My TanTan TT912 build

[ejump0]

So back in Jan i place an order for TT912 via TanTan website contact thru whatsapp. After confirming the bike parts n confirm colour, paid it n wait for it to arrive.

My frame arrived last week.
Frame: TT912 with swapped cockpit. Instead of integrated kit, i went split stem n basebar. also swapped for carbon extensions
BB: Ztto bb386-24 normal bearing
Brake lever: Tektro TL720
Shifter: Microshift bs-a11
RD: 105 r7000 ss
Saddle: Chiner ism pl1.1
Brake caliper: Onirii BR-05


Wheelset n cranks will come from my current bike. i havent decide on crank lenght yet, but it will be in 1x:
wheelset: parcours chrono 77/86
cog: 105 11-28
crank: 105 r7000 50-34

Unfortunately the extension bar sent was wrong n few screws missing for stem cap. will be sent later (i may need to return current extensions). Paint job was good, but unfortunately theres a scratch on fork, probably during photoshoot (they made a vid on their insta/youtube).

As of right now im stuck with the basebar internal route hole on left side is obstructed  cable cant go thru

[ejump0]

More pics.
The FD hanger is removable. And on toptube(i forgot to snap pic), theres some kind of batt holder for di2. Its removable, so i removed it to drop weight

some scratch n chip only on fork. i did address to TanTan rep(a lil dissapointed after paying a lot for paintjob), but probably will cover with clear nail polish.
However pics n vid doesnt really justify the painjob. They even put glitter bits that shines under bright light.

the yellow circle is where housing gets stuck. im still poking with metal wire to grind whatever in there to enlarge the route 
/inner cable can go thru, but shifter/brake end big-bulb thing will get stuck

weights:
frame (with batt holder n fd hanger removed) +fork(steerer cut) + stem: 2.71kg
stem alone: 379g
frame only(batt holder n fd hanger still attached) : 1.6kg
*forgot to measure fork only

[ejump0]

Since today is monday, i communicated about my basebar issue.
The rep will sort out a replacement basebar for me.

More pics on the saddle post mechanism. n said batt holder that goes inside top tube from the opening in front of saddle post

The saddle cage holder is full angle adjustable, n usable in single or dual bottle cage mode

/oh well, my build is further delayed

[VinceFontaine]

Hi,
good job so far. Did you experience any other issues yet? Like bottom bracket not precisely cut/grinded out, etc? How much was the paint job?
Looks sick btw.

I was thinking about either getting the TT912 as well as the frame set, or choose the complete bike for 2500€ on ali and then replace/upgrade parts bit by bit

cheers!

[ejump0]

Hi,
good job so far. Did you experience any other issues yet? Like bottom bracket not precisely cut/grinded out, etc? How much was the paint job?
Looks sick btw.

I was thinking about either getting the TT912 as well as the frame set, or choose the complete bike for 2500€ on ali and then replace/upgrade parts bit by bit

cheers!

Hi there
Thanks. The TanTan IG vid already made the frame looks stunning.
this paintjob was charged usd280. i believe they have tiered paint job pricing (mono colour, twin color, full funky pattern etc). Originally i was going for full budget build n thinking to just stay original black. But 1 of my colleague talked me into making it unique n dont too cheap out on something that probably lasts years

So far i have not installed the bb yet as it will be last step. but the consensus with chiner frame(at least discused on bb thread here) is to go with threaded bb as this will help align straight. I hope i dont have loose cup issue.

Originally i wanted to go 1x 12 setup, but there is no mechanical 12sp bar-end shifter solution so i settled for 11sp. I dont know about other countries policy, but where im at items below ~usd300 are import-tax exempted. Thus buying parts saperately greatly saved me a lot, as im only taxed on frame (already had the wheels).

if you are considering full bike offering, maybe you could engage communication with them on option for certain part swaps possibility (you save the hassle of fitting issue of said part, china-china cheaper shipment etc)

[ejump0]

Tire fittings. will it clear larger than 28mm?
I think so.
Based on observation with my 28mm Gp5k on Chrono 77/86, it can clear 30mm, n perhaps even 32mm on wide rims

edit: add pic a mock setup, what the bike might looks like once its done (minus fitting, as i wont set up fit like that  )

[Aradell]

Really cool to see a TT-build on here! It looks great!

Was briefly looking into this aswell a couple of weeks ago. But like you found out, there really isn't a good option for 1x12 unless you go the Di2 of AXS route. Which gets expensive really quick!
Didn't think of Microshift as a solution though!

