Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[JensenMacD]

Thanks for this (and the others who responded). Yeah, from what I'm hearing the 50cm is the size to go with.

It's still perplexing because the geometry of the 52cm is clearly closer - on paper at least - to the Synapse 51cm and the Trek Domane medium.

LCR018-D 50: ~12 mm lower and 5 mm shorter than Synapse 51
LCR018-D 52: ~2 mm taller and 1 mm longer than Synapse 51

But real world experience trumps numbers. But I've hacked my Aethos (528 factory stack) to a 570+ stack with spacers and a 17 degree stem. My entire goal with a new frame is get into a more upright position without a massive spacer tower and silly 17 degree stem. On paper at least the 50cm just doesn't do that quite as well.

Find a bike fitter local to you and see what they say. I had a bike fit, 172cm and went for size 50.

I think you need to look at it from the whole build. Consider if you have a huge stack of spacers, you reach is a lot less than on paper... Lots of assumptions here but its to get the point across regarding the aethos. Comparing a 100mm -7 stem with 20mm of spacer (pretty normal) to a 100mm +17 stem with 40mm of spacer (my guess to get 570+ stack) on a 72.5* headtube. The reach is 22mm shorter and 57.5mm higher with the +17 stem. You can't just look at individual numbers but the whole system.

If you used a bike you adapted to fit as your baseline, you could end of with a stem way too looooooooooooong by accident.

How many spacers, head tube angle and stem angle/length is on the synapse? Are you factoring in the LCR018 upper bearing cover adds 10mm? Did you consider the bar reach itself from where the stem ends to the shifter? There are many factors to consider beyond just the stack and reach of the frame.

The 52 may be correct, once you account for everything. It may solidify the 50 is correct. Also if you are going for more stack, consider the new HBR20 with 30mm of stack to the bar when ordering the LCR018. If you are not in a rush to get the frame. I think the HBR20 is supposed to be ready at the end of the year.

What bike do you use the most, how is it setup, what do you want to change with the LCR018. Asnwer those questions, then start to compare all the numbers together.

[Indyrunner03]

I finished the build of my LCR018-D a few weeks ago (picture is from a right after I got done but before I got bar tape on).  Finally had a chance to get out for a ride this morning.  I was only able to get out for a couple hours but what a fun bike.  I’m used to riding an Aethos that’s extremely light but is also a climbing bike while I live in a pancake flat part of the US (600ft of elevation of ~43mi this morning).  The main differences I could feel are:
1) In the liminal spaces between getting to speed and maintaining speed.  Aethos faster to get to speed and LCR better at maintaining speed especially in a draft
2) LCR is a significantly comfier ride - I run 28s on the Aethos and 30s on the LCR which accounts for a lot (same wheels for both)
3) Decents (for what it’s worth here) and turns felt crisper/easier on the LCR

Also, this was my first bike build even though I’m comfortable with regular bike maintenance.  Definitely a fun process but, man, getting a T47i to torque was not fun.  Everything else was pretty straightforward.  I can full build specs if anyone is interested.

[bastianb]

Your build looks great. I finished the build for a friend a few weeks ago, too. He is really happy with it and I was surprised how well the frame was made. I attached a pic. But I agree, to torque the BB is difficult with the super small flank to put the tool.

[andrewbikes]

I finished the build of my LCR018-D a few weeks ago (picture is from a right after I got done but before I got bar tape on).  Finally had a chance to get out for a ride this morning.  I was only able to get out for a couple hours but what a fun bike.  I’m used to riding an Aethos that’s extremely light but is also a climbing bike while I live in a pancake flat part of the US (600ft of elevation of ~43mi this morning).  The main differences I could feel are:
1) In the liminal spaces between getting to speed and maintaining speed.  Aethos faster to get to speed and LCR better at maintaining speed especially in a draft
2) LCR is a significantly comfier ride - I run 28s on the Aethos and 30s on the LCR which accounts for a lot (same wheels for both)
3) Decents (for what it’s worth here) and turns felt crisper/easier on the LCR

Also, this was my first bike build even though I’m comfortable with regular bike maintenance.  Definitely a fun process but, man, getting a T47i to torque was not fun.  Everything else was pretty straightforward.  I can full build specs if anyone is interested.

Any tips on how you got the BB to the right torque? I ended up just getting it as tight as possible and it's not making any noises atm but i'd love to go back and recheck the torque.

[BeR]

Any tips on how you got the BB to the right torque? I ended up just getting it as tight as possible and it's not making any noises atm but i'd love to go back and recheck the torque.

I use a tool like this. No problem at all.

[J89eu]

I've now put about 160km on my LCR018-D. So far so good, enjoying the 165mm cranks. MyVelotFit seems happy with my setup and I intend to throw on another few hundred KM before booking in for a proper bike fit. Happy with the 165mm cranks. Bike feels fast, comfortable and stable. My first build and I'm very happy. I have already dropped it a few times (doh!) so there's a few marks on the paint but it is what it is. I'd be a lot more upset if it was a traditionally branded frame considering the price difference!

[Indyrunner03]

I use a tool like this. No problem at all.

I wish I had bought a tool like before I started on the build.  I got mine up to torque using just my big torque wrench but it was NOT easy.  I did, however, buy a similar tool for maintenance purposes, though.

