ICAN Flyee Frameset

[Blueberry]

Is it usual to face BB shell with T47?

I think its commonly neglected but still important, even for threaded bottom brackets. With a faced bb you'll get a quieter/smoother ride, longer lasting bears, and less opportunity for grit to enter the system.

[erallen30]

I'm pretty sure the threads in the fork are messed up, they look okay but maybe there's some clear coat in there or something. I tried a different through axle and it went in about a third of the way and then hit some serious resistance. I talked to ICAN and we came to the conclusion that I'll get the M12x1.5mm tap, do it myself, and if I screw it up they'll send me a new fork. I'm fairly confident in my tapping skills, so I think that is definitely the speediest solution. I was really hoping ICAN would just do a fantastic job and I wouldn't have to worry about any of this though :/ My image of them having super excellent quality and quality control is definitely damaged. I'm remaining optimistic that once it is built it will be great though. Right now I'm still waiting on parts, I don't think it'll be finished for another few weeks.

Hmmm. Think maybe the holes are misaligned?

[TidyDinosaur]

Damn, that's a beautiful frame The weight is also OK.

[PLA]

Wish they could just get the basics right. Frustrating to see basic quality issues still popping up.

Still a nice looking frame. Love the geo.

[Blueberry]

I was able to re-tap the threads and that seems to have fixed one issue, the thru axle threads are stripped and I need a new one though (ICAN said they would send one). The tap was doing a lot of work, definitely took more cutting fluid than I expected to get through... It was pretty rough in there. And that tap cost $43. If I didn't have access to the machine shop at my work and have all these these tools on hand I would definitely be less inclined to buy relatively untested framesets.

The original thru axle won't thread in but I tried one from a different bike and that one threads in fine now.

[PLA]

I was able to re-tap the threads and that seems to have fixed one issue, the thru axle threads are stripped and I need a new one though (ICAN said they would send one). The tap was doing a lot of work, definitely took more cutting fluid than I expected to get through... It was pretty rough in there. And that tap cost $43. If I didn't have access to the machine shop at my work and have all these these tools on hand I would definitely be less inclined to buy relatively untested framesets.

The original thru axle won't thread in but I tried one from a different bike and that one threads in fine now.

my experience with the thru axles that come with chinese frames is a bit meh, especially when used with dt hubs that usually require more torque than the axles can spec. i always end up just using dt thru axles. they're cheap and good.

[erallen30]

I was able to re-tap the threads and that seems to have fixed one issue, the thru axle threads are stripped and I need a new one though (ICAN said they would send one). The tap was doing a lot of work, definitely took more cutting fluid than I expected to get through... It was pretty rough in there. And that tap cost $43. If I didn't have access to the machine shop at my work and have all these these tools on hand I would definitely be less inclined to buy relatively untested framesets.

The original thru axle won't thread in but I tried one from a different bike and that one threads in fine now.

Glad you were able to get it sorted on your own. Hopefully ICAN can resolve that issue in future production. Will be nice to learn how it rides and if any other problems arise while riding.

[patliean1]

especially when used with dt hubs that usually require more torque than the axles can spec. i always end up just using dt thru axles.

This is interesting. I've notice a few of my Chinese wheels using the 1st-Gen DT Swiss style design have a tiny bit of play. Specifically on my Giant Propel. This initially start happening on my first set of Magene wheels, so I assumed the issue was isolated. Figured maybe the end caps were sloppy. But it does the same on the second pair. Third time on a set of wheels from a different brand using the same hubs.

Giant recommends 11nm for their thru axles. Any more than that would make it tough to change a puncture on the side of the road. Perhaps the issue all along are the thru axles. Thanks.

[PLA]

This is interesting. I've notice a few of my Chinese wheels using the 1st-Gen DT Swiss style design have a tiny bit of play. Specifically on my Giant Propel. This initially start happening on my first set of Magene wheels, so I assumed the issue was isolated. Figured maybe the end caps were sloppy. But it does the same on the second pair. Third time on a set of wheels from a different brand using the same hubs.

Giant recommends 11nm for their thru axles. Any more than that would make it tough to change a puncture on the side of the road. Perhaps the issue all along are the thru axles. Thanks.

I have the peak power of a gorilla and ftp of a newborn baby, so the first thing I get is brake rub if the axles aren't done tight enough. Most of the Chinese frames I've had come with those crappy 10Nm axles and I get the play like you mentioned and brake rub. DT recommend 15-20Nm. I do them at 15Nm and that is fine with no issues. No idea how anyone could possibly undo them with the pissy little handles they supply, probably need to stand on them. I actually carry around a regular length 6mm Wera hex key in my saddle bag for roadside.

[patliean1]

DT recommend 15-20Nm. I do them at 15Nm and that is fine with no issues. No idea how anyone could possibly undo them with the pissy little handles they supply, probably need to stand on them. I actually carry around a regular length 6mm Wera hex key in my saddle bag for roadside.