Good luck with the build!

[Serge_K]

That looks GANGSTA!
I suspect you're light and small, otherwise you wouldn't use a 50/34 on a TT bike, but FYI, you can get a REAR 140 to 180mm adaptor for cheap these days. Peak Torque sells expensive ones (I'm sure they're wonderful) but I found a cheap REAR one on bikeinn, and with mechanical brakes at the very least, bigger disks are better. I'm yet to find affordable front adaptors.
I've built 4 bikes with these brakes, and 5 bikes with hydraulic brakes.
I've used this very same BB.
I tried using these bottles but they flew off the bike, they lasted me 1 ride.
Best of luck with the mechanical shifting, will be curious to hear how it's working.
Kudos on the KEB-SL compressionless Jagwire brake housing, I've used that too, and you can absolutely feel the difference compared to cheaper housing.
It's a pity you're stuck in the middle of the build because of seller's mistakes though.
Keep us posted.

[ejump0]

Really cool to see a TT-build on here! It looks great!

Was briefly looking into this aswell a couple of weeks ago. But like you found out, there really isn't a good option for 1x12 unless you go the Di2 of AXS route. Which gets expensive really quick!
Didn't think of Microshift as a solution though!

Good luck with the build!

Thanks
Yup, theres not many more recent thread on TT/Tri bike build.
Hope my thread can be of some help for this specific frame.
While this frame is kind of old(Disc ver rehash 2020) the fat tubes profile still made it look menacing these days.
Where i live, a used Speedmax CF7 disc goes at silly price. So im better off build a bike from scratch n move over some parts from my aluminium TCR.
This is my 1st carbon bike, and 2nd bike ever 

Regarding 12sp mechanical shifting, Microshift does have 12sp mtb 'friction+index' bar-end shifter.
But i dont feel like want to venture on 1x mtb RD setup, as im not familiar with them and let alone fiddling with friction shifting(in event cant figure indexing properly) while on the aero extensions.
The Microshift BS-A11 is index shifter only for Shimano RD, so you still have clicks. And its magnitude cheaper than SRAM or Shimano shifter.
For 12sp mech, the cassete still limited choice. the new Ultegra 11-30 was relevant to my interest, as it has 16T sprocket, thus 11 to 17T are in 1teeth step.
For now i'll just settle with 11-28T 11sp that i already have.

Crank wise i havent decide yet. My TCR is with 170mm lenght + left Xcadey powermeter. Thats why i got myself BB386-24 so i can temporarily borrow the crank over and do test 'FEEL'.
Im thinking to try 165 on this Tri bike and get Stone or PassQuest 54T chainring

[ejump0]

That looks GANGSTA!
I suspect you're light and small, otherwise you wouldn't use a 50/34 on a TT bike, but FYI, you can get a REAR 140 to 180mm adaptor for cheap these days. Peak Torque sells expensive ones (I'm sure they're wonderful) but I found a cheap REAR one on bikeinn, and with mechanical brakes at the very least, bigger disks are better. I'm yet to find affordable front adaptors.
I've built 4 bikes with these brakes, and 5 bikes with hydraulic brakes.
I've used this very same BB.
I tried using these bottles but they flew off the bike, they lasted me 1 ride.
Best of luck with the mechanical shifting, will be curious to hear how it's working.
Kudos on the KEB-SL compressionless Jagwire brake housing, I've used that too, and you can absolutely feel the difference compared to cheaper housing.
It's a pity you're stuck in the middle of the build because of seller's mistakes though.
Keep us posted.

Thanks.
Im 178cm 66kg.
The 50/34 will be temporary, as im considering Stone/PastQuest 54T.
On compact crank on my TCR, i usually spend time in 13-17T on flats solo on clip-on Tri-bar (Singapore pretty much flat).
For now i think i'll stick to 140 rotors (theyre mt900), n explore better pads because its flat here.
But in the event i dont really have enough stopping power on this bike, can  be upgraded later.
Yup, theres a brake thread on this forum discussing the KEB-SL, so its best to do it right while its easy to route the cables.

