Spcycle 2024 New M868 Downcountry Full Suspension Frame

[nallen]

Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob. What do you think of these front forks https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005121945934.html? Are they good for this frame?

The fork says a lot fo teh right things, however, there is one detail that makes it a pass:  It is a quick-release fork, 9x100mm, so it will not fit the modern boost hub size and you would be stuck trying to source a a quick release front wheel, and a thru axle rear wheel.  Kind of a deal killer.

I looked at a lot of the aliexpress forks, the low prices look nice, but nearly all of them have this issue.

I ended up buying the previous model Rockshox SID Select+ 120mm for $350 (Wheel and Sprocket Outlet) , and then upgrading the damper to the Race Day 2 ($150 ebay) giving me a 1520g fork for $500.  The weight ranges for a SID Ultimate is 1485g-1530g, and current check runs a litle over $1000. 

If youre looking for a lower trim level, look for close outs or on ebay.  If you're in the USA, just order the $350 Rockshox SID Select+ while they still have it available, you don't need to upgrade the damper, I just wanted the remote lock out.

Let me look through the Aliexpress for some options, I saw a Rockshox fork listed the other day.

Edit:  They do have some Rockshox available on Aliexpress, but they are all $375+ for a Judy or Reba. 

If you want to give Baloney a try this is the correct fork to roll the dice on:  https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810128429442.html?

"BOLANY BOOST Bike Air Fork 26/27.5/29 Inch MTB Air Fork 15x110mm 34mm Tube 15x100mm Thru Axle Suspension Fork 120/140mm Travel"

[alfiomotrambo]

If you want to give Baloney a try this is the correct fork to roll the dice on:  https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810128429442.html?

"BOLANY BOOST Bike Air Fork 26/27.5/29 Inch MTB Air Fork 15x110mm 34mm Tube 15x100mm Thru Axle Suspension Fork 120/140mm Travel"

I will take a look

Thanks!

[easyriderZO6]

Im an hearing from oiz owners the suspension is regressive - very stiff much oriented to XC.

How the suspension on this model feels on trails? tech and chunk?

I am aiming this as a DC /  light trail bike

[janis]

I have m861, can´t say its very stiff, they changed only rear triangle of m868, so likely the same. Depends  what shock you are going to use. I had sidluxe originally M/M tune, had to add larger token and make compression stiffer. It was bottoming out really easy on bumpy road, xc riding(im max 76kg)

[easyriderZO6]

I have m861, can´t say its very stiff, they changed only rear triangle of m868, so likely the same. Depends  what shock you are going to use. I had sidluxe originally M/M tune, had to add larger token and make compression stiffer. It was bottoming out really easy on bumpy road, xc riding(im max 76kg)

That is actually good news for me sounds pretty progressive. thanks for the helpful comment.

at what sag this happeded?

the shock i have for it is sidluxe ultimate. regular M/M factory tuning. i am 80 kg riding mostly trail + Xc. so a shock token or tune. maybe even going with a float x will be considered.

i have every bits and pieces ready, just the frame is missing, hopefully soon 

[easyriderZO6]

I found a youtube video uploaded recently with a a sweeeeet xtr kashima build- discussed by the technician who build it, you can have that video translated via youtube.
the technician is really exaggerating with the verdict on the bearings and the costs of the bearing replacement - its a single pivot, from what i read all over from users,  the bearings are fine - just need extra greasing to be on the safe side.

i didnt really understand the shock hardware issue as well- it is standard and no one reported this issue.

overall a positive video - great looking build
just copy paste the link [liink]www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNLG3LAFo5M&t=328s[link]

[nallen]

I found a youtube video uploaded recently with a a sweeeeet xtr kashima build- discussed by the technician who build it, you can have that video translated via youtube.
the technician is really exaggerating with the verdict on the bearings and the costs of the bearing replacement - its a single pivot, from what i read all over from users,  the bearings are fine - just need extra greasing to be on the safe side.

i didnt really understand the shock hardware issue as well- it is standard and no one reported this issue.

overall a positive video - great looking build
just copy paste the link

I am immediately skeptical of these guys because they say some odd things, like needing a lathe to “fix” the spacers on the rear shock so they fit.  You just buy the right spacers for like $10, there is not an industry standard of shock spacers.  This isn’t a flaw, and you don’t need a lathe to address it.

The comments on the bearings are non-specific, why did there replace the bearings?  What was the actual issue?  Was this a user error issue or a defect or a poor quality spec?  I did look at bearing replacements, they are a standard size and cost like $10 for the main bearings, I can get a set of 4 of the smaller bearings for $20.  If you are building bike up from components I would hope replacing a bearings is not a worry.

Several of the Russian commenters point these things out as well.  Bike stores have a bias, their incentive is to find problems, the only safe choice is to buy from their store.  If this is the worst they can come up with then they found nothing.

[easyriderZO6]

I am immediately skeptical of these guys because they say some odd things, like needing a lathe to “fix” the spacers on the rear shock so they fit.  You just buy the right spacers for like $10, there is not an industry standard of shock spacers.  This isn’t a flaw, and you don’t need a lathe to address it.

The comments on the bearings are non-specific, why did there replace the bearings?  What was the actual issue?  Was this a user error issue or a defect or a poor quality spec?  I did look at bearing replacements, they are a standard size and cost like $10 for the main bearings, I can get a set of 4 of the smaller bearings for $20.  If you are building bike up from components I would hope replacing a bearings is not a worry.

