Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[RiP]

So this is a known problem with Wheeltop/UDH/13x? My bad, I just assumed that if it clears 12x, it should work in 13x, FML... 

But thanks for the heads up!

Thanks, I may take your advice and open a dedicated topic with this problem, but again, I wanted to know if anyone has this Wheeltop GeX+13x cassete combo working on a LCR018 frame, and this is the LCR018 frame...

Regarding your adjustment comments, those don't seem to be the problem, as I hope you can see from the pictures I attached, the chain can't physically fit the space on the 10 tooth cog without rubbing against the UDH. It's an available width on that lower cog problem, not adjustment of chainlenght or b-screw, it seems to me. Maybe this combo is just not possible, I start to believe...

But then again, if it's indeed a spacing problem with the UDH in 13x speed, it should still happen regardless of the rear derailleur used, right?

Anyone here running 1x13 on this frame?

[bastianb]

Ok, so I need some help with a 1x13 setup on my LCR018 frame... 

Context: I was using a SRAM 1x12 cassette without any problems with a Wheeltop GeX groupset. A short while ago, I decided to upgrade to 1x13, so, taking advantage of the GeX ability to adapt to different cassettes, I got a SRAM Rival XPLR 10-46 13 speed cassette and compatible flattop chain. Changed the cassette on the wheelset, adjusted derailleur limiting screws, went to the Wheeltop app, set the derailleur to 13 speeds (instead of the 12 it was on) and started adjusting/reindexing the gears. From the 46 tooth cog to the 11 tooth I have 12 speeds running smoothly, perfetly indexed, but I couldn't get it to shift to the lowest 10 tooth cog. Initialy I though it was just bad adjustment of the lower limiting screw on the derailleur, but after some fidling, I still wouldn't shift the lower, or, it would, but only for a fraction of a second, going up again to the 11 tooth cog. That was when I started to notice that the UDH piece had some scruff marks on it's inner side, facing the cassette. It was then clear to me that the chain was rubbing against the inner face of the UDH, in 2 spots, relative to the axle, on the upper and bottom parts. At first I thought this must be due to some problem with the rear hub/freehub body, but I already tried other 2 rear wheels from different wheelsets (3 in total) and the problem remains. It seemed to me there was simply no space/enough gap between the included UDH and the limit of the cassette for the chain to clear and run on the 10 tooth cog. Has I have an extra regular UDH laying around (not this ultra-light version that LC ships with the frame), I took the original out and tried that one, and it only got worse, as with the normal UDH it seems I have even less gap between the UDH inner face and the cassette, like 1mm less! 

So, I seems to me it's not a rear hub/freehub problem, nor a UDH problem, so what, is it the frame?!?

I attached some pictures below to show the problem I'm describing.

I guess some of you here are running 1x13 speed cassettes on this frame, so this should be possible for me too!

Please share your thoughts and ideias, I'd appreciate some help!

Many thanks.

But you use a XDR Freehub? Because a 13s cassette can’t fit on a xd freehub, because the 13th cog will sit too near to the chainstay. Around 1.85mm i guess is the difference.

[kam]

Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?

As the reply next to your question, I also use the XMCS 26mm internal wheels on my LCR as seen here: https://www.instagram.com/p/DaQ0y6LiH-B/ paired with Pirelli P Zero Road 35mm. Think this width makes absolute sense given the LCR's clearance + allroad/comfort characteristics. This combo comes out at exactly 35mm with the wheels 33-35mm external width.

[kam]

mine was really good until I actually bought the frame and wheels and is now patchy.

Same. In contrast to other replies here, they first wanted to fully charge me for the upgraded storage lid and seatpost plus shipping to now ignoring my request for a seatpost warranty upgrade consideration. Even with 10Nm torque and carbon paste it slips to the point where it creaks under load. Really hope we can still sort this out together.

Edit: Today I got a reply. "Remove your seapost, take some photos of the anti-slip beads, and the serial number on the bottom of the frame". Not the friendliest but at least a reply (lurking, LC?). After viewing some Youtube videos linked here and following suggestions, I wrapped isolation band around the seatpost. This seems to make it wide enough to not have play anymore. Given the creaking was still there I went for the obvious parts and indeed the bottom bracket was causing it. Given a replacement + the isolated seatpost the bike is now fully functional again and adhering to the desired quality so I will not need the replacement - that is positive! The whole treatment still leaves a bad taste behind...

[JensenMacD]

Same. In contrast to other replies here, they first wanted to fully charge me for the upgraded storage lid and seatpost plus shipping to now ignoring my request for a seatpost warranty upgrade consideration. Even with 10Nm torque and carbon paste it slips to the point where it creaks under load. Really hope we can still sort this out together.

That is weird, I personally have had nothing but great support from LC (Chloe). From when my frame arrived with chipped paint from the shipping company and asking for a free v3 replacement door. My only "complaint" is the response times can be drawn out because of time zones but I cannot fault them for that. V3 door has not arrived yet, so I cannot comment on how well it works.

Even last week, she was quick to respond when I placed an order for a 0 offset seat post and a new bar.

On a side note, maybe worth trying to solve the seatpost issue as a short term solution. To make sure I had no issues when building my frame, I put a small piece of protective film on the two sides of the post. Just enough to help give it a bit more size. My post slides in and out without issues but clamps tight.

[RiP]

But you use a XDR Freehub? Because a 13s cassette can’t fit on a xd freehub, because the 13th cog will sit too near to the chainstay. Around 1.85mm i guess is the difference.

Yes, all 3 rear wheels I tested have XDR freehub body…

[UT801]

Thanks for checking! But I wanted to know the clearance for sram 2x. I like your bike!

