Workswell WCB-M-062

[Carbon_Dude]

Last week when I switched out my brakes from SRAM DB5's to the new Shimano XT M-8000's on my Stache, I needed to buy the SRAM trigger shifter clamp since the XT brakes are not matchmaker compatible.  This didn't bother me since I like having the ability to adjust the location of the shifter separately from the brake lever.

Also notice that you can move the set screw in your shifter from one hole to the other so you have the option to move the shifter more inboard or more outboard with respect to the brake lever.

[german88]

Aahh, I was perplexed at the allen plugged hole and it's use on the clamp.  Thanks for enlightening me on the purpose.  I agree with your thoughts on having more adjustability.  I'll play with all the options once the frame arrives and I can start hanging parts.

[lexicon]

Here's another option: I run a Problem Solvers adapter on mine. Shimano brakes, XX1 shifter. Works good, looks good.

http://problemsolversbike.com/products/mismatch_adapters
http://problemsolversbike.com/files/blog/MisMatch_1.1_Adapter_INST.pdf

[drakiebomb]

Survey:

062 on a Niner RDO fork?

Purpose: touring bike with marathon supreme tyres 2.0

Any comments my chiner brothers? 

[bxcc]

Survey:

062 on a Niner RDO fork?

Purpose: touring bike with marathon supreme tyres 2.0

Any comments my chiner brothers? 

I'm running the Workswell rigid fork with a A2C measurement of 482 on mine with great results. I can't see why the Niner fork wouldn't work great too.

[RS VR6]

Pic from the weekend. Sorry for the picture faux pas...my shadow and non driveside. Also finally chased away all the ticks and creaks on the bike.

[Carbon_Dude]

Nice!

[Jar_head]

Pic from the weekend. Sorry for the picture faux pas...my shadow and non driveside. Also finally chased away all the ticks and creaks on the bike.

What ticks did you have?
And what was creaking?

My bike is creaking too when I go out of the saddle and full power. I think it might be the seatpost.. but i used carbon paste when assembling it. Or the allowed torque of my seatpost clamp (4 Nm) is too less?!
And I still look for an easy way to silence the rattling brake hose inside the frame. In the best case without loosen the hose.

[RS VR6]

I had four noises that I was chasing down.

1. I found to be my Nokon shift housing. Some light lube on the links fixed that.

2. Where the brake hose enters the frame. It's a tight fit, so I guess the friction was making a creaking sound when I turn the bar.. Again, some light lube fixed that.

3. Loud creaking from the front end after fixing the creaking from the shift housing and brake hose. Took apart the headset, cleaned and re lubed the bearings and the cups where they sit. I did a ride after and so far...no noise.

4. The ticking...this was the one I was chasing for a while. I initially thought it was the seat rail, cleaned and lubed the hardware. Then I thought it was the seat rail...lubed the rail and clamp...nope. Cleaned and regreased the seat clamp bolt...nope. Swapped saddles...still nope. So out of the blue one night...I turned the seat clamp around 180 degrees. Boom...no more noise. 

If the creaking is making noise when you're out of the saddle...it's probably not the seat post. Double check the headset and bottom bracket. If you're running a double chainring...also check that the chainring bolts are tight and greased.

The rattling inside the frame isn't that bad. I'd have to be going pretty fast over some real rough terrain for it to be really noticeable...or maybe I'm just used to it. 

[MTB2223]

And I still look for an easy way to silence the rattling brake hose inside the frame. In the best case without loosen the hose.

Two solutions:
- Isolation tube: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,150.msg2326.html#msg2326
- Sponges: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/chinese-carbon-29er-640919-320.html#post11461755

[Jar_head]

I had four noises that I was chasing down.

1. I found to be my Nokon shift housing. Some light lube on the links fixed that.

2. Where the brake hose enters the frame. It's a tight fit, so I guess the friction was making a creaking sound when I turn the bar.. Again, some light lube fixed that.

3. Loud creaking from the front end after fixing the creaking from the shift housing and brake hose. Took apart the headset, cleaned and re lubed the bearings and the cups where they sit. I did a ride after and so far...no noise.

4. The ticking...this was the one I was chasing for a while. I initially thought it was the seat rail, cleaned and lubed the hardware. Then I thought it was the seat rail...lubed the rail and clamp...nope. Cleaned and regreased the seat clamp bolt...nope. Swapped saddles...still nope. So out of the blue one night...I turned the seat clamp around 180 degrees. Boom...no more noise. 

