Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[POTOOOOOOOO]

have you done an online bike fit to look at it?  I use an free online one to look at angles and get chatgpt to analyse it along with foot position.  going shorter isn't for everyone.  I'm 5'6 and use 170mm cranks.  Changing cranks changes a lot of things.  So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position. 

https://mybikefitting.com/en  really easy to do.

It sounds like you don’t understand enough about the subject to make these sweeping statements.
Can you explain how it could make the overall position worse? And foot position? Do you mean cleat position? That’s an entirely different topic .

[jlintl]

Hi eveybody - I fell into the LightCarbon rabbit hole, and am about to order a LCG072-D soon, so I have spent half of my vacation reading a lot here on Chinertown.
A lot, but surely not everything, and so here is my first question:

Can someone tell me what the weight of the down tube storage door is? It looks to be rather weighty since it is aluminum.

[Kwerlo]

Hi everyone,
I wanted to share my experiences with the LCR18 and perhaps ask for some help.
I ordered my frame on May 19th, and it arrived on Monday, July 20th (size 56cm, raw glossy carbon).
The packaging and the parcel itself survived the shipping to Germany well. During the build, I had major issues routing the 105 Di2 cable—likely due to sharp edges in the chainstay junction area. It took me two hours to get the cable through, even using a routing tool.

Build specs: 105 Di2 groupset with Magene P515, old carbon spoke Lightcarbon wheelset; total weight came to 7.9 kg including SPD pedals from ali. Carbon elitaone saddle.

I noticed creaking on the first ride, and it got significantly worse over time. I initially used the included Gineyea bottom bracket. I thought, "Okay, it must be the BB" (like the issue a fellow the English YouTuber had), so I installed a new Kaktus ceramic BB I had bought beforehand. After just 5 km, that one started creaking too. I wondered if it might be the old Magene P515 crankset, that I reused, so I swapped it for a brand-new, unused 105 crank, but the creaking returned after 5 km. I checked the frame for cracks or loose BB cups (I always apply plenty of Shimano Premium Grease before installation), but found nothing obvious. Checked and greased all of the true axles, Based on where the noise is coming from, it has to be the bottom bracket area. Strangely enough, it also creaks when you flex the frame from side to side while applying a bit of pressure, or even just when you step on a pedal. However, when the bottom bracket is removed, there is no creaking, even with lateral pressure.

Now I’ve ordered a Praxis Works BB and hope that fixes the problem.

Have any of you had similar experiences?
Thanks in advance.

Photos will follow once I've finally managed to assemble it without any creaking. 

Could it be the seatpost?

[Schneedolf]

Hi eveybody - I fell into the LightCarbon rabbit hole, and am about to order a LCG072-D soon, so I have spent half of my vacation reading a lot here on Chinertown.
A lot, but surely not everything, and so here is my first question:

Can someone tell me what the weight of the down tube storage door is? It looks to be rather weighty since it is aluminum.

Version 1: 53g without the screws

[DrRoB]

Could it be the seatpost?

No, unfortunately not; it mainly creaks when riding out of the saddle, and only when I stand on the pedals or move them with light pressure.
I suspect that neither the included bottom bracket nor the one from Kactus is compatible with a spacer. However, a spacer is necessary to adjust the crank preload.
I've already adjusted the preload several times with different cranks (P515, 105, Ultegra). Unfortunately, after 2-5 minutes it always starts creaking again.

And here’s my honest opinion about the down-tube storage:
next time, I’d just order the bike without it. In my view, it’s not worth the hassle of sealing the flap or dealing with a potentially insecure fit—plus, when the bag is full, you have to really jam it back in there. It should either be left off entirely, or they need to position the flap either above or below the bottle cage mount.

[J89eu]

I see people are going for 26mm ID wheels, would this still be suitable for this bike for 32mm tyres? I ordered 23mm based on LC's recommendations but now thinking I should swap them to the gravel 26mm ID ones. Only $20 more.
I've not decided on 35mm or 32mm tyres yet, mostly will be on road but looking at Potoooooo's recommendations it seems that 26mm would be better choice either way?

