


After dropping by the LTWOO booth at Sea Otter, I got in touch with someone at LTWOO.

Great news! Did they say if they will stock parts locally (in the USA) so that customers don't have to go through all the hassle of ordering from China now that de minimis is ending?