If the creaking is making noise when you're out of the saddle...it's probably not the seat post. Double check the headset and bottom bracket. If you're running a double chainring...also check that the chainring bolts are tight and greased.

The rattling inside the frame isn't that bad. I'd have to be going pretty fast over some real rough terrain for it to be really noticeable...or maybe I'm just used to it. 

Next thing I will try, is removing the headset, cause it's easier than taking out the BB30 again.. (and probably have to take new ones due to destroying the current while removing).
So you greased the carbon headtube cup itself? I was not quite sure, if it will harm the carbon.. I did it anyway, cause that's the way I know it's been done.
If the noise is still there, I will have to remove the BB...

Do you use the seatclamp that came with the frame?

I run a single chain ring mounted directly to the crank arm. But I will double check those 3 bolts, too.

The creaking at the hose-entry sounds familiar But every bit of grease attracts dust and dirt..

By the way, what rear axle do you use? Looks light

And I still look for an easy way to silence the rattling brake hose inside the frame. In the best case without loosen the hose.

Two solutions:
- Isolation tube: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,150.msg2326.html#msg2326
- Sponges: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/chinese-carbon-29er-640919-320.html#post11461755

Okay thanks, I will try the isolation tube..

[RS VR6]

I had four noises that I was chasing down.

1. I found to be my Nokon shift housing. Some light lube on the links fixed that.

2. Where the brake hose enters the frame. It's a tight fit, so I guess the friction was making a creaking sound when I turn the bar.. Again, some light lube fixed that.

3. Loud creaking from the front end after fixing the creaking from the shift housing and brake hose. Took apart the headset, cleaned and re lubed the bearings and the cups where they sit. I did a ride after and so far...no noise.

4. The ticking...this was the one I was chasing for a while. I initially thought it was the seat rail, cleaned and lubed the hardware. Then I thought it was the seat rail...lubed the rail and clamp...nope. Cleaned and regreased the seat clamp bolt...nope. Swapped saddles...still nope. So out of the blue one night...I turned the seat clamp around 180 degrees. Boom...no more noise. 

If the creaking is making noise when you're out of the saddle...it's probably not the seat post. Double check the headset and bottom bracket. If you're running a double chainring...also check that the chainring bolts are tight and greased.

The rattling inside the frame isn't that bad. I'd have to be going pretty fast over some real rough terrain for it to be really noticeable...or maybe I'm just used to it. 

Next thing I will try, is removing the headset, cause it's easier than taking out the BB30 again.. (and probably have to take new ones due to destroying the current while removing).
So you greased the carbon headtube cup itself? I was not quite sure, if it will harm the carbon.. I did it anyway, cause that's the way I know it's been done.
If the noise is still there, I will have to remove the BB...

Do you use the seatclamp that came with the frame?

I run a single chain ring mounted directly to the crank arm. But I will double check those 3 bolts, too.

The creaking at the hose-entry sounds familiar But every bit of grease attracts dust and dirt..

By the way, what rear axle do you use? Looks light

I put lube in the cups where the bearings sit. I applied the grease with a small brush. The Park Poly Lube works well. I don't know what the tolerance is between the cup and bearing, but I'm sure there is some kind of movement in there. I only get the noise when there was some kind of pulling torque on the handlebar like when I'm climbing. When I took it apart, I had a lot of grit in there. Cleaned it all up and greased. I did a ride last weekend with some good climbing and I got no noise. If you did not put any grease in there...try it and see if it helps.

Here is a good video on how to service the headset:

BB30's are known to make noise if not installed properly. Even installed properly.. they at times can still make noise. If your BB is somehow damaged...then that could be the source of one of your creaks.

The lube I used at the entry point of the brake hose is Pro Gold. It comes in a pen and the tip is needle thin. Its a failry light oil, so hopefully it won't attract too much dust.

The rear axle I used is for an Evil Following. I had to use a ~2mm shim to keep the axle from bottoming out before the wheel would tighten down.

[xcbarny]

Rear thru axles can be a common cause for creak, if not done up tight enough.

Glad yours is still going strong RSV6

[german88]

Look what arrived today!

[carbonazza]

You like the orange right
My all black seems so boring now.