Author Topic: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)  (Read 1293546 times)

KRoser

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2325 on: May 29, 2026, 12:11:33 AM »
STEGPB: Computer mount comes as standard with handlebars it is pretty good computer mount, but if you have small bike computer it is a bit long, that is a difference in that 3d printed one it is a bit shorter for garmin 5xx.

MarioCanario

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2326 on: May 29, 2026, 01:13:29 AM »
Hey!

So I’ve finally been able to finish to build my LCR018 (I will upload pictures next week), but I have an issue : the saddle keep sliding to the back (I’m not talking about the sea tube, I don’t have any problem with that). Do you know if I should torque more the 2 saddle screws or add carbon paste to avoid that ?

Maybe I’ve done something wrong who knows
Thank you

If setup correctly. Tighten it, so it holds steady. Carbon paste is not a good idea here,
since its metal on carbon.

Serge_K

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2327 on: May 29, 2026, 01:32:42 AM »
Hey!

So I’ve finally been able to finish to build my LCR018 (I will upload pictures next week), but I have an issue : the saddle keep sliding to the back (I’m not talking about the sea tube, I don’t have any problem with that). Do you know if I should torque more the 2 saddle screws or add carbon paste to avoid that ?

Maybe I’ve done something wrong who knows
Thank you

Yes to both. If the saddle rails are carbon, don't overdo it and obviously use a torque wrench. If it's metal, you can go to town.

POTOOOOOOOO

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2328 on: May 29, 2026, 01:34:14 AM »
If setup correctly. Tighten it, so it holds steady. Carbon paste is not a good idea here,
since its metal on carbon.

Please explain why you shouldn’t use carbon grease between carbon and metal?

According to most manufacturers, this is exactly where it should be used.


As for the saddle clamp. Just use the correct torque and it’ll be fine.

Note - carbon rails are solid compressed fibres. A steel or Ti bolt would snap before the torque is high enough to crush rail. (with this design of clamp)
I’ve tested it 🤓 but stick to the torque recommendation as it doesn’t need to be higher than this.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2026, 01:46:33 AM by POTOOOOOOOO »

Shayzzz

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2329 on: May 29, 2026, 05:43:05 AM »
Yes to both. If the saddle rails are carbon, don't overdo it and obviously use a torque wrench. If it's metal, you can go to town.

If setup correctly. Tighten it, so it holds steady. Carbon paste is not a good idea here,
since its metal on carbon.

Thanks for your answers. There are two small metal plates with teeth where you screw it in—do these plates have a specific orientation? Maybe that's it.
How did you manage to use a torque wrench here? It won't fit for me, so I have to do it by hand.

JensenMacD

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2330 on: May 29, 2026, 06:19:27 AM »
Noooo, first dog of a bike @ Nero Show.

Does it come with computer mount, or do I have to add it explicitly to the order? Or should I get the 3D printed one recommended on page 73?

I have the stock mount, the titanium and the 3D print mount. I prefer the shorter 3D mount. Looks better imo and was also the lightest.

MarioCanario

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2331 on: May 29, 2026, 07:50:18 AM »
Please explain why you shouldn’t use carbon grease between carbon and metal?

According to most manufacturers, this is exactly where it should be used.


As for the saddle clamp. Just use the correct torque and it’ll be fine.

Note - carbon rails are solid compressed fibres. A steel or Ti bolt would snap before the torque is high enough to crush rail. (with this design of clamp)
I’ve tested it 🤓 but stick to the torque recommendation as it doesn’t need to be higher than this.
Sorry for my hasty reply earlier. I meant, carbon fricton paste shouldn't be applied between the metal saddle clamp here and the carbon seat post head.

We had this discussion started in our club recently regarding a Trek Madone, where actually no carbon paste is recommended in the seat post area. And a comrad had a creaking saddle because of carbon paste, as it turned out.

And specifically as we checked many of the major brands and their manuals actually do not state that carbon paste should be used in the saddle clamp area of a carbon seatpost. manufacturer instructions typically only recommend thin layers of carbon paste for the seatpost-to-frame interface, while the saddle clamp area is only specified with torque values. Our decorated bike mechs stated that greased bolts of the saddle clamps threads are of more importance. And the metal to carbon area should be dry and clean (isopropanol) before saddle is mounted.
 
But thats just my 5 cents on this & others might disagree ;D
« Last Edit: May 29, 2026, 08:00:28 AM by MarioCanario »

POTOOOOOOOO

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2332 on: May 29, 2026, 08:00:31 AM »
That style of seatpost is possibly the worst ever designed. I had an Envy version and it was utterly crap.
I can understand them not wanting carbon grease on it.


