FM1001 / FM1156 - 135mm frame

[casual_build]

Generally speaking, when Ican sells a Carbonda frame, it's coming from the same Flybike factory and should be identical.

Do you have information to support that? I think they are different.

IIRC FM1001 stands for "flybike mold 1001". Flybike makes molds and frames. AFIAK, Carbonda and ICAN could be using different carbon or a different carbon layup in the frame.

ICAN lists the P13 medium at 2.65kg and Carbonda lists the medium 1001 at 2.3kg.

Lighter is better IMO, usually means smarter layup or better materials.

[Neb]

It has gone a bit quiet in here... How is everyone getting on with their FM1001 frames?

I've done about 2000km on mine, not high on mileage but descended about 45000m of very rough, rocky, natural trails. Still one of the best bikes I've ever had.

[Tijoe]

I primarily rode my hardtails and gravel bike this past summer.  I rode my FS bike perhaps 8 times.  I still need to fine tune the shocks.  A buddy has a shock wiz that he helps us tune our suspensions.  I didn't get around to finishing the tune, so I can't state how much I like this bike overall because the shocks aren't optimized, plus, I lost 15 pounds over the summer, and this affects the harshness and travel of the shocks, just enough to bug me.

[bossman302]

I believe I just hit the 3 year mark this month. I've only put about 1,350 miles in that time. The only issues I've had have been the bearings. Had to replace the lower shock bearings 2 times so far. Also replaced all the main pivot bearings. Four were bad. Unfortunately, I haven't used the bike all that much this year as I went to the dark side and purchased an e-bike. Been riding the e-bike since all my riding buddies have e-bikes as well. Overall, it's been a good bike. The only change I want to make is the travel on the fork. Hoping bumping it up to 150 might help some of the harshness when riding through the chunk.

[filipes]

IMHO 150 fork is a must-have for this bike to be proper tail bike. Stabiliy at speed & confidence in steep is step up. Also stack is quite low, so 150 and high riser bar help here. Does anybody ride FM1001 with 160 fork? The only reason why not to it is higher BB and reach robbed by another 5mm.... HA 64,5 is absolutely fine, SA slackedned to 77 still acceptable...

[filipes]

Did anybody investigated if there is any possibilty to slacken HA? 64 would be very nice. The only option I find out is IS56/IS56 from Acros but it requires special arrangement in the frame (probably holes), so too much complicaiton.

[zilcho]

IMHO 150 fork is a must-have for this bike to be proper tail bike. Stabiliy at speed & confidence in steep is step up. Also stack is quite low, so 150 and high riser bar help here. Does anybody ride FM1001 with 160 fork? The only reason why not to it is higher BB and reach robbed by another 5mm.... HA 64,5 is absolutely fine, SA slackedned to 77 still acceptable...

Why not go for the 1002 at that point? It already has a 64.5 HA with the suggested 150 fork, and 160/135 on the 1001 is getting to be quite uneven for the use case. I run a 150 on my 1001 and agree with your positive points, but I think it negatively impacts the bikes ability in steep, technical climbing.

[Neb]

Did anybody investigated if there is any possibilty to slacken HA? 64 would be very nice. The only option I find out is IS56/IS56 from Acros but it requires special arrangement in the frame (probably holes), so too much complicaiton.

I have an offset bushing in the rear shock which slackens it the HA and the SA by 0.5°, if you add a 150mm fork it will slacken it further.

[filipes]

Why not go for the 1002 at that point? It already has a 64.5 HA with the suggested 150 fork, and 160/135 on the 1001 is getting to be quite uneven for the use case. I run a 150 on my 1001 and agree with your positive points, but I think it negatively impacts the bikes ability in steep, technical climbing.

If I were buying now, I would opt for FM1002. After almost 2 years, it is too late :-) But hapily exachnge within EU.
I run no spacers under the stem, +30mm handle bar and +10mm stem 50mm long, all this has IMHO positive effect on climbing and for me also to natrualy push more force on front wheel during descents.

[filipes]

If I were buying now, I would opt for FM1002. After almost 2 years, it is too late :-) But hapily exachnge within EU.
I run no spacers under the stem, +30mm handle bar and +10mm stem 50mm long, all this has IMHO positive effect on climbing and for me also to natrualy push more force on front wheel during descents.

Which offset bushing do you have? Frame clearance at full travel is still ok? I was trying to understand how offset busihing will impact the bike and came to smaller impact - with 8mm diameter the offset can be 2mm. With leverage ration 2.5 the difference on rear wheel will be cca 5mm. It translates to cca 3mm lower BB and 0,25 degree slacker head tube. Both changes are very welcomed but I seem to be quite subtle.

I already have enduro max needle bearing pressed in the shock, so it will be quite some trade off to replace it by offset bushing...

[jefflinde]

Looking at getting into this frame.  I am curious is anyone has gone with a 140mm fork?  Also what build weights are you getting?  I am looking to build a trail bike that is light enough for XC usage but looking to use the new Fox 36SL and keep the weight low.  I am looking at a large frame so if anyone weighed their frame before building please let me know. 

Any issues with this frame like bearings or other things? 

Thank you

[jever98]

I built a size M for my wife with a 140 fork. Unfortunately I never weighed it, but it turned out pretty ok weight wise. We went with a Manitou Mattoc Pro for the fork. Great stiffness to weight and super tunable. Recommended.

[grawlinson]

Just ordered a 1001 frame, is the only place to get replacement pivot bearings/etc from Carbonda? I've read skimmed the whole thread, and probably missing a few posts here and there.

[jefflinde]

Just ordered a 1001 frame, is the only place to get replacement pivot bearings/etc from Carbonda? I've read skimmed the whole thread, and probably missing a few posts here and there.

I don't personally have a 1001 (yet) but the bearings can be sourced from anywhere.  The seal of the bearing will have it size and also I think carbonda lists the bearing sizes on their website.  Make sure you torque all the suspension bolts before you ride. I am like 8 for 8 on having loose suspension lots when I get the frame. 

[Neb]

One of the flanged bearings although listed as a standard bearing size, actually has a much thinner flange. Standard bearings don't fit the frame. I had to buy direct from carbonda, which was significantly cheaper than trying to source bearings in the UK anyway.