[2wheeledbarbie]

It sounds like you don’t understand enough about the subject to make these sweeping statements.
Can you explain how it could make the overall position worse? And foot position? Do you mean cleat position? That’s an entirely different topic .

Foot position is exactly what I meant. Not everyone uses cleats, so “cleat position” would have been unnecessarily specific. On flat pedals, the position of the pedal under the foot can vary considerably and affects the effective distance from the hip to the pedal, ankle movement and the angles measured during a bike fit.

Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal path by 7.5 mm at both the top and bottom of the stroke. If the saddle is left unchanged, the rider has less hip and knee flexion at the top but more knee flexion at the bottom. If the saddle is raised to restore the original leg extension, that then changes saddle-to-bar drop, and because the saddle moves along the seat-tube angle, it also changes its horizontal position slightly.

That doesn’t mean shorter cranks are bad. They can be very useful, particularly where excessive hip or knee flexion is causing a problem. My point was simply that changing crank length changes several aspects of the fit, so it is sensible to assess the whole position rather than assume it is an isolated change with no possible trade-offs.   But yeah, clearly I don’t understand the subject because I didn’t turn an internet-forum reply into a biomechanics dissertation.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Foot position is exactly what I meant. Not everyone uses cleats, so “cleat position” would have been unnecessarily specific. On flat pedals, the position of the pedal under the foot can vary considerably and affects the effective distance from the hip to the pedal, ankle movement and the angles measured during a bike fit.

Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal path by 7.5 mm at both the top and bottom of the stroke. If the saddle is left unchanged, the rider has less hip and knee flexion at the top but more knee flexion at the bottom. If the saddle is raised to restore the original leg extension, that then changes saddle-to-bar drop, and because the saddle moves along the seat-tube angle, it also changes its horizontal position slightly.

That doesn’t mean shorter cranks are bad. They can be very useful, particularly where excessive hip or knee flexion is causing a problem. My point was simply that changing crank length changes several aspects of the fit, so it is sensible to assess the whole position rather than assume it is an isolated change with no possible trade-offs.   But yeah, clearly I don’t understand the subject because I didn’t turn an internet-forum reply into a biomechanics dissertation.

You wrote

Changing cranks changes a lot of things.  So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position.

Obviously it changes other aspects of your fit. That has already been mentioned here.
I’m keen to understand how it changes things for the worse ? Or was that a general throw away statement ?

The vast majority of people will be using cleats and clipless pedals so their foot position is fixed. For those using flat pedals, well, they are in the minority and I’m not sure they’d be that interested in the biomechanics of shorter cranks given the limited repeatability of their foot placement and retention

[poyo]

No, unfortunately not; it mainly creaks when riding out of the saddle, and only when I stand on the pedals or move them with light pressure.
I suspect that neither the included bottom bracket nor the one from Kactus is compatible with a spacer. However, a spacer is necessary to adjust the crank preload.
I've already adjusted the preload several times with different cranks (P515, 105, Ultegra). Unfortunately, after 2-5 minutes it always starts creaking again.

For me, it turned out to be the rear thru-axle.
I had to tighten it really firmly to make the creaking go away.
I also had a direct mount hanger installed at the time, but I have since switched back to the original UDH derailleur hanger, and now it's fine.
Additionally, I swapped the included bottom bracket for a Praxis bottom bracket. It might be worth checking the rear axle torque before going crazy with the bottom bracket spacers!

[2wheeledbarbie]

You wrote

Changing cranks changes a lot of things.  So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position.

Obviously it changes other aspects of your fit. That has already been mentioned here.
I’m keen to understand how it changes things for the worse ? Or was that a general throw away statement ?

The vast majority of people will be using cleats and clipless pedals so their foot position is fixed. For those using flat pedals, well, they are in the minority and I’m not sure they’d be that interested in the biomechanics of shorter cranks given the limited repeatability of their foot placement, retention and repeatability.

You’ve now said it “obviously changes other aspects of your fit”, which was precisely my point.

Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal circle. If the saddle is left where it is, the foot is 7.5 mm higher at the bottom of the stroke, changing knee extension there. If the saddle is raised to compensate, that increases saddle-to-bar drop and, because the saddle moves up along an angled seat tube, also moves it slightly rearward. That can affect effective reach, torso angle, hand pressure and weight distribution. Depending on the rider and which medical problem they are trying to solve, some of those changes could improve the position and some could make another aspect less comfortable. Hence my carefully chosen word “could”.

