IP-256SL build [finished - photos]

[Cnasta]

It looks like the part of the hub is to small/thin. When I close/tighten the axle it comes too far inside the dropout. Hard to explain, but I hope this clearyfies it a bit. Don't think the frame is wrong, i might be the hub?

I used novatect 4-in-1 hubs

[edit]
No problem when I take the wheel out and spin it in the air (both ways are fine)
[/edit]

[edit2]
Looks like the axle is too short on the cassette-side. With axle I mean the part of the hub that sticks out from inside the body (in which you put the tru-axle)
[/edit2]

[carbonazza]

Aren't you missing a washer?

I do not have Novatec's hub.
But on Hope's rear hub, there is a small cylinder that you insert in the cassette at the axle, that makes some distance between the cassette and the frame.
Did you check if the cassette is fully pressed on the freehub. Or if the free-hub is not fully pressed inside the hub?

Take some pictures.
May be Novatec's owners will be able to spot an anomaly if any.

[bruto]

measure your rear hub and dropouts without the wheel first of all
like, using a spoke or something similar

the dropout inset might be too deep (the insets are supposed to be 3.5mm deep), or the right endcap might be too short

that'll allow you to find out which part (hub/frame) is at fault

[Cnasta]

Thnx for the help guys, probleem was in the hub. The inner axle was wrong (or the shaft, not sure what de right name is). De thru-axle itself was ok, but not the innerwork of the hub. The wheelbuilder fixed it, and the bike is rolling now Will try to post some photo's soon.

[Cnasta]

Hi, finally finished my bike. And finally did my first ride on it. For those from NL: Rondje Drunense Duinen.

Love the ride. Needed no time to adept! Off course, compared to my 26"fully, it's less comfortable. But faster on the straight for sure. Comfort overall didn't disappoint me, especially since it is still rigid (might try a SID in the future, blackblackblack, or DT Swiss)

Any questions, let me know! Thanks to MTB2223 for anwering mine

[Carbon_Dude]

Nice job Cnasta!

[MTNRCKT]

Nice build and pics mate! You made quite the leap from 26 full squish to full rigid 29er.. Do you plan on riding both, or do you think you'll tend to favor one moreso than the other?

[Cnasta]

Nice build and pics mate! You made quite the leap from 26 full squish to full rigid 29er.. Do you plan on riding both, or do you think you'll tend to favor one moreso than the other?

I do like to ride the Specialized Epic fully in rough terrain (Belgium Ardennes), but I don't like the costs that come with al the fancy things (rear damper, brain, pivotpoint-bearings). I'll keep the fully for the heavier rides, but think I'll be spending about 90% on this new rigid bike. Might try a RS SID or DT Swiss in the future, if I need more comfort

[Patrick C.]

Great looking bike!  I always think it's strange to paint one black, but the gloss/matte effect looks really nice.  If you need a little more comfort, it looks like you've got plenty of room for fatter tires


That area looks crazy- like the Sahara in the middle of the Netherlands.  I found the Dutch wikipedia page, but couldn't find anything in English about it.  How did the area form?  Is the sand hard packed and easy to ride on?

[Cnasta]

Great looking bike!  I always think it's strange to paint one black, but the gloss/matte effect looks really nice.  If you need a little more comfort, it looks like you've got plenty of room for fatter tires


That area looks crazy- like the Sahara in the middle of the Netherlands.  I found the Dutch wikipedia page, but couldn't find anything in English about it.  How did the area form?  Is the sand hard packed and easy to ride on?

I guess (not sure) it's formed during the ice-ages (like al interesting area's in NL). The MTB Trail in the "Drunense Duinen" twists around the big sandy area's (with some sandy  crossings). Most of the route is "normal" loose forest ground, with only a few vertical meters. But it's a beautifull area. On the photo you see a big "dune"-area in which you cannot really bike (well, with a fatbike you could).

The tires I have are 2.2 xking. Not really wide, but wide enough for 90% of what I do. Could go to racekings for really fast and dry conditions, or mountainkings for more grip. Think I won't changing to much, a midle-of-road tire suits me fine

[Cnasta]

Got some very muddy miles on my Chiner now. I notice that the headset is sounding like it has a lot of dirt in/between it. Guess the Neco Headset is shit anyway, what should I buy to replace it with? Any good recommendations?

[MTB2223]

I think the neco headset isn't worser or better than a fsa or ritchey headset. You need to do regular maintenance on the headset. It's important to prevent water in the headset by using enough grease. Just before the winter do some extra maintenance.
For now, you can clean the bearing in your headset, re-grease them and use them during the winter period. And replace them after the winter.

In the 1,5 year I'm riding with my Chiner and Neco headset, I replaced the bearing recently.

[Carbon_Dude]

My Neco headset has lasted over two years so far on my 057 hardtail and over a year so far on my 036 FS bike.  I would not say NECO headsets are terrible, many people have posted they go through FSA headsets pretty quickly as well.  I typically service them every 6 months or so.

If I were to replace the NECO, I would look at a Cane Creek replacement. 

[Cnasta]

Will give it look later this month, when I have time. But it's def sounding worse than my other headsets (26"fully, no service ever, still going strong after 3 years).

There is more that enough grease in there, but I will check it out

[MTB2223]

When you do a service on the bearings, you can take out the sealing ring. Spray WD40 on the bearing balls, to remove the old grease, and then with an air compressor blow out all the WD40 and re-grease the bearing and put back the sealings. Now there're as new.