Several of the Russian commenters point these things out as well.  Bike stores have a bias, their incentive is to find problems, the only safe choice is to buy from their store.  If this is the worst they can come up with then they found nothing.

[/color]

Exactly bud!!!!!


My frame has landed, hopefully this week i will hit the singletracks

[nallen]

Update from my build:

I had a small creak from the suspension, nothing big but annoying.  After ruling things out successively, I determined it was the suspension pivots, so off I went to check them out.  Two discoveries. 

First, the pivots aren't greased at all from the factory, that's going to give you some noise.  Pulling everything apart, greasing the pivots, and reassembling (have your medium thread lock handy!) made the sound go away.  Problem solved.

Second, this gave me a chance to check the bearings, the main pivot is far too rough for a bike which hasn't even seen a full season of riding.  I have ordered replacements, as expected they aren't expensive, I even got the nicer stainless steel ones and only ended up spending $32.  These bearings don't really move that much, so I haven't noticed during riding, but now I know and I want things to be right.

Also a comment for others doing this:  On the main pivot, there are several spacer/washers.  2 thin (<1mm) 3 thick (~2mm), and a cone shaped washer that fits the bolt head, which is also cone-shaped.  The thin ones go next to the main bearings, as they are thin enough to slip into the gap (more important on the drive-side.  I used a bit of grease to hold it in place and then slide it into position.  The order of the others starting from the bolt head:  The large cone washer, 3 thick spacers, finally the other thin spacer.  Torque it down to 20 n-m (my bike torque wrench only goes to 15, so I did that and then a bit more.)

I mention this because getting it out took some effort and when it finally popped free things went flying, and it helps to know what you're looking for. I only found 2 of the thick spacers, thinking that was all of them, only to find the pivot bolt was no longer flush with the frame.  It took my far too long of searching the room to find the missing spacer!  Don't be me.  I tried to find a place to order these spacers, and they are not commonly available, so consider them precious.

Edit:  I figured out what the spacers are, they are pedal washers, so you can order then if you lose them.

Otherwise, the bike is riding really well, I am getting the suspension dialed in, I am also bottoming out the rear suspension more than I think I should, so I added a larger spacer and I am bringing the pressure up.  I'm 100 kg so yeah, probably going to need a bit more stiffness regardless.

[easyriderZO6]

Thanks for the valuable update bud.

I am not sure if go on full bearing replacement , or just open seals apply premium grease and see how long they will last.

I will remove the main pivot to regrease with caution ,thanks again for the heads up

I should get my frame any day now, will update

[Panczo]

Hello.

My project is complete. The first rides confirm that it's a very good frame with great geometry. Final weight: 10.7 kg

[pawelbb]

Hi everyone
I think it's time to write a few words about my M861. I built the bike about 1.5 years ago. It's ridden over 4000km, mostly in mountainous terrain. After about two months, I had to replace all the bearings. Actually, it was only after installing the Endura ones that they were okay, let's say. I previously installed them from a local shop, and they lasted a month. I bought new ones on AliExpress, and the same thing happened.
The handlebar bearings are in the same situation. Only a brand-name set solved the noise problem, although not completely.
In the fall, the rear swingarm cracked, and I received a new one free of charge.
In the winter, more noises appeared from the crank area. Thinking it was the bearings because they were already a bit worn, I waited until spring to replace the entire crank with a xx crank with a Dub system.
Meanwhile, play appeared in the upper swingarm mount.
After a few measurements, it turned out that there was about 0.02mm difference between the bushing and the bolt. The bolts were probably wearing out. A friend of mine made new, tighter bearing bushings, and so far, everything's fine. After installing the new crankset and bearings, it turned out the noise was still there. I started lubricating everything I could, including the frame bearings, but nothing helped.
I even bought new bearings for the BSA cartridge, which turned out to be unnecessary.
I pinpointed the source of the noise with a stethoscope. After removing the BSA bearings and carefully inspecting them, a crack appeared in the BSA cartridge. The seller ignored the issue.

http://youtube.com/shorts/_7fq1cAbbs0?si=nfqNHjmwzOSGxziB

[tisun]

I guess with this type of issue you gotta replace the frame right?  No way you can replace just the BB shell.

[pawelbb]

I guess with this type of issue you gotta replace the frame right?  No way you can replace just the BB shell.

exactly, but the seller doesn't want to say it directly. He claims that the new frames don't have this connector between the threads.

Exactly, but the seller won't say it directly. He claims that the new frames don't have this threaded connector.

Below are some better photos of the project.

Weight: 10.95
Carbon wheels: 30mm, Goldix hubs, Aspen 2.4 120tpi tires, Tubolight rear wheel insert
SID Ultimate 2x shock
XTR brakes, XT 180mm brake discs
XX1 crankset, XX1 cassette
Tune saddle
Reverb 150mm seatpost
XTR pedals
XT shifter, XTR rear derailleur
DTSwiss lockout
RPantahi cockpit, tire repair kit in the handlebar
All titanium bolts
Xcadey power meter
Frame wrapped in plastic
ESI grips, plastic cages

[tisun]

Question to all who have bought this frame and built their bikes: Do you use the included headset or use an after market solution?  The one comes with the frame has little holes for cables and it makes the cables bent too much.