Here's an update on my frame. Unfortunately i have an issue with the cover that goes on top of the steerer tube. It's crooked and therefore doesn't sit straight. I sent Chris pictures and he confirmed to me that it's faulty. He told me they'll sende me a new (unpainted) one. This was end of january and no update yet. I asked multiple times and now answer.
I have issues with reappearing headset play. I'm not sure if that's related to the cover not sitting correctly but i think so. I also had the integrated handlebars come lose once after going over cobbles even though i torqued them to spec. I tightened them further and they didn't come lose again but i still have headset play issues. Hope this will get fixed with the new cover. Hope it will finally arrive or at least i get a reply. Before shipping Chris was really responsive. Now not so much anymore.
I also have some slight issues with the saddle clamp. I think a one screw clamp ist just a bad design. If i torque it really tight it holds up but i would prefer a two clamp mechanism. I ordered an spcycle R088 so the Velobuild will probably stay on the smart trainer anyway but i still would like to fix the headset issues.
I'll attach some pictures of the crooked cover.
If chris said he'd send you a replacement, he probably did. You may simply be able to grind the white one a bit, btw. This area of the bike is tricky, internal routing is still very new, so there are a lot of things that can cause rubbing, force applied in the wrong directions and so on. If you understand what you're doing (that's a big if), dont be afraid to torque more than advised, one reason being that the complexity of the rig sometimes means some of the force isn't applied in the right axis. Another reason is that if you have an expander plug in the steerer, over tightening the stem isn't going to crush the steerer, for eg. But if it's carbon it may snap the stem, hence the "
If you understand what you're doing ". I over tighten my expander plug, for example, and the stem cap, because it's the only way i get stuff not to slip. But i do that when the stem is in place, so i'm not going to explode the steerer, and the stem cap is never going to crush the steerer, the bolt will give out first. So it's controlled chaos
That said, if your C ring doesnt have a slit in it, for eg, then good luck getting rid of play. Ditto if your headset bearing seats aren't the right size.
As i said, it's complicated.
I will just give a brief report on my 268 after 1600+km. It's my first road bike and I'm satisfied as I can get. Honestly don't know what more would I want from a frame as cheap as this one. I swapped my handlebars to 38/90 from 42/110, and it suits me better.
Seatpost doesn't slip but I did have a couple of instances where my saddle tilted a bit. I cleaned the interface with brake cleaner and tightened it to around 10-12nm and it's rock solid under my 85kg ass.
Headset did go loose from time to time, but I fixed it with some random aliex plug that seemes a bit rougher than the one I've put previously. Interestingly, the longer plug slipped often, but this rougher and smaller endures firmly so far.
Only gripe is the paint finish. I wish it was a bit tougher. It chips pretty fast and easy. And it's too bad considering the painjob itself is really nice.
That's pretty much all. I'm enjoying the road bike after years of mtb, and jumping on my (pretty lightweight) xc machince, I'm feeling so slugish XD... But the first time I jumped on the road bike I thought It would brake, how thin everything is. 
That's a great summary of what to expect from these bikes, i think. It works, it's good value, what else to expect? I have ridden quite a few branded & high end road bikes over the years, my cheap open mould from long teng is just amazing, i really dont see how the frame would be the limiting factor in the equation of me + bike. It's rather clearly me that can't do the bike justice.