That's funny. I stopped carry a multi-tool years ago, in favor of standard length 4, 5, and 6mm hex keys myself. Gonna add those Wera hex key to the wishlist...

[Blueberry]

I finished the build over the weekend. Unfortunately I have some small health problems that are keeping me from doing any serious riding right now so I haven't been able to fully test it out beyond a couple small 2-4 mile rides around town. So far I don't have any thoughts on how stiff it is or is not. It feels bumpy because I used the 25c tires I've had lying around for over a year (I'm pretty devoted to 32c tires). When I can do more riding I think I will test it with a different wheelset that has wider tires because 25c feels hella squirrely to me. I'll try to do a better review on how it rides after I've been able to get some solid miles on it, but that might might still be several months down the line.

The bike does have some odd things that might be nice for ICAN to change in future versions:

1) The radius at the tip of the fork, around where the thru axle threads in, is really small. Small to the point that the heads of most thru axles will stick out a bit around the edge ever so slightly. It would be nicer if it was designed in a away that the thru axle could sit flush inside an indent like the rear one does. Plus its weird that the front/rear axles have different thread pitches.
2) Specific to me as a rider: I have semi-collapsed arches that cause my knees to go inward slightly when I pedal and its pretty common that my knees will brush against the top tube which feels extra weird because of how sharp the angle is on this frame's particularly flat toptube.
3) They did not include a chainstay protector which is not the worst but would have been nice to have.
4) Not a fan of the carbon cradle on the seatpost. I swapped it with a metal one from a seatpost that was lying around at home.
5) There is no Di2 specific hole for a rear derailleur, you have to use the one indented for mechanical drivetrains. I used a zip-tie to hold the cable down to the chainstay which does not looks all that elegant but mostly works (there are separate Di2 and mechanical holes for a front derailleur.)
6) Nothing on the frame was faced.
7) The whole issue with the stripped threads on the fork.

Things I do like:

1) Looks super neat
2) Frame seemed very clean inside, it was easy to route the hydraulic hoses and Di2 cables. Other than the issue with the fork threads, building it was a breeze.
3) T47bb is definitely superior to BSA.
4) I like the geometry, especially the bigger headtube. Most bikes my size have a 120-130mm headtube, this one is 144mm. If slamming your stem makes you feel cool, more folks could probably do that with this frame.
5) The UDH is nice.
6) Big tire clearance. I put on a wheelset with 32C tires and there is still plenty of room, I bet you could fit 35c if you really wanted to go all out.
7) I put this as a pro because it was a fun side project for me and a humble bragging point - I got to design and 3d print the top and bottom spacers for the headset. I had injection molded parts I could have used but the OD of the headtube was 57mm and I think the bottom spacer that came with the barstem was 56mm. It looked a little weird. The mating features on the top spacer that came with the barstem didn't really fit them right either (these were the bars that came with the Onirii One frameset I built earlier this year - they are not from ICAN).

ICAN sent me a new front thru axle but the tracking they gave me has not updated in 10 days so who knows where it is. Right now I am using the front axle from my gravel bike which is a couple mm short (another reason not to do any serious riding on it yet).

It seems like a fine bike and it does look great. It was cloudy when I took the photos so they mostly don't do the paint job justice but it looks beautiful in the sun. I built it 1x because I had 1x chainrings I needed to do something with. It has a 42t front chainring and a 11-42t cassette so it has that 1:1 great ratio that is nice for a climby bike. The top end is limited though. One of those gearing calculators told me that it would top out around 33mph (at 110rpm). It's a slightly weird build and definitely not a race bike but I figure its an excellent bike for a climbing enthusiast that is not crazy about dare-devil descending or doing huge watts on the flats. It could be good for a climby road race with a hilltop finish I suppose. Plus you can build yours however you want

[jonathanf2]

Nice build! Is there a weight limit and/or no-weight warning for that top tube? Looks really thin from the side view. Also I'd consider a 10-42t cassette if possible. At least for mechanical GRX, shifting with the 10t cog isn't a problem. Spedao makes a lightweight 10-42t 11 speed cassette, and I've had no issues with it. You can also drop down on the chainring if you want more climbing gears.

This frame is definitely on my radar now. Thanks for posting your build process!

[TidyDinosaur]

I don't really know why, but that frame definitely looks a real step up compared to most of the 500-700EUR frames on Ali. If you would put "TREK" on it, I think you could fool a lot of people into thinking it is a big brand expensive frame.

[kubackje]

I don't really know why, but that frame definitely looks a real step up compared to most of the 500-700EUR frames on Ali. If you would put "TREK" on it, I think you could fool a lot of people into thinking it is a big brand expensive frame.

Or ORBEA because it's basically a copy of the new orca

[Blueberry]

an Orca/Flyee comparison photo, for everyone's viewing pleasure
you can play "spot the difference" !