[vietmunki]

Found this short video

https://youtu.be/POWe9ZmnIcc?si=QoYqm-tbJhVAb7xw

[ChocoLateBN]

Hi all, this might be a bit of a long shot and a little off-topic but I had a question regarding the seat post shape.

I'm finally getting around to buying a radar - a Magene L508 paired with the KOM Cycling Garmin Mount as suggested by GPLama. I currently have a round seat post on my Cannondale but am awaiting an LCG-072-D. I'm wondering if anyone has this specific mount and if there were any issues with it on the LCR-018's seat post.

[brandon08]

I finished the build of my LCR018-D a few weeks ago (picture is from a right after I got done but before I got bar tape on).  Finally had a chance to get out for a ride this morning.  I was only able to get out for a couple hours but what a fun bike.  I’m used to riding an Aethos that’s extremely light but is also a climbing bike while I live in a pancake flat part of the US (600ft of elevation of ~43mi this morning).  The main differences I could feel are:
1) In the liminal spaces between getting to speed and maintaining speed.  Aethos faster to get to speed and LCR better at maintaining speed especially in a draft
2) LCR is a significantly comfier ride - I run 28s on the Aethos and 30s on the LCR which accounts for a lot (same wheels for both)
3) Decents (for what it’s worth here) and turns felt crisper/easier on the LCR

Also, this was my first bike build even though I’m comfortable with regular bike maintenance.  Definitely a fun process but, man, getting a T47i to torque was not fun.  Everything else was pretty straightforward.  I can full build specs if anyone is interested.

I'm also currently riding an Aethos - 2022, 52cm with 40mm spacer tower and ugly 17 degree stem pointed up. I like it now well enough, but this is a hack to get to a riding position I can tolerate since the Aethos was just way too aggressive for me.

Mind if I ask what size LCR018 you got, your height and what length stem you chose?

[brandon08]

The 52 may be correct, once you account for everything. It may solidify the 50 is correct. Also if you are going for more stack, consider the new HBR20 with 30mm of stack to the bar when ordering the LCR018. If you are not in a rush to get the frame. I think the HBR20 is supposed to be ready at the end of the year.

I ran the numbers through a few AI chatbots, which are very good at this (it's just numbers), and accounting for the spacer tower and my ugly 17 degree stem, the 52cm LCR018 is clearly the closer match to endurance frames I know fit me and are recommended for riders my height. Does that mean it's the right one? I don't know. I'd still need to add spacers to get to the position I'm most comfortable in. The coming HBR20 would probably get the job done. I suspect it will look like this one.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812977664786.html

I still find it perplexing that the height recommendations are so different despite the fact that the 51cm Synapse and 52cm LCR018 are about as close as two frames can get from two different manufacturers.

Anyway, thanks everyone for your thoughtful response to my question.

[GreyRacer]

Hi all, this might be a bit of a long shot and a little off-topic but I had a question regarding the seat post shape.

I'm finally getting around to buying a radar - a Magene L508 paired with the KOM Cycling Garmin Mount as suggested by GPLama. I currently have a round seat post on my Cannondale but am awaiting an LCG-072-D. I'm wondering if anyone has this specific mount and if there were any issues with it on the LCR-018's seat post.

My W100 bike radar has a GoPro mount. The mount for round seatpost broke on the lcr. So I switched to the one designed for the seat rails, and it sits well there. No reason to mount the radar on the seatpost. You don't need a saddle bag. I even have my SKS 18in1 (?) tool inside the frame. Inside the door only, can not put it in bag, and it can not slide around.

[GreyRacer]

The serial number sticker under my bottom bracket of my LCR018-D has fallen off. Does anyone know if the serial number is on the frame somewhere besides that sticker? I didn't see one during assembly but I'm hoping that I just missed it.

I know there's a number on the fork steerer tube that seems more permanently affixed under some kind of coating but I believe it different from the frame number.

Thankfully, my sticker fell off while the bike was in the house so I still have it, although the numbers are faded and some can no longer be made out.

I am located in Denmark, so I am required by law to get a danish frame number sticker from the police, which is desgined to stay on. And it is free.

[bakmiekasih]

Hello 👋
This is my first post ever in chinertown! Ive been a silent reader these past couple months, but recently decided to participate because of my fascination towards this frame.

I am a beginner cyclist, just finished my first 1500km on a gravel frame (polygon tambora g4) which i use daily as commuting or long ride on asphalt since i bought it on May this year.

 Considering this, i was leaning towards this frame because i think it will suit me more on my 1000m elevation long rides. I feel like i want a light road bike with high stack and forgiving reach, the transition from my current bike would be nice.

I only have one bike, and I still want to run my 1x11 shimano cues for its simplicity, and 40mm deep aero carbon wheels with 35c gp5000 as tr on this frame. So far, how do you guys think about this set up? Im 175, cm height with 83,5 cm inseam, short torso but relatively long legs and arms. Im thinking I'd go with their size 50.

And by the way, i have left them a message from their website, but i have no answer until now. Do you guys know what is the best method to contact them for purchase? I hope they ship to Indonesia.

Glad to finally post here, this is my first time participating in an online forum haha. Have a good day!

[shuhockey]

"please note that our factory will be closed for the National Day holiday from October 1st to October 7th" Had this response last week, when I asked for a delivery update.