I'm getting 9.2 mm from the tire to the battery, which seems to be the closest point. The end of my caliper wants to hit the rim, so it's tough to measure several spots accurately.  This is on the 30mm Pirelli's.

[Croonci]

Has anyone found a fitting Frame Bag for the LCR018-D? I've got the 58cm frame and the space of the inside headtube is ~10cm long. Great geometry for me but hard to find a fitting frame bag. My old cyclite frame bag looks ridiculous as there is a empty space of almost 5cm to the attachment strap on the downtube.

[2JPW]

Tailfin bags are brilliant.  Not cheap, but exceptionally well made and have non slip.mounting points and reinforced structure so that the bags hold their shape.
You can print out a template and try different sizes to decide which is best:
https://www.tailfin.cc/product/frame-bags/half-frame-bag/?v=7885444af42e

[J89eu]

What is the price of this rim?

Sorry, they didn't give me an itemised cost but for a full wheelset I got the following number:
C52DB-RD923-45C-Ray, weight 1380g, price is USD$,577/pair to UK by EMS Express. Ratchet 36T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.
C53DB-RD923-45C-Ray, WEIGHT 1332G, price is USD$598/pair to UK by EMS Express, Ratchet 54T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.

[Kbfore]

Sorry, they didn't give me an itemised cost but for a full wheelset I got the following number:
C52DB-RD923-45C-Ray, weight 1380g, price is USD$,577/pair to UK by EMS Express. Ratchet 36T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.
C53DB-RD923-45C-Ray, WEIGHT 1332G, price is USD$598/pair to UK by EMS Express, Ratchet 54T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.

Thanks. Has anyone got a set of Light Carbon wheels with DT Swiss hub?

[2wheeledbarbie]

Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?

running 23 mm with 30mm tyres

[jksu]

sorry to hear you had a bad experience.  having annoying noise/clicks on what is a new anything is always annoying.

i hope jim or whoever sees this post and can follow-up with your rep and provide some feedback.  it could be language/cultural issue (being a bit too direct, without adding the niceties of apologizing for the inconvenience etc) that would smooth things over a bit better.  and definitely think it's the right thing for LC to just ship you the improved v3 storage door, since the initial ones clearly were inadequately designed to meet the needs of every day riding.

that being said, i read all the posts prior to my order, and planned to do the 3M tape hack to prevent seatpost slip.  it seems to be a common issue for many manufacturers with aero seatposts.  i was happy to see my seatpost already had the grip surface.  greasing the seatpost clamp pieces (to ensure smooth engagement), carbon paste on the post, and an extra 1-2nm of tightening seems to be working for me without any additional tape for now.

i had terrible saddle slip on my gravel bike using litespeed's titanium seatpost that uses and enve saddle rail clamp mechanism. that thing is horrible.  slip city without torquing way above spec and needing to re-tighten after every ride. was happy when i moved on to a lighter and more comfortable ergon suspension post that held the saddle without crazy efforts.

hope you're enjoying the bike now that your issues are resolved.

Same. In contrast to other replies here, they first wanted to fully charge me for the upgraded storage lid and seatpost plus shipping to now ignoring my request for a seatpost warranty upgrade consideration. Even with 10Nm torque and carbon paste it slips to the point where it creaks under load. Really hope we can still sort this out together.

Edit: Today I got a reply. "Remove your seapost, take some photos of the anti-slip beads, and the serial number on the bottom of the frame". Not the friendliest but at least a reply (lurking, LC?). After viewing some Youtube videos linked here and following suggestions, I wrapped isolation band around the seatpost. This seems to make it wide enough to not have play anymore. Given the creaking was still there I went for the obvious parts and indeed the bottom bracket was causing it. Given a replacement + the isolated seatpost the bike is now fully functional again and adhering to the desired quality so I will not need the replacement - that is positive! The whole treatment still leaves a bad taste behind...

[flix]

Hey everyone,

I wrote a while back about having some issues with my frame, a crack on the top tube (likely from shipping) that I unfortunately only noticed during my first ride after finishing the build.

I'm happy to give a quick update: I contacted Light Carbon, and on June 11th, they confirmed they will provide a free replacement frame (excluding handlebar, fork, and seat post), complete with the custom paint job. They are also covering all shipping costs. Massive props to their customer service for handling it so well.

A bit off topic, but while waiting for the new frame to arrive, I’m looking for a new wheelset to pair with it. I want to keep the build looking clean, so I'll be opting for a matte UD finish with no decals.

I’ve been eyeing a 45mm front / 60mm rear staggered setup from Serenade: serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html.
To give you some context on how I will use them, I will mostly be running 30mm road tires for summer, but the wheels should also allow for 35-38mm gravel tires. I am looking for a setup that is reasonably light and snappy without sacrificing flat-road aero, especially since I mostly ride flat roads and only ride hills on vacations.

Do you think this configuration makes sense for an aero frame, or should I consider other alternatives in the sub 700€ price bracket? What wheels are you guys running on your builds, and are you happy with them?
Serenade seems to have a good price performance ratio, but I am open to other suggestions.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

I’ve been eyeing a 45mm front / 60mm rear staggered setup from Serenade: serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html.

To give you some context on how I will use them, I will mostly be running 30mm road tires for summer, but the wheels should also allow for 35-38mm gravel tires. I am looking for a setup that is reasonably light and snappy without sacrificing flat-road aero, especially since I mostly ride flat roads and only ride hills on vacations.

If you want something aero, and will use 30mm tyres then these are far too narrow.
If you want to use gravel tyres then they’ll probably not be aero on any rims so I’d concentrate your efforts towards the 30mm road setting.


There are absolutely tones of options for 25-26 internal wheels with wider external measurements which would be a much better fit and also offer some aero befit