Being clipped in fixes the shoe’s attachment point to the pedal; it doesn’t make ankle angle, heel position or the movement of the foot through the stroke irrelevant. And dismissing everyone on flat pedals as a minority who presumably has no interest in bike fit is a rather strange argument  and frankly elitist (my wife and daughter use flats).

So no, it wasn’t a throwaway statement. It was a brief internet-forum comment saying that changing one major fit variable can have knock-on effects and should be assessed as part of the whole position. But yes, apparently unless every use of the word “could” is accompanied by a full biomechanics lecture, it means the person knows nothing.


I'm not going to say another thing on the subject as this isn't the thread for it.  I'll happily reply to a new thread if you make one to continue the discussion after this.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

You’ve now said it “obviously changes other aspects of your fit”, which was precisely my point.

Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal circle. If the saddle is left where it is, the foot is 7.5 mm higher at the bottom of the stroke, changing knee extension there. If the saddle is raised to compensate, that increases saddle-to-bar drop and, because the saddle moves up along an angled seat tube, also moves it slightly rearward. That can affect effective reach, torso angle, hand pressure and weight distribution. Depending on the rider and which medical problem they are trying to solve, some of those changes could improve the position and some could make another aspect less comfortable. Hence my carefully chosen word “could”.

Being clipped in fixes the shoe’s attachment point to the pedal; it doesn’t make ankle angle, heel position or the movement of the foot through the stroke irrelevant. And dismissing everyone on flat pedals as a minority who presumably has no interest in bike fit is a rather strange argument  and frankly elitist (my wife and daughter use flats).

So no, it wasn’t a throwaway statement. It was a brief internet-forum comment saying that changing one major fit variable can have knock-on effects and should be assessed as part of the whole position. But yes, apparently unless every use of the word “could” is accompanied by a full biomechanics lecture, it means the person knows nothing.


I'm not going to say another thing on the subject as this isn't the thread for it.  I'll happily reply to a new thread if you make one to continue the discussion after this.

As I said. I’m keen to understand how it might change things for the worse?

You’ve written the same thing twice but still not answered this.

Yes I did say obviously changes other aspects of your fit. I mentioned that a few pages ago when the poster asked about shorter cranks. They can’t be changed in isolation. Feel free to read some posts rather than just adding your Chat GPT fluff without having any real understanding of the topic. It doesn’t help anyone and ads to the confusion.
Maybe check out some stretching and exercises it could be the solution to your funky front end 😂 probably a better use of your time and Chat GPT usage.

[Michael75455]

Hi eveybody - I fell into the LightCarbon rabbit hole, and am about to order a LCG072-D soon, so I have spent half of my vacation reading a lot here on Chinertown.
A lot, but surely not everything, and so here is my first question:

Can someone tell me what the weight of the down tube storage door is? It looks to be rather weighty since it is aluminum.

I have the latest version of the door and with bottle cage bolts it is 53g.
I just received my frameset 4 days ago.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

I have the latest version of the door and with bottle cage bolts it is 53g.
I just received my frameset 4 days ago.

Cool, is that the version 3 door with downwards lever ?

[MarioCanario]

Maybe check out some stretching and exercises it could be the solution to your funky front end 😂 probably a better use of your time and Chat GPT usage.

what really makes this forum exhausting from time to time is your constant need to convince everyone that your opinion is the right one. And your habit of putting every careless word under the microscope.
there are many friendly ways to make a point

[POTOOOOOOOO]

what really makes this forum exhausting from time to time is your constant need to convince everyone that your opinion is the right one. And your habit of putting every careless word under the microscope.
there are many friendly ways to make a point

I almost take this as a compliment from someone as pedantic as yourself. Remember the saddle rails ?

Details matter and many times forums are flooded with incorrect information from people who post “facts” after a brief google, not fully understanding the misinformation they’re posting.
Im not driven by a need to be “right” I’m happy to learn from reliable sources, but I’m also happy to call out BS when I see it.