For bottles, i have the XLAB Torpedo 200 bta. I probably use that as it has straw right to the face.
Alternatively, the reason why i went for this 2-piece stem+basebar instead of the original offered cockpit, is because on Falco old pics, this stem can fit ProfileDesign Aeria headtube hydration(i have option to go this route) 
/and i can install the basebar sweep-upwards ala-startrek 

yup, kinda sad the build is delayed.
but at least the manufacturer is willing to help me out.
/its my 1st self build bike, n i got hard-mode 

[ejump0]

sup all.
my replacement cockpit part arrived last weekend, so i managed to work bit by bit till today (due to work n training).

however after installing the brakes, found out i have rocking headset issue (front-back).
https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/s/N5MEGIYQbd
theres a thread here giving some tips, so i'll be trying them.
lets hope i dont have bb issue too

my seatpost may need some cutting. thats the lowest it can currently go

[ejump0]

i finally completed all the necessary stuff to get the bike ridable, except....
the seat post is too high 
unfortunately i dont have tools to cut the seat post.
i tried to play around with my other saddle that has lower rail height, but still no go. the saddle clamp mech also contributed to extra height. i need to cut like 5cm.

the headset rocking has been reduced, but still rocking a bit. i put some thick frame protection film insert as filler on front n back to top n bottom cup. then use some plumbers tape to get the bearing sit snug.

also i found out about top tube height. without the bento box my crotch is fine not touching with ample gap, but with bento box its touching. i forgot to take into acc bento box height 

i guess i need to go to shop to sort the saddle post n headset 

edit:
it seems theres some seam carbon layup preventing the post to further down. the post might able to further down if i file those off.
is the purpose of that seam as a stopper? its around seatstay

[mattgolt]

That frame looks great, love the colour! I've been looking for a tt frame too, but was a bit underwhelmed by the choices available. It seems that road frames go with the time, while barely any supplier updates the tt frames any more.

What kind of mounts/storage does this one have? Bento box on the top tube? Maybe even something for a 3d printed rear box?

[ejump0]

My housemate happens to have a dremel, so decided to cut the seatpost instead, n keep the seat-tube inner seam for protection. 
i still need to figure the headset issue. but did a test ride to adjust position, man it felt so different than on my tcr. im so far forward my leg almost straight down. hip angle seemed so much open even on 170 cranks.

if i were to get 165, i cant use my existing crank PM. hmm..
also far chainring im not sure to go 54T or settle for 52T Stone/PassQuest.. hmm

That frame looks great, love the colour! I've been looking for a tt frame too, but was a bit underwhelmed by the choices available. It seems that road frames go with the time, while barely any supplier updates the tt frames any more.

What kind of mounts/storage does this one have? Bento box on the top tube? Maybe even something for a 3d printed rear box?

yup, its kinda limited for chiner TT frame options as opposed to RB.
i shortlisted a winow frame, this, and BXT.
in the end i went for this as the design is used by Yeoleo T9, despite a 2019 design. still looks multitude better than speedmax cf7 or p-series base model.

storage wise, theres a small in-frame storage triangle in front of seatpost (the triangle between toptube n seattube).  theres also di2 batt holder inside the toprube, accessed from this triangle storage. 

the toptube has 2 boss holes for profile design bento box use or whatever you wanna mount. it can become 4 holes if you remove the screw holding the di2 batt cage.
in the triangle, theres only 2 boss mount bottle on downtube. 

originally this frame came with different integrated stem+basebar. but i opted to switch to older split stem+basebar as i want to flip the basebar upward.

as for the seatpost, original kit does not xome with that cage holder, so its an additional part,(i saw on falco website this existed).
i believe under another brand of same frame, theres another seatpost type where you can attach a cage holder ala speedmax style (see Sam Laidlow bike)

the custom paintjob is by TanTan, icecrack blue. actually it also have glitter effect. no chance yet for photoshoot

this is my 1st bike i build from scratch. didnt anticipate too much trouble n hickups, but its a learning process for meq

[Serge_K]

#asscrack blue.
A 5 dollar hacksaw from any diy store will cut a seatpost. Just throw the blade afterwards. Bigger teeth cut faster. For a seatpost you don't actually need to be precise. Dremel is next level imprecise though, I hope you wore a mask.
I don't understand the issues with the headset play but if it means you have to fill the bearings seats with random crap hoping the bearings sit properly, that's kind of textbook frame you should send back?
Front ring: if in doubt, go bigger. First of all, it will impress the ladies. Second. It's more efficient. Third. You can get a bigger cassette. 4th. You should aim to ride in the middle of the cassette when you're pushing, not the smallest cogs, so go big. I have an oval 56T on mine and I don't know why I ever had smaller. And I largely suck.