MarioCanario

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2333 on: May 29, 2026, 08:05:06 AM »
agreed

jksu

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2334 on: May 29, 2026, 10:15:39 AM »
i'm still waiting to receive mine but it sounds like even V2 doors are still coming off.  i just emailed to ask if there's a V3.  is there a "best practice" to keep the door on?  loctite the bolt?  ghetto, but tape or coating of nail polish near the little metal nub to provide more resistance?

i agree they should've had it in the down position by default and probably would solve everything and maybe V3 will have that.  i just don't know if my frame will include V3 since i ordered 6 weeks ago. or should i order an backup door in case it comes off?  i didn't bother after i heard there was a V2 and figured i'd be fine.

have to say, it's these little things that give pause to ordering from a chinese brand.  if they could just nail these little things down, it's really a no brainer to buy from them.

bsharp77

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2335 on: May 29, 2026, 10:30:55 AM »
i'm still waiting to receive mine but it sounds like even V2 doors are still coming off.  i just emailed to ask if there's a V3.  is there a "best practice" to keep the door on?  loctite the bolt?  ghetto, but tape or coating of nail polish near the little metal nub to provide more resistance?

i agree they should've had it in the down position by default and probably would solve everything and maybe V3 will have that.  i just don't know if my frame will include V3 since i ordered 6 weeks ago. or should i order an backup door in case it comes off?  i didn't bother after i heard there was a V2 and figured i'd be fine.

have to say, it's these little things that give pause to ordering from a chinese brand.  if they could just nail these little things down, it's really a no brainer to buy from them.

Yes V3 looks like it works with gravity which is a relief.
I’ve put loctite on the v2 bolt which makes a big difference, also foam on the top edge makes a big difference too - although as it compresses over time the looseness will come back, so the bolt is the  priority.

It definitely should be sorted before leaving the factory now - email to make sure as the v3 requires removing the currently riveted holder at the top and replacing it - Carol sent me a photo of the revised plate. She will send me one after I said I’ll have a go at re-riveting it myself.

In terms of service and quality, I’ve had bigger problems with much bigger brands. Fair play to Light Carbon for actually following up and revising designs and trying to solve problems - they don’t ghost you, so a big thumbs up. Considering the price,l and the newness of the frame, you’ve got to give them some leeway here. Don’t come in expecting western service levels on a bike at a quarter of the price it probably would be if you were paying like for like here (I’m looking at you Cervelo Caledonia).

I would have no hesitation in ordering from them again, and in fact I’m 99% certain to put a preorder in for the LCR020 as soon as details are released.

JensenMacD

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2336 on: May 29, 2026, 11:24:32 AM »
On the cover plate, I wonder if there is more at play than just the door. I have not had a single issue with my door. I did as precaution tighten the bolt but beyond that, it has not budged a mm when on the road. Smooth or rough road, it has been solid. I just got my gravel wheels setup, so I will see if things change.

I wonder if it has to do more with the tolerance of the door fitting to the frame. Same way some people need the thin plastic headset spacer and others don't. Just little tolerances and this one has a bigger impact?

AdmiralAckbar

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2337 on: May 29, 2026, 12:23:52 PM »
Hello all,

Planning on ordering the frame in raw carbon with glossy clear coat. I want the LC logo in shiny silver. When I asked about this finish Chloe at LC told me that she can provide me with a sticker but I need to apply it. If I wanted them to apply it it was an 250$ extra. Was it the same for you guys ? For me there is 2 drawbacks if I do it myself : I fear I will be not properly apply it and also it will be above the clear coat.

What do you think ?
« Last Edit: May 29, 2026, 12:34:39 PM by AdmiralAckbar »

2wheeledbarbie

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2338 on: May 29, 2026, 01:50:36 PM »

We had this discussion started in our club recently regarding a Trek Madone, where actually no carbon paste is recommended in the seat post area. And a comrad had a creaking saddle because of carbon paste, as it turned out.

Dirt causes creaking from the saddle rails. Very common with mountain bikes.  The paste will attract the dirt. 

Re: Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)
« Reply #2339 on: May 29, 2026, 03:11:00 PM »
finally got mine to ride. trying 48 chainring and 33-10 rear. wide crankset. 1x12 gearing and now the chain line is a bit wrong. I would now like a 44 chainring with 3mm offsets. does anyone have any tips on where to find one with 107 bcd. the bike now weight 7.7kg
-sram rival brakes/levers
 -sram rival rear derailleur
-sram red wide crank
-sram halo powermeter
-coldix cassette 10-33
 -lightcarbon wheelset
-onirii carbon pedals
-aliexpress carbon saddle
-shimano ultegra rotors
-vittoria rubino 34mm
-sram force flat top chain
-carbon bottle gace

the paint is the same as in the advertising pictures on the start page