LTWOO eGR

[amacal1]

I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.

Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.

[trcycling]

I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.

Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.

I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec).  I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting.  I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t.  Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.

[amacal1]

I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec).  I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting.  I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t.  Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.

Yep! Exactly right. Again, we're using it out of spec and it still works (mostly) fine, but with the extra space required on the b-screw it's not as snappy and responsive to shift as it was before.

On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.

Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)

[jonathanf2]

Has anyone tried a Goatlink/hanger extender with the eGR? I could imagine it’d give the b screw just a little bit more leeway to clear a 50t big cog.

[trcycling]

Has anyone tried a Goatlink/hanger extender with the eGR? I could imagine it’d give the b screw just a little bit more leeway to clear a 50t big cog.

Good question. I considered it but on my bike the hanger and B-screw were enough to put it in the right place. Might not be true with other hangers.

But I don't think the Goatlink (or similar) will help the 'too steep a ramp' problem on the out-of-spec 50t. Or at least not without possibly making for problematic shifting on the smaller cogs by holding it too far away.

[gloscherrybomb]

Yeah goatlink doesn't help. You can get enough clearance with the B screw but the overall shifting is compromised. I would 100% suggest Wheeltop if you need to run 50T.

[jonathanf2]

Just to confirm, is the Wheeltop Gex the same RD just with longer cage to clear the bigger cassette? From the looks of it, if the eGR cage is removable, then it can accommodate a long cage for better in-spec 50t shifting, correct? Similar how you can swap out the cage on a GRX 812 RD for a Garbaruk cage.

If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. 

[00Garza]

On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.

Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)

Good to know spare parts are available instead of just having to replace the whole unit. I could've saved a little money with another vendor, but this after sales care is why I also bought mine from 80 designer store.

[amacal1]

If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. 

Well, I'm about to find out. 80s designer store just sold me a replacement cage for mine that was likely damaged.

The funny thing is, Ltwoo sells "upgrade" derailleur cage assemblies for most other popular groupsets by Shimano and maybe Sram, but not for their own derailleurs! Which, maybe made sense when they were selling "budget" groupsets, but now they're selling "premium" groupsets I would have thought they'd make some bling parts for people who are into that sorta thing.

[trcycling]

Just to confirm, is the Wheeltop Gex the same RD just with longer cage to clear the bigger cassette? From the looks of it, if the eGR cage is removable, then it can accommodate a long cage for better in-spec 50t shifting, correct? Similar how you can swap out the cage on a GRX 812 RD for a Garbaruk cage.

If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. 

Wheeltop offers the GeX with two cage lengths one rated to 46t and one to 51t (the one I'm also using). I've heard second-hand that they've said it should work on 52t also but they had some problems on some bikes and decided not so officially support that.

More importantly, the GeX is a different RD than the road TX version. So likely the geometry in the main links is different to allow for a wider range cassette as well. The TX only supports 36t

Given that the LTWOO eGR DOES work up to 50t, just not optimally, I'm not sure a longer cage would help all that much. I haven't observed problems with chain wrap (taking up the slack) which is usually what is helped with a long cage. For example, tike the Garbaruk one I had on a Force RD before the LTWOO to reach 50t. It also DID work, but didn't shift quite as slickly as I would have liked (and why I'm playing with other options)  I think it is a geometry challenge in the motion that leaves the upper jockey wheel either too close to the 50t or too far from the 11t

To be clear, the LTWOO does work all the way to 50t. It is just not optimal. You must step one cog at a time in the last couple. For rated capacity and a Di2 prepped frame, I'd happily use it again (and it's sitting on a shelf with that intent)

[carloescobar]

I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.

Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.

Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)

Any other recommendations when installing?

[00Garza]

I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.

Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.

Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)

Any other recommendations when installing?

My eGR arrived a week or so ago. Calipers look similar to my GR9 ones. Spacing seems to be 70mm on both gr9 and eGR. Was GR9 originally flat mount?

Here’s a pic of the battery it came with…even though I selected the no battery option.

EDIT: It seems the mounting hardware is different from GR9 to eGR. Not sure if that's what makes it post mount instead of flat.

[amacal1]

I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.

Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.

Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)

Any other recommendations when installing?

I'm almost positive you need the ones with the little nub (not the flat ones). Also, probably best to get one without any kind of circuit board or other fancy internal features.

[Phaxe]

Yep! Exactly right. Again, we're using it out of spec and it still works (mostly) fine, but with the extra space required on the b-screw it's not as snappy and responsive to shift as it was before.

On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.

Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)

This is exactly what I need after I bent the cage. How much did it set you back?

[amacal1]

This is exactly what I need after I bent the cage. How much did it set you back?

$30 + tax. I think it worked out to be about $33 exactly.

I had reached out to them via Ali Express message to ask about it.
They sent me some kind of Ali Express invoice or code or something to purchase $15 "Extra Fee". They instructed me via message to purchase qty 2 of them = $30. Once it processed it seems to be proceeding like any other order with tracking numbers and everything else. They sent me more pics at that point to show them packaged up and shipping.

I'll try and post pics when I receive it and install it and generally update about the process of changing them. Fingers crossed that I don't run into any issues. I have a gravel race this weekend, so hopefully it holds out long enough to ride that and I can receive shortly after that to have it ready in time for the next one.